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Thread: Oil and Service
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06-18-2010, 05:39 PM #11Senior Member
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Oh no, that's way wrong. See, the dynosaur juices have a chemical that doesn't react well to the synthetic man-made oil. Basically, without being too technical, the molecules that normally bond at 152 degrees C in synthetic oil will not attach to the free electron of the dyno oil. That reaction doesn't occur until 212 degrees C, which we all know doesn't occur in the Indmar engine unless your boat is at least 9000' in elevation on a standard day. It's all very scientific, you can read more about it on Wikapedia.
Now, none of this applies if you use Exxon or BP oil. See, they treat their oil with a saltwater compound. The sodium chloride additive has been shown to reduce the free radial electron's orbit around the photon enough to allow molecular adhesion at 174 degrees C, which is very acheivable in our boats.
The more you know.1997 MasterCraft 205
2008 Moomba Outback
1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
1992 MasterCraft 205
1999 Malibu Response LX
1987 Marlin Magnum Skier
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06-19-2010, 12:49 AM #12Senior Member
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Your kidding right? I don't think any automobile engines ever reach 413 degrees. They even make blended oils that are both conventional and synthetic. Furthermore, I know people who run synthetic in winter and conventional in summer.
From valvolines site at: http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-...tic-motor-oil/
Is it ok to switch back and forth between regular and synthetic motor oil? I heard this causes leaks? Is this true?
Switching between synthetic and conventional oil does not cause problems. Because the oils are compatible, you can switch back and forth as often as you like.
Also, just read something from an amsoil site: http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chang...ynthetic-oils/
Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.
Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.08 Outback
82 American Skier
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06-19-2010, 09:28 AM #13Senior Member
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Last edited by maxpower220; 06-20-2010 at 10:12 AM.
1997 MasterCraft 205
2008 Moomba Outback
1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
1992 MasterCraft 205
1999 Malibu Response LX
1987 Marlin Magnum Skier
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06-19-2010, 12:37 PM #14
I stick with Rotella 15w40. Inexpensive and easy to find at the local walmart. Meets the oil requirements. I just don't put enough hours on to justify switching to synthetic and the additional cost of synthetic.
2003 Outback, Assault EFI, (6) Polk Audio DB651s, JL Audio M6600 amp, JL Audio M1700 amp, JL Audio 10w6v2 subwoofer
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06-20-2010, 09:21 AM #15
Well I just put the Rotella in. Motor seems to be running pretty good with everything.
2006 Mobius LSV