Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 27 of 27
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    7,692

    Default

    You are on your way, sounds like a good plan to me.
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Well that's cool to see you own work getting passed around the internet

    This works great when a standard sac doesn't have enough fittings, such as if you wanted to do a dual-pump system or if the sac's ports just aren't in the best spot for your application once the sac is in an filled.

    The Flow-Rite fittings come in both .75 and 1 inch 90* elbow and straight. Its an easy mod that can be done to any ballast sac, but there are a couple of tricks I have learned with the more I've done.

    Adhesive: Rubber cement. Anything that's silicone based will stay pliable and can allow the fitting to slip under load.

    Hole size: Round and I tend to find it requires about .125" dia larger then the dia of the threaded portion of the fitting for the flange to fit through.

    Having the sac at room temp, or even warmed a little with a hair drier or heatgun on low. This helps to allow the sac to stretch so flange will slip through. I always test fit before applying the adhesive.

    I like to inflate the sac while working on it. Some air will escape once the hole is cut, but it still make working easier then when done on a flat sac.

    Use a small but sharp razor knife.

    When you are ready to install the fitting, lay both the fitting and the flanged nut clamping surface up. Apply the cement to both. Slip the fitting into the hole. While holding it with one hand at the threads, drop the nut over the end of the fitting and start the threads a couple turns. Now move your hand to the end of the fitting and finish threading the nut down until it seats. Turn it hand tight then finish with a pair of slip-joint pliers and turn an additional 1/8 turn.

    Top the sac off with air, cap the fitting with tape, then let it set to allow the cement to cure.

    Let em know if any one has a specific question.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    14,071

    Default

    Good stuff-- thanks. Esp. the tip about heating it up a little bit before the insertion.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV (sold)
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair
    Posts
    8,419

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kaneboats View Post
    Esp. the tip about heating it up a little bit before the insertion.
    Dusty Mom joke teed up for somebody here!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    14,071

    Default

    Nah, that was a sucker pitch-- designed to get someone to take a big swing and miss.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV (sold)
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    7,692

    Default

    MLA, was that your original work from the tige forum and spencers post?

    Thanks for the write up. good stuff.
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Yes it is, thank you. Thats was an 07 22Ve that we pulled the port hard tank and installed a 1K custom sac with dual fill and drain pumps. We reused the factory 700gph pumps, but added 2 extra ports in the sac and installed a pair of 1100 gph pumps for added fill and drain speed.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •