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How do you guys connect all positive loads to the common of the Perko?
I don't have enough room on that post.
A lot of things like amps are connected directly to the house battery.
You create (or use) some kind of bus or distribution block to feed the Common terminal?
I am no expert here, but only one positive per battery to the switch.
Thats one of the downsides of the actual Perko brand battery switch.....its very shallow with short studs. A couple of solutions are to either use a heavy duty buss bar or a remote stud. This leaves the main starter cable and a short jumper to the buss or remote std, the only B+ cables on the "C" post.
That's what I'm thinking - some type of junction stud that can be covered. Not sure how a heavy buss would be insulated.
Anyone have any photos of how they handled this?
Both BEP Marine and Blue Sea make BUS Bar with available covers.
Thank you!
One more question....any idea of what rating to get? Would this be a case where more is definitely better?
I would only have three connections off the Perko common/output post total....1) the factory alternator starter feed, 2) the factory helm buss feed leading to the factory breaker, and 3) a feed to ALL audio equipment via a distribution block and proceeding breaker. You have plenty of depth on the studs for that. I have never found the depth of the Perko studs to be a problem because I am dead set against stacking more than three termination lugs on any post of any brand.
If you have an issue with the various cables clearing the switch body, just elevate the switch with simple spacers.
I would use a distribution block rather than the typical bus bar for this application because I don't want any connecting stud less than 5/16" diameter.
Most any distribution block with a 2-gauge 'in' and multiple 4-gauge 'out' will automatically provide the current capacity that you need....unless you have some pretty darn big amplifiers.
Thanks David. I'll definitely use your suggestions
I have a JL Audio marine amp for the cabin speakers - no idea what model and a Harpoon for the tower.
I was thinking a 1/4" stud, but I agree - probably go 5/16 or 3/8. Lots of that type around.
Mucho appreciate the response!
If you have time, please see my latest "checking capacitor" thread.
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