ideal loction would be at the bottom of the drop portion on the keel. my 2013 center drain is located inbetween the skegs which is higher than that the drop keel portion, so that would not really solve the issue of water trapped in the keel
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ideal loction would be at the bottom of the drop portion on the keel. my 2013 center drain is located inbetween the skegs which is higher than that the drop keel portion, so that would not really solve the issue of water trapped in the keel
Precisely. I think its a good idea but I don't want to do it first!Quote:
ideal loction would be at the bottom of the drop portion on the keel. my 2013 center drain is located inbetween the skegs which is higher than that the drop keel portion, so that would not really solve the issue of water trapped in the keel
EDIT: I should say I think the drain between the skegs is a good spot as well. That is the low point in the bilge/fuel tank area when on the trailer. I understand there is a semi-permeable barrier (partially sealed bulkhead??) between that area and the area of the drop keel. I'd say if a guy was going to get excited about adding drain plugs he would want to add both. Might even help minimize the water under the locker.
Joe - thanks for the advice. I been thinking about it alot and I have decided to just put down a layer of 6oz. fiberglass mat on the floor of the ski locker. I am not going to try and re-fiberglass the whole ski locker and seal it. I agree with you it will be a waste of time and money trying to re-fiberglass the whole ski locker. The only reason I am laying fiberglass on the floor is for strength and will only be doing the area I reach, I don't like when I stepped into the locker I heard cracking.Quote:
Gabby. Not sure I would waste my time glassing the floor, the water can come in from a void in the bow tip at the front of the locker. Sc knows about this issue. I did the deck plate and just drained it regularly .
"Me too"... but with a twist.
I would strongly advise anyone with this era of boat to cut out a deck plate and the foam down to the hull, even if you don't see any signs of it. I think it's very likely that you have this issue.
I had no indication that my boat had this issue. Standing/jumping in the ski locker didn't produce any squishes or other signs of trapped water. But given how many people have this issue, and the fact that I haven't read a single "not me", I decided to cut an inspection hole/deck plate anyways. I figured I would end up doing it some time in the future to put my mind at ease, so I might as well do it now.
As I drilled and then cut out the foam, everything was bone-dry. But then suddenly, I broke away a piece of foam giving a gap to bottom and it was like hitting oil! The water started to flow. The water was not trapped between the foam and the underside of the ski locker, it was trapped between the foam and the hull. I sucked out about 2 gallons of water and gained peace of mind knowing that I'm putting the boat away totally dry.
A big thanks to the forum on this. This is great communal knowledge. Without it, I wouldn't have known about the problem or the solution.
i know i said a big me too a bunch of years ago, including cracks and holes in the ski locker floor... lack of free time and storing all winter hasn't left me time to put the deck cover in... boat is home a bit earlier this year so i just ordered one off amazon.ca... also removing the carpet from the floor in the rear lockers as well.. weeks after not using the boat, carpet is still damp.. glad to finally remove it.
What adhesive works best on the port cover.
I used a bit of the 3M 5200 marine adhesive because I was doing a thru-hull and it was easy. That area below the locker isn't perfectly sealed (the real root of the problem) so I don't think you really need to put any adhesive there. A silicone sealant would probably work nicely too.
Can anyone suggest how far from rear of ski Locker to put the Hole?