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Fixed! I took voltages working back from the starter solenoid with the ignition switch in "start". I found that the voltage was reading 12vdc at the output of the neutral switch and on the input of...

As far as ruling out the key switch, if I jumped the 12vdc from the battery to the start wire it should crank correct or am I missing something?

Also when I check for voltage at the starter with...

When I jump the solenoid it cranks fine and starts. I also swapped batteries and still the same result.

I went to go test run my 2000 Moomba Kanga today and it will not start/crank/anything. There is not even a clicking noise. All other electronics/gauges work. Below is what I have checked and tried (I...

Short story is I have a ~4" long horizontal crack in the block below the port exhaust manifold. No water in oil, compression is good as well. My question is can I get a 4 bolt main 5.7L Chevy long...

Sierra 18-5354?

Just changed it, thanks! Does anyone know what part number to use for the distributor cap? It looks like the source of my issue is an old distributor cap, looks corroded inside the cap.

The gas was new last week so if I don't have to drain it I would rather not but I wasn't sure if the gas would drain out of the line as soon as the filter comes off. I'm going to hit it with carb...

Also, when replacing the spin on fuel filter I'm guessing that I should drain the tank first?

Occasionally my 2000 Kanga (310 Carb) has some hesitation/stuttering when accelerating. I'm going to start with the fuel filter and go from there. My question is regarding the layout of the fuel...

So I ended up getting a photo tach and compared shaft to engine rpm. Turns out my tachometer was bad and reading high. So now it's fixed with a new tach and I'm well into the 40's. Thanks!

I may be looking at a transmission rebuild/replacement. I am thinking about undertaking a rebuild on my HSW 450D transmission. I am good with cars, however, I have not worked on transmissions...

I took it out tonight and it is a 1:1 transmission. I ran it, verified that the transmission fluid level was in spec, that it wasn't getting water in it (not milky) and that the fluid didn't smell...

That is a good idea, I was about to try and use a photo-tach on the shaft.

My concern with this is that the boat is supposed to go faster than 35 being that it has (which I will verify) a 1:1...

So I went to go verify my transmission model/ratio and the label plate is missing. Anyone have another way (without disassembly) to figure out what transmission I have? Thanks.

*i can't get too

5,000 rpm, which I know I any get to, but even at lower speeds it's off from mine. I'm at 20mph at 3,200 and his is around 2,100. I'm going to double check the ratio on my tranny but it seems odd...

So here is some more information, I took my friends 07 Malibu response out this week and his tops out around 47mph, granted his is fuel injected and has a little more HP and the hulls are slightly...

The cover snaps at the top of the windshield. For now I just cut some closed cell foam to fit into the duct to plug it when the boat is not in use.

I have a 2000 Kanga (same hull as the Outback) with the 310 carbureted motor and a brand new Acme 541 prop (13x12). With just me in the boat I can get 35mph (GPS verified) at 4800rpm. As a note...

I have a 2000 Moomba Kanga and I have noticed that after it rains the water that runs off of the windshield and onto the bow tends to run into the two air intake ducts due to the recess in the bow...

I am new to direct drives I wanted to double check my winterizing steps on my 2000 Moomba Kanga since it gets below zero regularly during the winter months where I am.

1. Run engine up to...