Monster Tower Cargo Rack Install

[KSmith]

Part Deux


What these do is wrap the 1" cargo frame with stainless and allows yo to tinker with mounting locations and angles easily as the original Monster clamps you need to drill into the cargo top frame. These made it easier to adjust and in my mind provide much better strength and support that 4 screws as teh stainless wraps the 1" frame tubing. The problem was these were a major pain to get around the bends in the frame tubing. It can be done but it'll scratch the tubing up some, which is minor to me and some of the scratches get hidden by the canvas. You can somewhat see these in the 4th picture from the left on the Moomba install thread post #15 (same link as above)

You will also need at least one 5/32 drill bit (more is better in case they dull or break). Also you will need a 10-24 Thread Tap to add thread to the mounting holes, I got mine from Sears. Then you will need 8 10-14 X 1/2 stainless screws (Lowes or Home Depot), and some LocTite (I used LocTite Red)

Okay now that you have ordered what you want from the basics 4 speaker clamps, non-slip pads, and 4 new Taco flat bottom Ball Hinges or you go all out like I did, the next thing you need to do is mount the new Ball hinges to the new Speaker Clamps.

You'll need to make the Center lines Across the flat round mounting area on the speaker clamps. I just used a couple framing squares and pencil and eyeballed it. But it needs to be as close as possible to center. Once the centerlines are marked place a new Ball Hinge onto the centerline showing through the screw holes. Mark the screw holes onto the flat round mounting area and drill them out with a 5/32 drill bit. Once the mounting holes are drilled you will need to use th e10-24 Tap to thread the holes. After that add some LocTite to the newly threaded mounting holes and secure the Ball Hinges to the Speaker Clamps.

Add the non-slip pad (it is a black flexible plastic looking pad about 4 x 6 inches I think several pads per package, kind of a ribbed texture and self-stick on the back,)to the speaker clamps if you have not already.

From there it gets easy to finish the install.

Good luck and if I need to clarify anything let me know.

Great looking boat BTW!

Kraig

[viking]

I think this Mod should be a "sticky" for easy retrieval in the future?

[KSmith]

Here is a snap of the short rear support bars I built to replace the longer original ones.

[bbuhtz]

I'm wondering, could you take the rear mounting rods from the rack and attach them to the front tower crossmember, seeing as they come factory very long, and that i have 4 tower speakers on the rear crossmember. I would think this would be possible... am I wrong? I would think this would also allow you to fit snug up against the tower speakers rather than being so low creating future headaches.

[Sea N' Things]

Nice job, looks good

[11 Outback V]

I recently finished my install, w the help of a few. You should be able to mount the rear supports just about anywhere as long as you dont get real aggressive with the angle. I have four tower speakers on my boat and mounted the rear supports to the rear bar w no problems.
If you follow the instructions on here it is very easy.

[2007 Outback V]

I recently finished my install, w the help of a few. You should be able to mount the rear supports just about anywhere as long as you dont get real aggressive with the angle. I have four tower speakers on my boat and mounted the rear supports to the rear bar w no problems.
If you follow the instructions on here it is very easy.

No pics, please do share.

[11 Outback V]

I will gladly share the next time I pull my boat out of the garage, hopefully this weekend!!

[bbuhtz]

Yeah a picture would be helpful so I can visualize my case before I drop 600 bones. I know ssmith posted a picture of the rack with speakers but my tower is slightly different. Thanks

[KSmith]

There is nothing written in stone that says you have to attach the rear supports to the crossbars front or back. You could have the attachment point on the rear legs with the support bars extending up to the bimini. The only real restriction is as was stated before try and keep the angle of the bar between the mounting points reasonable, and if needed shorten the support bars (they entend pretty far stock). There are several places on the outer bimini frame that the rear support bars cab be attached, based on where the bimini frame is exposed from the canvas.