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Thread: Help a newby
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04-14-2010, 11:19 AM #11Senior Member
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I have both. Well, I've seen both. Some's got my Detention 2012 and I cannot remember who it is. Anyway, The Book has some more technical detail in certain areas.
The problem is when i watch this sort of thing it leaves those critical parts out.
Like when you start in deep water, boat pulls tension on the line, you bring the board under the water and brings your heels of your feet to you butt. Then you ride up and out of the water.
That so doesn't work for me. I try and try that and all i do is get pulled over my board or drag out and lose my handle.
The Book has some animations that show exactly what should be happening above and below the waterline.
It is also possible that the driver is applying too much power. Tell him that the target speed is 15 MPH and you want a fairly light acceleration to that speed. After you are up, then signal him to go to your usual riding speed.
I ended up turning the board as the boat pulls me up and i come up out of the water almost in regular position.
The video wants you to come up in a side slide basically. This would be great if i can learn this as it will help me get to a switch position as well.
Sliding can be scarey (because of face-planting) to do at regular riding speeds. However, sliding exercises can be done at very low speed. I am 165 lbs and can slide at 11 MPH.
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04-14-2010, 12:18 PM #12Senior Member
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This is great advise. I'll add this - there is NO reason to stand up immediately. Have your driver pull you up slowly and only top out the speed at 13-15mph. You can stay squatted, sideways for ages behind the boat.
Also, try this on your wakesurf board, or try it on your wakeboard with a really short rope.
Once you can get up sideways, try this drill - keep the board sideways, speed 15mph or so and by shifting your weight from one foot to other, slide the board sideways from wake to wake, staying inside the wake. This is a good drill for teaching board control, weight shifting and leveraging rope tension.
The next progression of this same drill is surface 180s.
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04-14-2010, 02:36 PM #13
We tell beginners to think about it like they are playing bball and got knocked on their butt. A teammate comes over, grabs you by the hand and pulls you back up standing. You do nothing but hold on, the teammate (boat) does all the work.
Lots of good advice already posted. I would just add that when cutting across the wake the board should be facing the direction you are traveling (sideways.) The trick though, as already mentioned, is to initiate your turns by edging the board, not by pointing it.
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04-14-2010, 05:34 PM #14
Thanks everyone. I will be trying this all out pretty soon. I will look into the Book. I did pretty good i think last year but i want to do a lot better and more things this year.
We even got some helmets for ridding so the crashes don't hurt so much lol.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
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04-14-2010, 08:27 PM #15Senior Member
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I also recommend watersport goggles (specifically vented for crashes -- not diving goggles) and a Neck Roll (like what hydrofoilers use).
http://www.bartswatersports.com/catalog.asp?P=4427
http://cinchmax.com/_wsn/page3.html
Best wishes!
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04-14-2010, 10:08 PM #16
Now those water goggles i like the idea of them. I bought claudia 2 pairs of goggles last year but she hated them. They would fog up and or get uncomfortable. She wears contacts when we are on the boat and i realy want something to help protect her eyes and contacts.
Those things arnt cheap and last year she lost a few ridding.
DO you have them? Or does anyone? How are they compared to normal goggles for swimming and such.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
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04-15-2010, 05:30 PM #17Senior Member
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I have one pair. The strap goes under my helmet, so the goggles cannot get lost. However, they have occasionally flipped up during an oblique crash, so contact lense protection is not 100%. I would like it if they had a bit more padding for the cheek bone, which would enable me to slightly tighten the strap and maintain comfort. However, they are very effective at preventing "eye openers" during a face plant, which is their very welcome purpose. You'll be justifiably braver if you are wearing them.
The "Bug Eye" model to which I linked are vented at the sides. This way, they will not transmit the water pressure to your eyes during a crash. They will fog up while you are still in the water, but the vents will allow air movement to immediately clear the fog when you start riding. If I get bothered by any fogging while waiting for the boat to start moving, I just dunk my face in the lake, which is conveniently located at chin level. Fogging simply isn't a significant problem.
Between goggles and the Neck Roll, I'd say that the Neck Roll is the more important item to have.Last edited by Ian Brantford; 04-15-2010 at 05:35 PM.
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04-16-2010, 12:13 AM #18
On the subject of safety - I'm going to buy a helmet for myself and the rest of the family this summer. Didn't use one last year but want to set an example for my kiddo's (plus daddy's not as young as he used to be
What do you recommend??
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04-16-2010, 08:19 AM #19
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04-16-2010, 08:51 AM #20
I tried Protec they run a small helmet and i wear an XL in those.
We tried getting those before the close out sale for 40 each and missed the deal.
We have Liquid Force ones we got a deal on for 40. They run as a larger helmet and i wear a S and Claudia wears XS. They also came with the snap in ear flaps if you so desire.
We went with Black and Red lettering.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
[COLOR="#696969"]