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Thread: Boat Detailing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    461

    Default Boat Detailing

    So I have some light to moderate oxidation on the black portion of my boat. I have already been over it once with turtle wax rubbing compound from wal mart, then I went over it with Starbrite wax with PTEF. It looks MUCH better after doing that, but I still have some oxidation and ghosting from stickers that I removed. I did not put a full 100% effort into the job because I had never polished or buffed before, so I didnt want to be too aggressive with the compounding. Now that I see how much it helped, I was to do a better job on it this time around.


    I am looking at the 3M imperial compound, it says heavy duty for heavy oxidation. Will this be too much for my needs? I am also considering the 3M color restorer, which says it is for light oxidation. But will this get rid of the sticker ghosts?

    I plan to use one of the above, and follow with 3M Finesse-it 2 glaze. But I have a bottle of Turtle Wax polish, would this be an acceptable substitute?

    After the polish/glaze I will finish it off with a coat of Starbrite wax with PTEF (I like this stuff, but I am open to other recommendations).

    I know this topic has been beat to death, but I want to hear what people are using now! Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Springfield Missouri
    Posts
    3,392

    Default

    My experience with oxidation is it will return maybe weeks, months or a year later. It wasn't until I had a clear coat finish applied that it stopped and it actually looked like a new surface.
    1998 Mobius
    310 HP PCM
    SOLD

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    New Roads, LA
    Posts
    116

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zabooda View Post
    My experience with oxidation is it will return maybe weeks, months or a year later. It wasn't until I had a clear coat finish applied that it stopped and it actually looked like a new surface.
    How much does that run? I was planning to get mine detailed in and out, oxidation removed and all for $450; but if it comes back quick I don't want to waste my money.

    2005 Mobius LSV 5.7 Indmar 325 (carb'd)
    Wet Sounds: SW-650 coaxial speakers [x6] Rev10 tower speakers [x2] SYN4 amp [x2] SYN Micro amp [x1] JL Audio 12W3 [x1]
    Many mods to come...
    Board: '12 Ronix One ATR & '12 Ronix One Danny Harf Bindings
    2007 Toyota Tacoma 4x4: Rough Country 3x2 lift \ 32" Nitto Trail Grapplers \ 18" Incubus wheels

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah
    Posts
    1,699

    Default

    3M makes great stuff, I use it a lot. I would use the LEAST aggressive product first and then check the results. If it wasn't enough you can always go more aggressive. Are you using a random orbital sander or by hand? Using an electric polisher is a HUGE help. this is a good site to get info and tips.

    http://www.premiumboatcare.com/
    Scott
    2021 Craz
    2007 Mobius LSV
    1997 Sea Ray 190

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    461

    Default

    I am using a polisher/sander. Im using the low speed polish setting. Wool pad. Moderate pressure.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Springfield Missouri
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    3,392

    Default

    The boat I had clear coated was a 1979 Glastron Carlson metal flake finish that I had refinished around 1998. I would remove the oxidation each spring and it looked good all year but eventually it was less effective and within a couple of weeks the oxidation would start coming back. It was a closed bow and that area and everything above the rub rail oxidized so I had just that surface clear coated so none of the hull was done. The price wasn't too bad but then I removed all the hardware and prepped the surface.

    You need to see how long the oxidization stays away as for me once a year buffing wasn't too bad especially when getting it out of winterization and getting the boat cleaned up.
    1998 Mobius
    310 HP PCM
    SOLD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    461

    Default

    Yeah I am okay with one or twice a year buff or wax. Ill try the color restorer and see where that gets me. I know it isnt bad enough to need wet sanding.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair
    Posts
    8,419

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    Quote Originally Posted by CookieMonster View Post
    How much does that run? I was planning to get mine detailed in and out, oxidation removed and all for $450; but if it comes back quick I don't want to waste my money.
    I'd drop that $450 and spend my free time on the water

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    New Roads, LA
    Posts
    116

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    Quote Originally Posted by wolfeman131 View Post
    I'd drop that $450 and spend my free time on the water
    Sounds good to me. I hated detailing vehicles for a living and really don't want to miss a weekend on the water to detail the Moomba.

    2005 Mobius LSV 5.7 Indmar 325 (carb'd)
    Wet Sounds: SW-650 coaxial speakers [x6] Rev10 tower speakers [x2] SYN4 amp [x2] SYN Micro amp [x1] JL Audio 12W3 [x1]
    Many mods to come...
    Board: '12 Ronix One ATR & '12 Ronix One Danny Harf Bindings
    2007 Toyota Tacoma 4x4: Rough Country 3x2 lift \ 32" Nitto Trail Grapplers \ 18" Incubus wheels

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    461

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    If I could find someone local I would gladly pay that if they did a good job.

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