Page 10 of 11 FirstFirst ... 891011 LastLast
Results 91 to 100 of 104
  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Murrieta, CA
    Posts
    1,269

    Default Prop Shaft Alignment Yearly Maintenance Item

    Quote Originally Posted by yotaismygame View Post
    I loosened all 4 which made a gap. You're saying the two flanges should be able to completely separate? This was not happening for me. If I applied pressure with my left and measured with my right there was no changes. So it sounds like they are stuck together? I had a big gap all the way around even when applying pressure.
    Spin the shaft from the prop end to free the coupler.

    I also found the trick to closing the gap was to push the shaft in from the prop side. I could get it close on the coupler side but was able to close the gap by forcing the shaft toward the v-drive from the prop.
    2010 Moomba XLV
    340hp cat
    Gravity 3, wake plate
    Rad-a-cage

    I have a love for ballast and large wakes.
    1100 v-drive lockers
    1180 under the playpen
    + lead and a collection of other ballast bags

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    2,110

    Default

    With the nuts loose you should be able to move the prop shaft and coupler front to back the amount that you loosen the nuts. Sometimes the two couplers can be stuck and a slight bump of the engine over will free them if your boat is in the water or as mentioned above holding the prop and turning or and push pulling to free the couplers if out of the water. Sounds like your not measuring between the couplers if you have a gap when the bolts are tight
    09 21v LAUNCH

    99 Outback LS. Sold


    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    82

    Default

    Bringing this one back from the dead. I decided I needed to check this so I found the four bolts and every one was slightly loose, meaning i could spin each bolt/nut. being a little concerned, I removed each bolt and didn't see any damage to them and the coupler was staying tight (couldn't fit a .0015" between them). Almost called it good to put it back together but then thought "what the hell, lets see if it is tight all the way around". So i stuck one of the bolts in the prop coupler and used it as a handle to rotate just the prop shaft. Next thing i know, the gap is probably .100". My guess is this was never checked before and a little bit of rust had developed and stuck the two together. As i understand it, the couplers are completely flat on the faces that touch and all of the force from the engine is transferred through the bolts.

    I do have two questions, first is the theory behind this that the prop shaft is set where it is and the engine is what needs to move so as to not induce any stresses on the natural position of the prop shaft? second, should i be able to move the prop shaft up and down (perpendicular to the shaft) or should it be pretty locked in? i'm talking 1/4" of movement up and down.

    EDIT: just re read the instructions and now i understand why it says "Holding the two flanges together". lets try this again...
    Last edited by chester; 05-08-2016 at 07:02 PM.
    2008 LSV. 1100 rear sacs. ACME prop is next
    2012 Ronix One Modello w/ Parks bindings

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    82

    Default

    Well I tried to pull the two flanges together and couldn't do it, so i put a bolt back in and was able to pull the flanges together with that. I think i'm missing something. Anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks
    2008 LSV. 1100 rear sacs. ACME prop is next
    2012 Ronix One Modello w/ Parks bindings

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    3,047

    Default

    maybe try a second set of hands pushing the shaft from the prop to get the flanges together while another measures?

    2007 Moomba Outback - going, going, GONE
    2015 "NOT A MOOMBA"

    Why Not? Play Hard! Get wet

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    2,110

    Default

    Wet the strut bushings and turn the prop so the shaft is lubricated in the strut, then you should be able to pull the flanges together
    09 21v LAUNCH

    99 Outback LS. Sold


    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    372

    Default

    Any tips on how to get a torque wrench on the prop shaft bolts? Trying to snug them up to 25-30 lbs, but I can't get a deep set socket on there while still holding another wrench on the nut.... am I missing something? Or has anyone else had an issue with this?
    '13 Mobius LSV
    '05 Mobius LSV - Sold

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    13,363

    Default

    I could only get open end wrenches on mine if I recall correctly. They have nylock nuts so I just tighten them and check them regularly.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    Exile Tunes
    P5 Danielo Diamond 58"
    PWI
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  9. #99
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    372

    Default

    Thanks Kane - I like that better than the frustration of trying to get the big a$$ torque wrench in there.
    '13 Mobius LSV
    '05 Mobius LSV - Sold

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    1,090

    Default

    Same here. No room for the torque wrench. Just used open end wrenches.
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold
    1993 Echelon

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •