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I will keep you posted when the part arrives but I have been told that this $3 Mercruiser part will do the same job as the $54 Heatercraft part.
I may have to adapt the hose from 5/8 to 3/4.
It would be nice to have warm air at idle.
Mercruiser 22-862993 WATER FITTING
Attachment 16785
Nice!.......Quote:
Originally Posted by Boonejeepin
i dont get it? how will this let you have heat at idle??
Improves water flow/heat when at idle..
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It goes in line before the raw water pump. The raw water pump pulls the water through the heater's outlet side allowing more hot engine water to circulate through the heater core.Quote:
Originally Posted by saskie99
I have to say im glad your only spending 3 or 4 bucks because i think you will be very disapointed.
The reason the heater is cold at idle has very little to do with water flow, or what part of the engine it comes from.
It has to do with as the engine idles it cools off because the ENTIRE lake is your radiator. As the engine idles it continues to pump or wonder cool water though the engine cooling it down below 120 degrees. Anytime the engine is cooler then 120 you physically wont feel heat.
This is the same principle and reason in your car you cant feel heat from the vents will the temp needle actually moves over 120.
Could be the 39 degree water we were pumping through it that day...
In cars the thermostat needs to open.
Correct and most dont start to open till 120 and completly open at 160.Quote:
Originally Posted by beat taco
In a boat you have a T state as well and even putting the Y before it your going to get cold water, its the engine working creating heat that is warming up that lake water so fast.
Give you an idea how much water flows through your engine its as low as 4 gallons a minute to 60 gallons a minute depending on how large the engine is, typical 5.7 is 8-15 GPM
I just figured out how you guys can warm up your water up there -- do more boating. You'll also need a few more boaters. And for gosh sakes, scrap the heaters and quit wasting heat out into the air.
Raise the idle setting.. Problem solved.. :D
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The circulation pump doesn't have enough flow & volume of water at idle to supply hot water to the heater (LSV) your theory of adding a Y before raw water will work marginally adding a booster pump will work best ,the engine temp should not drop at idle it should stay in optimal operating temp above 160 which is hot enough for heat .
Forgive me, i am confused on this subject. Where does the extra line coming off the wye go to? Just push in the transmission lockout to raise idle as suggested above.
Inline before the raw water pump.
Post # 4 in this thread.
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....Heater+fitting
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvotto
Thanks , it makes sense now