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Happy to help man.
How about setting out a piece of cardboard or paper under it overnight to see if you catch any drips. Dropping level while just sitting there sounds like a serious leak! Did it ever feel like the trailer was pushing you through a stop?
Well it is indeed a leak in the master cylinder! ugh!! I left a paper towel on the garage floor overnight and there's a round ring of fluid, drips, on the paper towel. Not what I needed right now.
I've never felt the trailer pushing my truck through a stop though.
I am thinking that this cause is a result of an incident that happened last fall that I posted about when I accidentally forgot the tongue swing pin and when I came to a stop the whole tongue jack-knifed into my bumper.
Now I am going to have to pull the inner member and diagnose leak cause, get replacement parts and fix and then bleed my brakes AGAIN which I HATE to do.
Oh and I have seen that Asian Bass guy video before, it's actually the one I watched to try and learn how to bleed the brakes the first time I did it back in April.
Glad you found it. I'm sure you are frustrated but working brakes are worth the effort.
I'm looking online at Pacific Trailers now. My trailer has disc brakes correct? Trying to find the right replacement master cylinder for reference.
Most likely this guy-
http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-3...se-w/solenoid/
Or if you just wanted to gut it and start clean, this guy (if you have brakes on both axles)-
http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A...-Brakes-34044/
Berg that first link is the one I was thinking! Thanks!!!!!
I'm not sure if I need to gut it and start clean or not. Seems like a drastic solution.
I just looked at the picture of the bottom of the inner member replacement and noticed the reverse valve drain tube is pushed flush with the solenoid. Last night while working on mine I noticed there is a decent gap on my drain tube, it isn't sitting flush against the solenoid as pictured.
I wonder if that could be leaking? Though based off the positioning of the internal parts in that pic leads me to believe it's the master cylinder but I will check again.
Damn it why do I have to work!! I'd rather just be getting this out of the way.
I am thinking my camping trip this weekend is toast because of this f'ing mess.
Yes, drastic but perhaps time saving. To do the whole inner member you knock out the 2 pins, disconnect the brake line, cut the solenoid wire, and yank it out. Less than 10 minutes if you have the right tools and don't have any rusty stuck parts.
New one goes back in in about the same amount of time. I can't say what it takes to pull the Master Cylinder out and swap for another. Mine was frozen solid and 13yrs old so I opted to gut it.
I may end up going this inner member route and seeing if I can have it overnighted.
How do you remove those retaining clips that hold the roller pins in so you can slide it out?
Need a pliers like this to remove (spread apart) the snap rings on one side.
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_18433.jpg
After disconnecting the wire & line then the whole thing should slide out the front.
Thanks Berg I figured it was those type of pliers. HF has them so I'll pick them up.
Ordered a new master cylinder and paid (out the a$$) for 2 day shipping so should be here tomorrow. Quick swap (hopefully) and bleed the brakes and I'll be ready for our trip. Nothing like cutting it close!!!