How do I feed two multi-channel amps from only two sets of preouts?

I just bought rgardipee's Kicker 08ZX700.5 5-channel amp (thanks for the great deal!) and I have a JL Audio M6600 6-channel coming. My plan is to run the six cabin speakers from the 6-channel JL and the four tower speakers and the sub from the 5 channel Kicker. My HU has two pairs of full range pre-outs plus one pair of sub preouts. So getting a signal to the sub is no problem. But how to I feed signal to the two multi-channel amps from just two sets of preouts? The JL will combine the signals from channels 1&2 and 3&4 for channel 5&6 so I just need two sets of pre-outs for it. And I will need two sets for channels 1 thru 4 on the Kicker.

Do I just use RCA "Y" splitters to split the signal? Does the signal voltage get split in half then? Although my pre-out signal is pretty decent at 4V, I don't like the thought of splitting them in half.

Short of buying two Clarion EQS746 EQ's, what are my options?

Thanks,

Al

You can get a wetsounds EQ. That will take care of the problem. Or you can do what I did. I got rid of the stock radio and purchased a new kenwood that works with my controls. It has 3 set of preouts. I use I have the kicker MX700.5 and the MX350.4. My 700.5 take two of the RCA and the 350.4 takes the last one. This way I have total control of the quality of sound coming out. I hate using a RCA Y-Connectors. They limit what you can so to tune in the sound.
Tazz

You either split the signal, install EQ's or just replace the HU with one with three preouts which might actually be cheaper.

he already has a deck with 3 preouts, so buying a new one would not gain anything. adding an eq would be one answer, but not real cost effective and not needed.

use one set of full range to feed the 4 channels of the kicker amp. use the sub output to channel 5 of the kicker amp. use the other 2 full range outputs and use a "y" adapter to split the 2ch to 4ch and power the jl with that, sending the same signal to all 6 channels(powering the 6 in-boat speakers). that would be the best way to do it, and how 90% of the stereo shops would do it. just be sure and invest in a quality set of cables. no radio shack here. I've done it before in an old car install. splitting the signal is the recommended way to do it in the jl manual.

by adding an eq, the only thing you will gain is the ability to take the one set of full range and send it to the multiple channels of the jl, allowing bow to cabin fading capability. if you think that's worth $289, then go for it. wiring it listed above would give you fading control of the sub and the tower/boat speakers independently, but would not allow you to fade the in-boat speakers. not a big deal imo, but it's personal preference. you could also add a volume attenuator inline with the bow speakers if you think they will be too loud. probably a $20-30 part.

the stumbling block here is that the jl needs 2 sets of inputs..


hope this helps..

Thanks guys. Sorry for the confusion caused by the title of the post. I did upgrade the HU a while ago to a Kenwood that has 3 sets of preouts with one of them being sub preouts. I didn't know that the 700.5 can take one pair of preouts and feed channels 1 thru 4 with it (I don't have the amp in my possession yet). So sounds like I need to use a splitter for the JL so that the one pair of preouts feeds all six channels.

Sandm, the Clarion eq is only a $55 item (I wouldn't spend the $$ on the WS eq) and in addition to the features you mention, it also takes the preout signal and boosts it to 7V while splitting it three ways. It also gives me the ability to control the volume output of one amp and the sub from the driver's seat.

Another question that comes to mind is, what does a capacitor do and do I need one of those?

Thanks again for the input, much appreciated.

Al, the Kicker has a little switch you have to enable for on set of inputs for all channels and your good.

Like sandm said just split to the JL amp.

A cap stores energy allowing you to have enough juice to run everything in case you overrun the system, you won't need one. We float more than ride and i've never drained a batt or had the amps go into protect and my system is rated right at 1600 watts peak. Of course i can't get anywhere near that before the wife beats me! :p

Thx razz, good to know. When u say you've never drained a battery, is that one battery or two? I only have one battery now and am wondering how long they will run both amps before draining. We will sometimes float for 2 hours at a stretch with the stereo on but not real loud (have the same issue with the wife :) ). Maybe I should upgrade to a higher capacity battery. I'd rather do that than add a second batt. I do carry a portable jump start unit on the boat in case I do drain the batt. Haven't had to use it yet.

Al your much better having two batts than one high cap batt. With one batt you take the risk even at low volume levels of draining the one batt to a level where the boat won't start, not good if you suddenly have to move! When your running multiple amps you really should separate them from the starting circuit by using a batt switch or something like i use, the Blue Seas ACR which keeps the batts charged without messing with them.

If you need additional info on how to do it and what you'll need let me know and i'll be more than happy to help.

Cab, Just get a portable jump start unit. One plus this has is when you see another boat on the water just floating becasue they ran their system too long you can just hand them the jump unit and not have to play with jumping their boat on the water.

if you are deadset against a second battery, get a good quality deep cycle, but if you are planning on parking a lot, the second battery is almost a must. my guess is that after installing 2 good quality amps that will draw a lot of current, you will be using that jumpstart. personally, the security of a second battery is worth it. getting a tow/jump sucks..

caps store energy and release it as the amps require it. your bass amp is usually the one that will draw the most current(hence the pulsing headlights in a high-wattage auto system). using deep cycle takes away some of the need, and since boats usually don't have all the other draws that a car does, caps usually are not needed.