i think i have a fix(ballast tank filling at speed)

[danimal95]

I just want to know where danimal95 found these for $40 and are they normal 3/4" or 1" sizes??

yes they are normal 3/ or 1" pipe thread,ebay my brothers

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-4-Electric-Sol...item45f28d4409


it may just be easier to use one of the switches on the consol that are not being used to activate tyhe solinoid then try to tie it in with all three fill switches.i ordered one yesterday i am hoping to have ity installed by the end of next week with results shortly there after

[stretch55]

Thanks! The 1" says 24v how woould I run 3 of these? I would want to replace the manual valve on my 3 intakes. I think this would eliminate the need of the 1" vented loops and creat an even faster fill time since it would reduce friction in the fill lines.

[danimal95]

Thanks! The 1" says 24v how woould I run 3 of these? I would want to replace the manual valve on my 3 intakes. I think this would eliminate the need of the 1" vented loops and creat an even faster fill time since it would reduce friction in the fill lines.

i thought that they all used the same intake on the bottom of the hull???i know that the rear bags for certain use the same intake,and i just assumed the front used that ipne as well,do to the fact that there are only 2 intakes on my hull,1 for the drivetrain and 1 for the ballast pumps?

[stretch55]

i thought that they all used the same intake on the bottom of the hull???i know that the rear bags for certain use the same intake,and i just assumed the front used that ipne as well,do to the fact that there are only 2 intakes on my hull,1 for the drivetrain and 1 for the ballast pumps?

I posted the wrong one. I found the 12v ones. I still need 3. 1 for each intake, I have 3 intakes, 1 for each bag. I think I could just wire them in with the tsunami's and add a bigger fuse. Then I should be able to remove the vented loops. I am just waiting for Jason at wakemakers to confirm that.

[cab13367]

i thought that they all used the same intake on the bottom of the hull???i know that the rear bags for certain use the same intake,and i just assumed the front used that ipne as well,do to the fact that there are only 2 intakes on my hull,1 for the drivetrain and 1 for the ballast pumps?

You are correct - the stock set up has one intake feeding one pump then three sprinkler valves that determine where the water will go. Are you going to upgrade your ballast to three separate pumps off one intake and do away with the sprinkler valves? I assuming you are since you ordered this valve.

Stretch has upgraded his so that each bag has it's own fill pump and each fill pump has it's own 1" intake.

I posted the wrong one. I found the 12v ones. I still need 3. 1 for each intake, I have 3 intakes, 1 for each bag. I think I could just wire them in with the tsunami's and add a bigger fuse. Then I should be able to remove the vented loops. I am just waiting for Jason at wakemakers to confirm that.

stretch,

Yes, you could do what you are proposing. But look at the cutaway diagram in the listing (click on item 10 in the technical specifications section) and the pic of the bottom part of the valve. I count 5 times that the water has to turn 90 degrees before eventually going out the other end so it looks like a very restrictive design. I think you would get better flow out of your Irritrols.

danimal,

Could you do a flow test for us when you get the valve? This is how I suggest you do the test. Disconnect the 1" fill line going from your Rule pump to the sprinkler manifold. Attach a reducer hose barb to the 1" hose - 1" to 3/4". Can get at Home Depot or Lowes for like 50 cents. Disconnect one of your rear fill lines at the sprinkler valve and remove the quick connect. Attach the hose to the reducer hose barb. Disconnect the other end from the sac and drape it over the back to the swim platform. Get a large cooler and time how long it takes to fill the cooler. Then install the valve at the end of the hose (you will need to get a fitting from HD again - 3/4" threaded male to 3/4" hosebarb) to attach the valve to the hose. You will need to run power to the valve to make it open. Time how long it takes to fill the same cooler and then let us know. Or send it to me and I'll be happy to test it out

Thanks!

Al

[cab13367]

I count 5 times that the water has to turn 90 degrees before eventually going out the other end so it looks like a very restrictive design.

Sorry, 4 times.

I got excited when I first saw this also because it looked like a motorized ball valve (full port, straight thru design) but it's not that.

[stretch55]

Sorry, 4 times.

I got excited when I first saw this also because it looked like a motorized ball valve (full port, straight thru design) but it's not that.

Thats what I thought too! That would be great! But that's not the case

[cab13367]

Thats what I thought too! That would be great! But that's not the case

I called the number on the listing and talked to the guy for a while. Real nice guy. He said they are working on a motorized ball valve but it would be a few months before it's ready.

[stretch55]

I called the number on the listing and talked to the guy for a while. Real nice guy. He said they are working on a motorized ball valve but it would be a few months before it's ready.

Sounds like a good winter project then.

[tazz3069]

yes they are normal 3/ or 1" pipe thread,ebay my brothers

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-4-Electric-Sol...item45f28d4409


it may just be easier to use one of the switches on the consol that are not being used to activate tyhe solinoid then try to tie it in with all three fill switches.i ordered one yesterday i am hoping to have ity installed by the end of next week with results shortly there after

I had purchased that same one. It does not work. It is very restrictive. That was one of my 5 test that I did when I tore all stuff out. Actually the sprinkler valves did work, not on the boat though. My grass looks great.