One Way To Fix Aerator Fill Pump Priming Issues

Anyone still using aerator pumps like me will like this fix. My rear bags fill fine, but I usually have issues with my IBS. I have found out why, and have come up with a simple and cheap fix. It is not the best solution, but it is easy, and it works. The problem is that the fill line for the IBS is long and does not completely drain when the boat is put on a lift or trailer. Water stays in parts of the line and causes an air pocket by the pump. When the boat is put back into the water, there is not enough head pressure to push the air past the water that is trapped in the line, and therefore will not allow water to enter the pump. By simply adding a capped vent to the fill line by the pump, you can vent out the air and allow water to enter the pump. The vent is made from a nylon 3/4" barbed tee, a nylon 3/4" barb to 3/4" male water hose, a 3/4" water hose cap, a short piece of 3/4" hose, and some clamps.

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You can see in the second pick where I placed the vent, and how easy it is to reach with the engine hatch open. As I stated before, if the pump does not prime, simply unscrew the cap and then screw it back on. At most, you will only have to do it once each time the boat is put back in the water.

I also have a tip for priming every aerator drain pump. Over fill your bag so that water comes out both the bag vent and the drain pump thru hull. This will force all of the air out of the bag, pump, and lines. The pump is now primed and reay to go.

Great stuff! I have had to unhook a line from time to time to let air out.

Nice tip! I'm curious if you could add a duckbill valve instead of the end cap and accomplish the same thing without having to remove it each time? Like the vented loops have...

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Originally Posted by bergermaister

Nice tip! I'm curious if you could add a duckbill valve instead of the end cap and accomplish the same thing without having to remove it each time? Like the vented loops have...

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I thought about that, but the duckbill won't work. It only lets air in. We need something that lets air out and not water. I need to copy the valve that wet vacs use. They have a plastic ball that floats up and seals off when water gets high enough in the canister. I need to find a plastic ball that is small enough to fit in a 3/4" hose, but big enough not to go through the fittings. Until then, I will just unscrew the cap when needed.

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I've always thought that it would be a worthwhile investment in plumbing in with a T one of the no longer used sprinkler valves (if you have the old style system) into the intake line and the also teeing the other side into the vent/drain line and putting it on a switch up in the dash somewhere. That way if you had problems priming the system you just open up the sprinkler valve from the dash without having to climb into the motor compartment and let it vent until you get water flowing and then close it back up to fill up the sacks. Instant priming without leaving the drivers seat.

Hey, now you're talking. But I've been trying to get rid of as many of those valves as I can cuz they are kind of unreliable. I'll have to think on this.