Trailer Bunks WARNING

[Sled491]

If you use the carriage bolts they will suck right into the wood when you tighten the nut on the back side. You just need to cut an X in the carpet, drill the proper size hole for the carriage bolt you are going to use, slip the bolt in the hole and under the carpet and put on a lock washer and nut. Tighten until the head of the carriage bolt is fully barried in the bunk. Then take some of your silicone or a stapler and fasten the carpet back down where you cut the X.

Haven't had to do this with my Moomba, but did exactly that with my Nitro.

[kaneboats]

If you are going to go to the trouble you may as well replace the bunks and carpet. It's only about a $40 job and it's good for 8 or so years. Don't staple the top side. Or you can just peel the carpet back to where the bunks attach and then re-staple it from the bottom after you put the carriage bolts in. Worth it to get stainless staples too.

[kaneboats]

You'd be throwing the wood away anyway when you take them off.

[snowboardcorey]

I've never had any issues with carriage bolts. Through bolting the bunks is a lot more solid than lag bolts in the event someone comes in hot with the boat, or the trailer isnt in deep enough, or if there is a little rot around the bolt itself.

[Razzman]

I like my idea better, just easy, plain and quick. I've had lag bolts on every trailer i've had and never had an issue once siliconed.

[kaneboats]

All I meant is that you could get on the heads if you wanted to cuz you could just cut the wood away. The best point though is that the hex heads (countersunk) would allow for tightening when you inspect and find them loose.

[Sled491]

the advantage of carriage bolts is the round head. If for whatever reason they push up a loot less damage if any will occur. Also the carriage bolt once sucked into the board as it were creates it's own grip. I have yet to have a problem with a carriage bolt used in this fashion.

Bolt, washer, wood, flange, washer, nut adds an extra element that is not necessary and one that could create another potential week link.

[kaneboats]

That would work great too, assuming I could find the torx or hex tool in the garage when I need to tighten them.

[viking]

"The best point though is that the hex heads (countersunk) would allow for tightening when you inspect and find them loose."

Exactlly.

If you try to properly tighten a carriage bolt that has been in service for a while, odds are it will spin and when that happens, you'll have to take action while the boat is off the trailer.

If you didn't feel comfortable with a HHCS, A button head socket screw would also be a better alternative than a carriage bolt.

It has a round head with a socket and is full thread. You can insert a torx or allen wrench into the head and get a wrench on the hex nut, allowing easy and quick periodic inspection and tightening once boat has hit the water.

Use galvanized hardware if available.

give it a counter bored hole

apply silicone sealer

Button Head Socket Screw:

Anybody on the forums using these and gone through the hassle of complete replacement on the trailer?