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  1. #101
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    132

    Default Prop Shaft Alignment Yearly Maintenance Item

    Thanks docdrs, wetting the strut did the trick. Wiggled the shaft up and checked it while turning the prop, and could never fit a .0025 gauge in. Surprised it was that tight everywhere while turning it but I'm not gonna complain.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2008 LSV. 1100 rear sacs and IBS. ACME prop is next
    Ronix One w/ Parks bindings

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    41

    Default

    After having some vibrations and noticing the prop shaft coupling bolts were loose, I decided it was time to check the alignment.

    The feeler gauge keeps telling me the coupling is tight at the 12 o'clock position, bolts are still in but very loose. I started lowering the front of the engine, turned both bolts about 6 times each and couldn't really tell a difference. By 6 turns I was beginning to bottom out on the mount, so I stopped.

    My next move was to start raising the engine from the rear but discovered I didn't have the right size wrench for the rear jam nuts. Tomorrow I will be picking up some bigger wrenches and trying again. It also looked like the rear mounts were being stressed from lowering the front so much. Should I loosen the bolts holding the trunnion pins so they can rotate?

    6 turns seems like a lot of adjustment (about an inch vertical?), does this sound right? Should I completely remove the 4 bolts from the prop shaft coupling to check where the 'natural' position is?

    Oh, and for others wondering, you need a 15/16 wrench for the front mounts.
    Any idea what size i need for the rear?
    2006 Moomba XLV
    Indmar 325 MPI - Acme 1433
    1,100lb V-drive sacs + 1,180lb front
    WakeMAKERS Ballast System Upgrade
    DIY SuckGate
    PerfectPass DBW

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    41

    Default

    Today I moved the engine up and down again with the prop shaft completely disconnected and saw how quickly it comes out of alignment. I still couldn't produce a gap at the 12 o'clock position at all, the gap at the bottom remained at about .013-.014. The prop shaft does not appear to be bent since the gap and lack thereof remained in the same locations as I rotated the shaft.

    I ended up putting it all back where I started and bolting it back together.

    Any tips for my next try?
    2006 Moomba XLV
    Indmar 325 MPI - Acme 1433
    1,100lb V-drive sacs + 1,180lb front
    WakeMAKERS Ballast System Upgrade
    DIY SuckGate
    PerfectPass DBW

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    2,259

    Default

    you have to make sure your engine rubber mounts have not deformed as well . As long as you can rotate the shaft 180 and get the same gap then you need to keep going. You need to have the bolts in loose to get a true alignment , just keep pulling the flanges together to measure. The major thing here is to be able to visualize in your head what you are trying to accomplish.
    Last edited by DOCDRS; 06-27-2016 at 11:41 PM.
    09 21v LAUNCH

    99 Outback LS. Sold


    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  5. #105
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    West Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    283

    Default

    Got mine done today. Had to raise the front about 7/8ths of a turn and got it to ,0025" or so all around. My first shot at it and I was working in the hot sun so I wasn't especially nitpicky. Will dial it in more next season.

    Thanks for the great writeup!

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    2004 Mobius LS - hooked on footin'
    Former tow: 1986 Chaparral 178 XL, 90hp Merc
    First tow: 197x Glasspar Citation, 135hp Merc

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Dousman, Wi
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Hi, i am about to adjust my drive shaft alignment after replacing it. Great post on how to do it, THANKS
    Jim

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Dousman, Wi
    Posts
    7

    Default

    About to do mine, Excellent post

  8. #108
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    304

    Default

    I'm planning to do this in the spring. I've read through all the posts and have a general idea of what needs to be done.

    I searched for some videos on "Moomba / V drive shaft alignment" but most of what I found was for larger boats. Has anyone on this forum seen a video doing step by step on a Moomba?
    2021 Mojo, 6.2L Raptor 400/1.76, Acme 3407 15.5x13, G6, Flow3, +6500 lbs ballast
    2005 Mobius LSV (sold)
    Windermere Lake, B.C., 2800' Elevation
    2021 Mojo Mods

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gantt, AL
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Hayden, if you find a video for a V-drive prop shaft alignment, please post the link here because I can’t see any of the pictures in the earlier posts. I completely removed the coupling bolts from the flanges and I don’t have any space between the couplings at any point. And to make sure the two couplings weren’t rusted together, I turned the prop shaft which turned the prop shaft coupling while the V-drive coupling remained stationary. Still no gap anywhere between them. So either mine is perfect or I still don’t understand what I am checking, even after reading this post twice and reading one of the links in one of the replies. I have a 2016 Moomba Craz. Thanks! Scotts
    Scoot Daddy
    South Alabama

    2016 Moomba Craz, Brittany Blue Metal Flake main w/ black hull, Indmar Raptor 400 6.2L with OJ 945 prop
    Sold to get Moomba - 2007 Centurion Avalanche C4 Storm w/ Mercruiser Black Scorpion
    2004 Caravelle Interceptor 212 w/ 357 Mercruiser 4bbl & Bravo 1 sterndrive

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    2,259

    Default

    If the cutlass bearing is dry it can prevent aft movement of the shaft flange. wet the bearing and turn the prop and pull it back n forward a bit to free it. But just a 1/4 inch is all you need
    09 21v LAUNCH

    99 Outback LS. Sold


    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

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