Rule 3700 GPH Pump

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e166adf253.jpg

I am wondering if I can replace my original Rule 2000 pump with this Rule 3700 GPH pump without having to do any rewiring. In other words, can I just use the existing wiring and simply connect it to the new pump. I have no experience with doing anything electrical and therefore am always skeptical about doing anything that would mean rewiring or changes to the electrical system. I was able to replace the old sprinkler valve manifold with a new pvc/motorized ball valve setup but that only required soldering the old deutsch connector to the wires on the ball valves and reconnecting.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...33ef8bb589.jpg

While this has worked well, I was thinking about adding another Rule 2000 pump off of a “T” like Kane and Newty had done years ago in order to decrease fill times but I found this pump and thought it might work as well as the 2 pump setup shown below.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...170478926d.jpg

If I was to do either of these, I would probably run new 1” hose to my rear bags in order to take advantage of the increased flow. By the way, my pvc manifold and ball valves are all 1”. Any advise on this would be greatly appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know how much more flow you will get with a bigger pump. Increasing the size of your lines does more than anything else. Adding additional thru hull intakes and 1" lines is the best way to go.

I added one in an 02 LSV back in 2006 with sprinkler valves and it did pretty good. The build and the timings are in the threads below.

Build Link:
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....ary-Fill-Ports

Timings Link:
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....nd-comparisons

Just note, that the actual model pump in your link, is a bilge pump, and will not work.

You would gain some flow rate increase, but those .75" fittings are always going to be the bottle neck, and create head pressure. IIRC, I think that pump's outlet is 1.5", so you will have to upgrade the outlet hose and manifold inlet. You would also likely want a 1.25" intake at least.

[QUOTE=MLA;338976]Just note, that the actual model pump in your link, is a bilge pump, and will not work.

I realized I had the wrong pump after I posted it but you get the idea.

My thinking was that those that added a 2nd pump off a “T” from a through hull got a significant reduction in fill times so wouldn’t adding a larger pump do the same thing. I do, however, understand there is only so much water that can come through a single through hull. Plan as well would be to increase the hose size from the pump to a new, larger manifold to allow maximum water to the system. Then also increase lines to the bags to at least 1”. There is always going to be a reduction in flow when running a single pump to fill 3 zones but I think this would speed things up from a single Rule 2000. I would love to add 2 thru hulls and pumps so each zone has its own pump but again, I’m not much of a do it yourselfer. My wife know this about me and would probably kill me if I got within 1,000 feet of the boat with a drill.

Quote:

---

those that added a 2nd pump off a “T” from a through hull got a significant reduction in fill times

---

Not likely. Remember that all this hardware and the pumps, are below the waterline. Due to the displacement of the hull, there is a small amount of positive water pressure entering the intake feeding the pumps.

Up sizing your intake, is more about making the physical pump connection to the intake, without a bunch of cobbled together adapters and fittings to get up to the pump intake size.

Drilling new holes below the water line isn't that bad - at least after you get past the first one!

I initially ran two T-1200 pumps off a T on a 1" thru hull and all 1" lines to bags. I found fill rates noticeably suffered when both pumps were running so within a couple seasons I ditched the T and went with dedicated 1" thru hulls to each fill pump. Much better setup for fill times although just as crowded in the bilge. Pumps did end up sitting a littler higher off the floor than they were with the T, but still no priming issues.

I would not do the T setup again unless you were going with 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" thru hull and manifold but that opens a whole new can of worms with space and adapters.

Yea, I think I ended up drilling 3 additional thru hulls. No big deal after the first one. Use a mushroom one with a shut off valve. With 1" lines, 2 to each side, you can fill like crazy. In fact, I had to upgrade my "empty" pumps b/c I got so spoiled with fill times.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kaneboats

With 1" lines, 2 to each side, you can fill like crazy.

---

How did you do 2 lines to each side???? Did you do a line from each pump and run 2 pumps to each side??? Also, did you use check valves to keep from each “zone” from passively filling???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's exactly right. Ended up with an intake and a pump and a check valve for each line. 4 total to the rears plus a single line going up front that also piggybacked to an IBS.