Dan, I noticed you drilled your hole a lot lower on the bracket than Ian did, so there is a lot more pressure on your set screw than on Ians so maybe that is the difference.
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Dan, I noticed you drilled your hole a lot lower on the bracket than Ian did, so there is a lot more pressure on your set screw than on Ians so maybe that is the difference.
For anyone who is handy with a welder and welding, here is my fix. One side bracket pin hole was completely wore out, and the other side was getting damn close, hence the welded portion at the top (in picture) or the bottom of the bracket. Swim platform is solid as can be, no more slop, and I'm very confident this will last.
https://forum.moomba.com/picture.php...pictureid=3917
https://forum.moomba.com/picture.php...pictureid=3916
https://forum.moomba.com/picture.php...pictureid=3918
Nice, not sure why my pics are coming up... here they are my old method of posting pics.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ckbracket7.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ckbracket6.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ckbracket5.jpg
Nice fix. I cut some galvanized duct work sheet metal shims a placed on inner and outer sides of both brackets between the rear of the boat bracket and the rear of the platform bracket. It shims the platform up. Also if the platform moves up from wakes rolling in from the stern or pressure from surfing , the shim will drop down wedging it better. Easy n cheap alt to welding
Has anyone checked on just swapping the old style brackets with the new style used on the 2011's? I believe that you would only have to replace the ones attaced to the transom and not the ones on the platform. I looked at them the other day, and they appear to have the same mounting hole pattern.
I had previous had shims wedging the deck in place, but removing the deck from the boat was a pita for me, so I finally got around to just welding it up. It slides into place easy and removes easy. Hoping to not have to touch it again and I probably won't be the owner of the boat when the deck needs some TLC again.
If i'm looking at this correctly, you added some length to the bracket so now the bracket on the platform extends below the transom bracket. And you also welded some thickness near the top (widest) portion of the platform bracket to fill the gap and wedge the brackets together. Is that about right? Did you also add thickness to the entire length of the platform bracket?
Basically in the picture (top: before, bottom: present) below I added some material at the bottom to close the gap I had between the deck bracket and the transom bracket to eliminate the slop... and in the circle thats what one side of my bracket looked like, so I cut it out and reformed it the way they come factory. The other side was wearing the same so I just did it too.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...untitled-2.jpg
No I used 4 shims. I put the first 2 in. Cutting them. With tin snips and figures 4 would be better than 2. The platform is a tad higher out of the water as the shims keep it higher but its rock solid.....just ope its easy to tap the shims up in the fall. But I reaLly like the rigidity when sitting at a dock and rollers come in
do you happen to have pictures of your setup? I'm having a hard time visualizing how you did it. How would the platform sit higher with the shims, as the pin still has to go through the hole in both brackets right? Thanks for your help, I'm trying to figure out how to do this on mine.
I have the same gap at the top of the bracket. I tried something really simple today - I stuck a stainless lock washer in the gap from the top. It went in about halfway and completely eliminated the slop. I was afraid i was going to have a hard time getting it out afterwards but i was able to remove it no problem with needle nose pliers.
I have to remove my platform every time i put it in the garage so I didn't want to do anyhing that would be hard to remove.
Guess I'll keep doimg this until i find a better way.
Today I used a composite shim from home depot. It's the kind of shim that is used to shim a toilet seat :D. I broke them off flush with the top of the platform sot that I had something to grab onto to remove it. It seemed to work well today. I also bought a set of plastic bond scrapers from the automotive aisle to try. I cut them to the width of the bracket. I'll try them next time out.
I used the shims, but they have developed some slop to them after the season.
going to brainstorm a much more long term fix this winter.
the shims are a good cheap alternative, but it makes removing the platform kind of a pita. the new house I'm going into will not allow the platform to stay on, so I need something removable.
Here are some pics, took about 5 mins to cut and place these....I know they look ghetto but they work and the platform is rock solid.....I also like the SS washer idea as it is def easier to install......may try that one later
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6028/...cbe64ae4_m.jpghttp://farm7.static.flickr.com/6023/...3a6fc964_m.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6027/...3ca9de6c_m.jpg
I need to do this. My platform is not horrible and seems to only have slop on one side, but I see how it could get worse quickly.
For those using washers as shims, could you explain to me a bit more how you get them back out to remove the platform? I think someone mentioned needlenose pliers but mine are way to thick to be able to use to remove the washer once it drops down betwwen the brackets
not all platforms have this issue.
but...presonally speaking, yes. it is worth a hassle to have a nice soft pad on the swim deck.
i bet it would be rare that someone who has experienced a thick seadek pad would remove it to go teak
Please note that I used a stainless lock washer (see pic below) NOT a flat washer to eliminate the slop. I inserted the washer between the platform bracket and the piece that the bracket slides into that is attached to the transom. I inserted this at the top of where the two meet, which is where the gap is. Inserted the washer with the cut in the 12 o'clock position (on top) and only about 1/2 of the diameter of the washer went in. Make sure you find a washer that is just slightly smaller in thickness than the gap so that it does not slide all the way in. I just got lucky and happened to have one that was the correct thickness. This way, it takes up the gap yet is easy to remove at the end of the day. The gap on the other side was smaller and I did not have a cut washer for it so I left it as is but even with just one washer in place, 95% of the slop was eliminated.
Do NOT drop a flat washer in there as you may have a really hard time getting the platform off!
Al
http://img4.fastenal.com/productimages/71067_hr4c.jpg
I will keep my beautiful teak! And not admit that I am old and it might hurt my knees! And the kids don't care! :p
As far as the problem this issue has been on this board for years! And no one with a teak deck has complained. I believe it is because the teak deck is flat on the bottom without a lip and probably doesn't experience strumming as it passes throught the water or any other water induced vibration that might cause things to loosen up and wear some.
But I will not comment on this anymore as I am happy with what I got and you guy don't mind shimming the stuff. :D
In other words Teak is now just for us old timers that appreciate the beauty of the wood and just make their kids suffer. ;)
Thanks Al that helped!
great post Al .......but would it not be better to insert the cut at 10 or 2 or even 3 or 9 as if it slips down there is no way to compress the cut and possibly make it very difficult to remove the platform. Love the simplicity ,just thinking of a possible woopsie
I suppose that would work too. But if you look at the washer from the side with the cut on top, it looks like a wedge with the widest part at the top (at the cut). So that's why I did it that way. On my platform, the washer goes in about halfway and that's about where it stayed at the end of the day.
I like your idea Al. I tried this a few weekends back, and did actually put a flat washer in first. Obviously, that dropped in most of the way, then the top of the bracket got the lock washer. This got ride of the slop, but the flat washer down in the brackets made the swim deck nearly permanent. We had to reef on the thing for a while before we could get it out.
I like the tin shims, , but also worry about removing the platform after a day. Might be another pain.
I also tried the toilet shims this past Friday. Worked GREAT! Until about halfway thru the day, then they fell out somewhere... I didn't break them off at all once jammed into the gap, so that might have been the major issue.
I look forward to any other options that may pop up, and might try that ductwork shim idea...
I spoke with Heidi at Atlanta Marine and had her price out the 2011 Swim Platform brackets; they are surprisingly inexpensive, and I plan to order a set. I don't want to post the price here as I don't know the rules with dealers on that, but I'll say that replacing the bracket on the transom and the platform for both sides should cost less than 10 cases of Miller Lite.
Below are pics to go with the description above. I have been using this method the last three or four times out and it has been working well for me. It eliminates 95% of the movement and is really easy to remove with a pair of needle nose pliers afterwards which is important for me as I have to remove the swim platform after each time out.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...7/d43277f8.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...7/3460176b.jpg
^haha I completely agree!
I believe that the transom brackets just screw into the transom, I don't think they have backing plates and nuts/bolts, I think they are a sheet metal style screw, but I'm not sure.
Either way, on the Outback if I do have to get to inside of the transom to get to nuts & bolts it shouldn't be too hard, the back floor comes up really easily and a few 12" extensions would get me in the right place, if need be.
It kinda makes sense the bottom screws are just sheetmetal/wood type screws but on my boat, the top screws are definitely machined screws and have nuts and washers on the inside of the boat to tighten them down. And on our boats, there is no way to remove the floor at the transom without cutting it out.
That would be nice if the bottom two bolts were just blind threads. Then it would be a pretty straight forward swap. And if the new brackets fit that same bolt pattern, then, wow, that would be awesome.
Do the dealers have access to an exploded parts diagram through a Skiers Choice website? If so, that would be the easiest way to see if the bottom screws have nuts or simply thread into blind holes.
After doing the shims and thinking physics and levers I think Al's idea is best and simple. I didn't have thin enough lock washers so using 2 adjustable wrenches I bent a washer 1/3 2/3 so it wouldn't slip down all the way just incase it was to thin. The bent part also give something to grab to remove. All slop removed definitely quicker than the shims and better I believe.
Here is a pic of the bent washer. I have minimal spacing so have to insert it from underneath and from the side of the platform. After 1400lbs of surfing regular and goofy, and 2000lbs of wakeboarding ballast these little suckers stayed put and are easy still easy to remove. sorry for picture quality space was tight
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6187/...07a1d6fc_z.jpg