Suggestions on audio setup?

[dusty2221]

You could also go a little more fancy with a vent like this
http://www.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart/home.php?cat=253

[EarmarkMarine]

There are always problems with installing subs in the port locker. Obviously the thick and dense seat plus the solid surrounding structure attenuates alot of the bass output. Also the large volume of the compartment plus the adjoining gunnel cavities make for an expansive and very acoustically compliant displacement. As a result alot of energy is stored and released. Think of a giant acoustic capacitor that has its own phasing impact. As a result the reflex radiation from the compartment is not going to be in phase with the direct radiation from the woofer as both reach the vent. And there is not alot of impetus for the bass radiation to flow from a huge and compliant compartment through a small and resistive vent. The phasing issue makes it really difficult to have bass that is more than indiscriminant in its tonal construction. Its really hard to have a coherent and seamless midbass transition with the in-boat coaxials. I view this as more of an issue than the attenuation affect.
So the best way to help the situation is to use a large vent that has an opening that approaches or is equal to the collective surface area of the woofers...more in the case of bass-reflex. Or, just open the observers seat.
When and if the particular boat gives you the option of a woofer/enclosure under the driver's helm console, I always prefer this even if I have to downsize the woofer(s). In my opinion the sound quality benefits far exceed the loss in 'rumble'.
Do we install subs in the port locker? All the time. Nautiques and several other boats do not have a better alternative.
If you are going to do it then a very large vent in the pass-through wall will do wonders. You can trim the vent in a vinyl-clad bolster that ties in with the boat well.

David
Earmark Marine

[Sea N' Things]

Stupid question, why install subs in a closure if air volume is a good thing?

[EarmarkMarine]

All subwoofers must have an enclosure of some type because they require front to rear acoustic isolation.
At any point the front excursion and pressure is the polar opposite of the rear, as in 'push' or pull', 'compress' or 'rarify'. If allowed to meet the front and rear radiation cancels. The condition would also nullify any level of acoustical damping or control.

David
Earmark Marine

[New Guy]

I have 2 10" L7's powered off a 700.5 (at least until I put the 1000.1 in) and they sound great. Mine are dual 2 ohm, wired series parallel to show the amp 2 ohms.

Ian how does the amp do for power? I have on 10" L5 dual 2ohm and I was thinking of adding a second. You must have the sub vc wired in series then the two subs wired in parallel?

[newty]

I'm thinking of doing something on the order of this http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showt...highlight=bass

But on a smaller scale more like this but w/o the speaker and more of an oval.

[EarmarkMarine]

Even though we did the second one, I like the first approach and size of Grant's vent for a subwoofer application. You really need all the surface area that you can manage.

David
Earmark Marine

[newty]

Thanks David nice job btw. Now if I can just remember where I put my balls so I can cut a giant hole in the walk-thru.

[Razzman]

Thanks David nice job btw. Now if I can just remember where I put my balls so I can cut a giant hole in the walk-thru.

Just yank real hard!

I don't think you can pull that one off on that scale. You'll have to take into account the vertical aluminum deck stiffener rails inside each wall and they won't let you make a cutout like that. Now you could get creative and do a vertical type between the rail and interior sub wall or somethng similar. I would be real hesitant to remove rails or sub walls lest it weaken the structure and allow the window to spread.

[EarmarkMarine]

Razzman,
I agree with you. If you use a stainless steel or other type of mesh or screen to visually conceal the remaining vertical structural members you might be able to satisfy both objectives. Nothing is worth compromising the structural integrity of the boat. A split but sturdy aluminum bolt-thru picture frame around the interior can also fully restore any panel strength.

David
Earmark Marine