Bass Knob with as ws 420 eq

[jmvotto]

Brian, Thanks for the input. I already own both, the JL 6600 is already installed with the remote knob in the dash. the ws 420 is about to get installed. My simple question is which one do i use to control the sub, not the level but the frequency and db, or use both.

[Brianinpdx]

JMV -

If you want to EQ the sub... answer = 420 knob.

If you want the sub level controlled with the cabin level control...
answer = 420 knob.

If you want the sub level tied to independent
answer = the JL remote

simple enough?

Honestly, I'd start with the 420 controlling it and see if your happy there. I suspect you will be.

-Brian

[Razzman]

Great explanation Brian, breaks it down to the "Audio for Dummies" category!

[cab13367]

Joe,

Let me give this a shot. The answer to your question is yes, you should use the amp's remote bass knob to control the volume of your sub. As David points out, the WS EQ does not have this feature.

Also, my understanding is that you are going to use channels 5&6 on your M6600 to power the sub, correct? If so, you have a bass boost on/off switch rather than a knob. Flipping it to "on" gives you a 6db boost centered at 48 hz (I have the same amp so I looked it up in the manual). However, the WS has two knobs to control bass boost - one to set the amount of boost and the other to set the frequency at which the boost will be centered. So as David suggests, I would turn bass boost to off at your amp and instead, control it at the WS. Once you have it set, leave it alone and then control the sub volume using the remote knob.

Hope that helps.

Al

[EarmarkMarine]

jmvotto,

Consider doing this. Eliminate the JL amplifier Bass EQ control since there is no point in the redundancy. Add an LC-1 by PAC in line after the sub outputs of your WS420. Now you'll have the WS420 equalizer function plus a true sub level control (two very different functions). And, the hole in your dash is filled with something purposeful now.

BTW, many amplifiers now have a pure level control rather than a bass EQ knob. For example some of the JL Audio HD and XD amplifiers have this. And, I think I recall Phil writing that one or more of the Kicker amplifiers do as well. But this does not apply to the G6600's current control.

David
Earmark Marine

[cab13367]

Add an LC-1 by PAC in line after the sub outputs of your WS420.

David,

How is this any different or better than just using the remote bass knob that the amplifier is equipped with and Joe already has in place? Doesn't it do the same thing?

Thanks,

Al

[Razzman]

If i'm correct most remote bass knobs do the same as boosting bass at the head unit, example 0db, 6db, 12db, etc (or similar) and turning the knob into the negative (-) gives the illusion of less volume.

A PAC LC-1 is a potentiometer with a variable resistor, the amount of current flowing through can be varied by adjusting the knob. So turning the knob full + = full current = full volume, whereas full - = no current = no volume. It is the exact same thing as your sliding/knob/dimmer light switch at home.

[jmvotto]

Guys love all the advice i guess i am going to have to play with iall the options to see which i prefer. But i thought the JL knob and one of the ws sub knobs did exactly the same thing.

since the RCA's go to the ws first and the amps second i assume the amps should have more variance, tolerance with regards to frequency settings with tuning otherwise they will limit the wetsounds.

david, i do have the Pac lc1 and was saving it to split the in boat signal to the bow, so i can dial those back when the kids are up front

[cab13367]

If i'm correct most remote bass knobs do the same as boosting bass at the head unit, example 0db, 6db, 12db, etc (or similar) and turning the knob into the negative (-) gives the illusion of less volume.

A PAC LC-1 is a potentiometer with a variable resistor, the amount of current flowing through can be varied by adjusting the knob. So turning the knob full + = full current = full volume, whereas full - = no current = no volume. It is the exact same thing as your sliding/knob/dimmer light switch at home.

Razz,

You are absolutely right – I stand correctly. I read the manual again and it says, “with the remote boost knob connected, the boost is no longer limited to 0 or +6 dB, allowing a variable range of 0 to + 12 dB of boost to be selected.” So yes, on the JL M6600, it is a remote bass boost knob.

However, on the Kicker ZX700.5 which is what you and I have and running my sub of the 5th channel, the manual describes the remote bass knob as a “remote bass level control” and gives you “the ability to control the level of the subwoofer channel’s output remotely”. So I believe it functions the same as the PAC LC-1?

Thanks for setting me straight.

Al

[cab13367]

But i thought the JL knob and one of the ws sub knobs did exactly the same thing.

Joe,

This statement is correct. Please see my post above.

Thanks,

Al