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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Appleton
    Posts
    52

    Default Bent Prop Shaft Advice On Removal !?

    I have a bent prop shaft and need to replace it. just wondering if anyone has done it on and XLV before for time frame reference and basic instructions and maybe a few pointers ... please help
    never enough ...
    ------------------------
    2005 Mobius XLV

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    2,291

    Default

    This guy is a helpful guy and make you a good deal on parts.
    I replaced my Outback a few years ago... Mr. Elbert will tell you what tools you have to have and what tools you will be ok without.

    here is a copy of what i posted after I did mine..


    If you don't have parts, order from Cecil at Elberts.com Great help. Their website has a PDF Download that details the info. He also sends a copy with your order. He has several tools that are VERY helpful. Not sure which boat you have, but assuming it is a DD, the two tools he suggests are: 1. Retaining nut socket (shallow 1 1/4" socket..hard to find locally) and Coupling Wrench.. Both are worth their small cost. Also, the socket should fit your prop nut. Make sure you replace the Strut bearings while doing this. He sells them too.
    1. Remove motorcover clamshell (there are two screws at the back of the motor cover that screw into the floor...You'll need a helper to remove the cover with the floor piece attached.

    Follow all the directions on this link:
    http://www.elberts.com/driveshaft.pdf

    Here are the things that aren't in the instructions: After you have unbolted the coupling and removed the 1 1/4" nut, the Moomba Dealer service tech gave me this tip: leave the nut threaded on the tip of the shaft. Take a smaller socket 3/4 or so, and place tightly between the shaft and the coupling on the transmission. I pushed the coupling/shaft back tightly up to the trans coupling and lightly held the socket (a pair of vise grips might come in handy here) . Take a rubber Mallet and knock on the coupling connected to the shaft. This should break the coupling free from the shaft (this is a compression fit and was my first stopping point). Once you have knocked it loose, you can remove the nut and coupling..there will be a keyway key that falls out.

    At this point, you'll realize that even with the prop off, the shaft will not slide out of the back of the strut due to the rudder being in the way.
    I determined that it was easier to remove the strut than the rudder (rudder bolts are under the gas tank) This will take two people too. You'll need one under the boat holding the Allen screws in the strut and another in the boat taking the nuts off. The nuts/screws as well as the strut are sealed with marine sealant. Make sure you have waterproof marine sealant available before reinstalling the strut...this is the messy part.....

    Once you have removed all 6 screws, the shaft will slide out. Be gentle as it is sliding through the rope packing/coupling. (you'll need to order rope packing to as you need to replace it while you are in there.)

    At this point, you have the shaft out and the strut off. Here is the next stonewall....getting the strut bearings out.. There are two options: 1. Get the $120 tool or get a hacksaw...Get the type of hacksaw that is only connected to the handle (in other words, you can slide the saw into the strut bearing. If you'll cut all the way through one side of the strut bearing, but being careful not to go too far into the strut. Once you get each bearing cut, you can slide a long thin screwdriver under the bearing at the cut and bend it out... This will take about 30 minutes and 2 beers.

    Getting the bearings back in will be difficult too as it is as tight a fitting as you'll ever find. Might want to put a little liquid wrench inside the strut before sliding in.. RUBBER MALLET and block of wood to gently tap this in... has to go in slowly and evenly.

    Once you have done this, slide new shaft back in and reinstall the strut bearing. I set a couple of screws enough to hold the shaft/strut for me and then focused on getting sealant in place.

    At this point, I did not have any additional troubles. Engine alignment is important. Mine was still aligned good, but make sure you do this.
    I got all the parts, accessories from Cecil for about $425.. I spent a little more as I had to next day the parts.

    PM and I'll get you a phone number if you have any troubles. I took all day to do it, but knowing how to resolve a couple of issues and making sure I had all tools, supplies mentioned above, would have saved 3-4 hours of running to tool store.

    GOOD LUCK.
    Brad

    2011 Launch 21V Sold... boatless replaced with a Jeep JKUR
    2006 Moomba Mobius LSV sold
    2004 Outback sold

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