Irritrol valve help

[csm]

I replaced my orbit valves with the Irritrol 700s, but I can't get them to work. The only way I can get them to fill is to manually open the valve. When it's in the closed position, nothing flows. I pulled the solenoid off and watched it as I flipped the ballast switch, and they seem to be working properly.

I didn't replace the solenoids when I swapped the valves. I thought I read that they were compatible with our current soleniods. Is it possible that a solenoid can still appear to work, but possibly isn't pulling enough current? Anything else I should check?

I've worked through problems with valves in the past, but I've always been able to track down the issue. I'm stuck on this one...

[kaneboats]

Please help if you have the Irritrol valves. I now have two of the Orbit ones that are letting the bags fill even with the switch in the right spot. I was thinking of switching to the Irritrol ones but would like to find out what the deal is.

[cab13367]

csm,

I encoutered the same exact thing except that I used the solenoid that came with my 3/4" Irritrol 700. Mine will only open for a few seconds then close if the manual switch is in the "OFF" position. With the switch in the "ON" position, it lets water flow thru.

I think the problem lies in the fact that the solenoids are 24V whereas our boat's electrical system is 12V. I don't think there's enough current to keep them open.

I am only using one of them, on the fill line to my front bag. Since I'ce upgraded to three fill pumps, the Irritrol is basically acting like a check valve (I have the switch in the "ON" position) which is fine for my set up.

IPV.com supposedly sells 12V solenoids that will work with the Irritrol 700 series valves. You might give them a call.

Al

[VA LSV]

Switched my Orbits to these.
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Pr...5&Show=ExtInfo
Orbit solenoids worked fine on 2 Irritrol valves. The 1 that didn't work was missing the spring so I swapped out all the solenoids to Irritrol. The manual switch unscrews the solenoid so the valve is on all the time. I removed the manual operator since I didn't see where I would have a need for it and just screwed the solenoids into the valve. All work just fine. Both Orbit & Irritrol solenoids are 24 VAC and will work fine on 12 VDC.

[cab13367]

Switched my Orbits to these.
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Pr...5&Show=ExtInfo
Orbit solenoids worked fine on 2 Irritrol valves. The 1 that didn't work was missing the spring so I swapped out all the solenoids to Irritrol. The manual switch unscrews the solenoid so the valve is on all the time. I removed the manual operator since I didn't see where I would have a need for it and just screwed the solenoids into the valve. All work just fine. Both Orbit & Irritrol solenoids are 24 VAC and will work fine on 12 VDC.

va lsv,

I have that exact valve, wired the solenoid to the pump, and it will not stay open. I was told the same thing, that the solenoids are 24 VAC and will work fine on 12 VDC. I think the manual lever does more than just partially unscrew the solenoid. If you look closely, it's got an orifice that lines up with an orifice on the valve if in the "OFF" position, and does not line up with it in the "ON" position. I think that somehow, the lining up of the orifices is what determines if it is closed or open. Sorry if this is all wrong as I don't understand how the valve works or what the solenoid actually does. I should unscrew it and take a look at what happens when I turn the switch on.

But for my application, it is serving the purpose fine so I really have no need to investigate further.

Thanks,

Al

[csm]

So is it possible for a solenoid to lose some of it's power to where it wouldn't fully open the valve, but still look like it's working when it's unhooked from the valve? When I hit the ballast switch, the solenoid arm (or whatever it's called) sucks up like it should, but I'm wondering if it can slowly start to go bad?

[jeilers1]

Try testing with an ohm meter vs the ones that work. They can get weak

[JesseC]

I have run both the 3/4" Irrotrols and the 1" with the 24v solenoids and they operate flawlessly. I was out this weekend and was suprised and how well they worked. No water seeped past them at any speed and they all opened and stayed open as long as I was running the fill pump. The 24v AC is a misprint on their website. When you look at the solenoids they are clearly marked 24v DC. Which is the SAME EXACT solenoids that skiers choice put in the original sprinkler valve setups.

[JesseC]

Which valve did you end up installing?

[csm]

Hopefully the solenoid is the issue. They are the originals, so maybe they've gotten weaker.

I will say that when I manually open the valve, the fill time is a HUGE difference over using the Orbits. I don't have any exact timings, but it has to have cut it in half. Now if I can just get it to be automated....