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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    3,034

    Default DIY Shower Install

    I've done a few of these for some folks and did one in my boat. I just finished one up for a buddy and figured I post a how too for ya.
    For reference this is an 06' Moomba LSV.

    As for parts its kinda tough finding all the stuff you need unless you buy the kit from heatercraft.
    I did order the mixing valve with the switch from them for about $75.
    Most of the pvc and standard plumbing parts you can find anywhere. The pressure fit fittings and the tubing you can get from an industrial fittings supplier. The fittings that attatch to the pump and mixing valve can be picked up at West Marine.
    The pump I got from a RV shop. Its just an on demand pump that turns on when the pressure drops well... like an RV.
    For the shower hose I prefer the coiled hose. It doesn't take up much room, can be squished by the fatsacs and bounce back. You can usually find the hose and head as a kit anywhere.
    All together the parts cost about $250. I believe the Kit with everything you need can be purchased through Heater Craft for $350ish?

    Enjoy!

    First I removed the where I will mount the pump and mixing valve.
    Next lay out the two and find the best orientation that best fits the panel.
    Cut a hole for the mixing valve and mount the valve in the panel.
    Mount the pump to the panel.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by newty; 03-06-2012 at 09:46 AM.


    PWI as usual...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    3,034

    Default

    Next thing I did was wire the pump to the switch.
    Plumb the pump suction to the mixed hot cold outlet.
    Add the shower hose to the discharge of the pump.

    Now back into the boat for the water tie-in.
    First locate the impeller and find discharge side hose. Typically its the top hose that runs over to your trans cooler. This will be your cold water supply to the shower.
    Cut out a 2" section and install the fitting leaving the hose clamps loose so you can adjust it once its in place (this is easier done after removing the hose completely).
    I used a 1 1/4" barbed by barbed by 3/4" NPT PVC fitting for my tie-in.
    Next locate the 3/8" brass plug on the drivers side of the engine block about 2" above the oil pan. I believe its a 9/16" so use a socke or box end wrench. if not you will round it off or strip it.
    Remove it and install your valve. You don't have to use a valve but if something were to happen I like knowing I can isolate it.
    This will be the hot water supply to your shower.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by newty; 03-06-2012 at 09:49 AM.


    PWI as usual...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    3,034

    Default

    Install the panel and make the connections. I have red and blue 3/8 air hose so keeping the hot and cold seperated was easy.
    I then fused the switch and got a 12v tie in at the alternator.
    If you guys decide to do one on your boat you'll love it. I'll never have a boat w/o one.
    Super easy install with the exception of finding all the parts. Took me about and hour and a half start to finish.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by newty; 03-06-2012 at 09:51 AM.


    PWI as usual...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Terre Haute, IN
    Posts
    272

    Default

    That looks sweet. I like that place for a install. Don't have to drill any holes in the hull or anything. Pretty nice location. Will have to keep this in mind. Just haven't decided if I want to do this or not. I was trying to decide if I wanted one of these so I took a container of hot water and poured it in my wetsuit. When I poured the hot water in the water just came out the bottom of my wetsuit. So not sure still.
    2006 Mobius LSV

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Quebec City, Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    128

    Default

    good job newty
    ____________
    03 Mobius LSV

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    503

    Default

    Newty, yet again, thanks man! A shower is on my "getting shorter" list of things to do to my boat. I agree, I won't own a boat without one! I have been trying to figure out where to put the pump and mixing valve, and I really like where you put them. NIce and discreet and out of the way!

    Yet again one more mod that didn't require a sewing machine...

    Oh, and just an fyi to the DIYers out there - skidim.com has the Heatercraft setup for 257. So, right along the lines of how much Newty paid to do this. Just an option!

    And one more fyi - skidim.com is running a 10% off promo. It'll hurt, but use the word MALIBU to get it!
    Last edited by squeeg333; 06-25-2010 at 11:59 AM.
    2015 Supra SC400
    08 LSV - Sold
    Go big, or go home.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    929

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by newty View Post
    Install the panel and make the connections. I have red and blue 3/8 air hose so keeping the hot and cold seperated was easy.
    I then fused the switch and got a 12v tie in at the alternator.
    If you guys decide to do one on your boat you'll love it. I'll never have a boat w/o one.
    Super easy install with the exception of finding all the parts. Took me about and hour and a half start to finish.
    Hey Newty!

    I am just about to tackle my shower install and the only part I don't understand is how to fuse the switch and "tie in" at the alternator.

    Could you explain that step in a little more detail?

    Thanks!
    2008 Outback V - gravity III ballasts, perfect pass star gazer, hydraulic wake plate, depth finder, water stainer, rad-a-cage tower, board racks, tower mirror, bimini top, audio package d, graphics package e, appearance package, cockpit & tonneau cover, mooring cover, black stainless rubrail, docking lights, OJ 14.25x14.0 prop.

    Toys: Ronix Viva 136 with Kai bindings, Phase5 Drew Danielo Pro, Straight Line Sumo Sac 750lb, 450lb, 125lb ballast.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    3,034

    Default

    Yea, you just need an inline fuse added to the switch power to protect it and the pump. As far as the tie in, if you look at the alternator there is a 8ga or so orange and and a 8ga black wire that come off the alternator. You just need to run the ground from the pump to the ground side or black post of the alternator (and the switch if its illumnated) and the power side of the switch to the positive of orange side of the alternator. If you are uncomfortable running the power to the alternator you can also run the ground to any bolt on the block for ground and run power to the main battery cable on the starter. The alternator is very close and convenient, and if follow the orange wire, it goes to the starter anyway to charge the batteries.
    If your really worrid about it landing the wires back there, you can always run a set up to the helm buss for ground and power.
    That answer your q's?
    Last edited by newty; 05-17-2011 at 11:58 AM.


    PWI as usual...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    929

    Default

    Great. That info helps.

    Heatercraft sent me the same faceplate you have but with the power switch on the left instead of the right. (not sure why)

    There is nothing marked on the back of the power switch so does it matter where the positive/negative connection is?

    Also why are there 3 terminals on the power switch. What is the 3rd one for?



    2008 Outback V - gravity III ballasts, perfect pass star gazer, hydraulic wake plate, depth finder, water stainer, rad-a-cage tower, board racks, tower mirror, bimini top, audio package d, graphics package e, appearance package, cockpit & tonneau cover, mooring cover, black stainless rubrail, docking lights, OJ 14.25x14.0 prop.

    Toys: Ronix Viva 136 with Kai bindings, Phase5 Drew Danielo Pro, Straight Line Sumo Sac 750lb, 450lb, 125lb ballast.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    3,034

    Default

    Looks good!

    Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk


    PWI as usual...

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