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Thread: Alternator Whine
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05-24-2010, 07:46 AM #11
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05-24-2010, 11:27 AM #12
No not at all on the engine. Set it up how you want it. Then if you got a fake a lake you can start the engine to see if you have a whine. You can also just turn on the bower fan, heater, things like that and if the while is there you should hear it.
Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
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05-25-2010, 12:04 AM #13
Got the gains set tonight. Everything seems to be good so far.
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05-25-2010, 11:08 AM #14
In the event that you have noise when you are running, or if you have pops or buzzes from pumps, blowers, fans etc. please let me know. I have a fix we found for a boat builder that works real well. Basically we use a capacitor in parallel with the offending load. This takes the back - EMF or the noise that the load puts on the power wiring and shunts it to ground.
Let us know once you run the boat.
Phil
Kicker
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05-25-2010, 03:21 PM #15
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05-27-2010, 07:27 AM #16
Had the boat out last night and still have a little bit of alternator whine at low volumes. Don't notice it as much at higher volumes. Could my gains be a little high or is this something else?
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05-27-2010, 09:14 AM #17
Generally any whine threw the stereo is a lose or bad ground and the stereo is the most sensitive part and having an amp on it will obviously amp this bad sound.
When you have the boat sitting with the engine off. Can you play the stereo and use all the accessories and have no whine? If you have wine then you will have to track it down to what item you turn on that cases the whine.
If nothing then what amps are you using? Try unplugging one and playing the stereo when you had the whine before. If its there on all the amps when running them one by one then its in the boat. If it goes away at any point then you have a amp with a bad ground, or a floating ground internally in the amp.
This is going to take some work to track down but the bright side is you will really understand your electrical grounding system lol.
Lastly im sure you checked this but just to be sure. Stereo and Amps need to be on a separate battery and grounded to this separate battery. Other wise all your troubleshooting can be a mute point as the whine would be a primary grounding issue.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
[COLOR="#696969"]
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05-27-2010, 02:32 PM #18
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05-27-2010, 03:52 PM #19
I would reccomend it as the stereo can drain a battery pretty fast and the last thing anyone wants is to be stuck on the water with a dead battery.
You can still do all the amp troubleshooting and make sure things are grounded properly. You can even pull your car battery and hook the stereo to it for trouble shooting. The main thing here is lets find that whine. Ive had that whine before and i now its irritating and once you hear it your ears get tuned into it and it even more irritating LOL.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
[COLOR="#696969"]
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06-01-2010, 10:24 AM #20
I have posted this diagram elsewhere, but it never hurts to put it up again.
Whining, pops and ticks are most often caused by the head unit being wired at a different voltage potential with respect to the amp. This is way too common, unfortunately, and it is an easy fix.
See the drawing. When you move the power for the radio to the amp, you remove the voltage potential difference. This eliminates the "vehicle" for the whines, pops and clicks....
The key to understanding all of this is that you want to wire the radio's power wire, (all of it, red, yellow and black) straight to the amplifier's power connections. Any voltage difference, or ground plane difference, (which actually shows up as a voltage on the ground wire}) is eliminated. ADDITIONALLY, there are big filter capacitors just inside most amps, in front of the power supply, and the proximity of these large filter caps can provide a filtering benefit to the radio wiring.
A point to make. This drawings show both a relay that is triggered by the ignition accesory circuit from your key switch and anoter common option, which is a simple rocker switch. The simple bottom line in all of it is that you want the yello wire to always see +12 volts, and you want the red wire to have some means of being switched. IF this is at all confusing, let me know and I can dexcribe it further or walk you through your installation...
Hope this helps
Phil
Kicker