Would it help to add a Zinc Anode to the trailer to reduce rusting like they use on Boat Motors?
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Would it help to add a Zinc Anode to the trailer to reduce rusting like they use on Boat Motors?
mike,
thanks,That trailer was set up pretty godd. The drive gaurd was pinned on both sides so you could remove it, but still had lights on the inner support. Yes, when you get to the ramp you took it off and put the props on. With props at 6000 ea and about 60 grand hanginig on the back the last thing you want is some silver haired devil hitting it!!!
when I called the local paint jobber, they called dupont. my particular color(sunset orange) is a line of paint that require several catalyst agents to harden it. if you are a paintshop, no problem. average consumer looking to do some touchup, expensive problem. a quart of paint for around $50, but then between $2-250 for the hardeners and additives(something a paintshop will have laying around). they were able to compare colors and able to mix the paint in a similar line that did not require all the additives, but no one would guarantee color match since it's a different paint line. not saying all boatmate trailers are painted with this paint, but my color is.
not trying to defend or bash on boatmate trailers in any way, but imo, it's not a custom built trailer(like your other one, nor with a pricetag like that one), it's built assembly-line style for several dealers and the realistic fact is your trailer(just like mine) is the most basic trailer they make sitting under the most inexpensive boat from a "value line" brand. doesn't excuse quality and guessing yours is just a fluke, but I'm betting the problem will surface again by year 3. I'm not real happy about some of the things I see on my trailer, but I also know that I didn't buy an 80k skiboat. trailer companies are like car companies- there's escorts and navigators coming out of the same line.
It would be interesting to see what a custom trailer builder would charge compared to boatmate. betting they will be higher. granted better quality, but at a price. if they were able to offer the same powdercoated high quality trailer your elmo sat on for boatmate pricing, boatmate would be out of business and your builder would be running a large company making trailers for skiers choice :)
oh ya.. that boat is still real nice and betting it was a whole lotta different fun that what your current one does.. fast is fun..
That trailer under Elmo wasn't as expensive as people think. It has a lot of high dollar options that drove the price up ie electric jack, e o h brakes, storage box, battery aand drive guard. I paid 8 grand for that trailer but keep in mind the loa is 40 ft.
BM could build a better quality trailer if they just took a few more minutes in building it, that's based on the problems I had.
I would be fully willing to spend a little more money on a trailer that would last longer then 3 years. If in 3 years I have to spend 2 grand to get a new one why not spend a grand up front and never worry about it?
totally agree with you, but when you are talking a 38k boat and a 88k boat, that extra grand usually means a higher payment for the 38k guy and since there's already a trailer there, it's tough to build a value case. kind of like trying to sell a 5year extended warranty on a maytag washer that has a 5year warranty already :)
having worked in a production warehouse for 11 years, sure they can build a better trailer, but there's a cost to it. production is all about leaning out a facility and at this point, no one is pushing them to incurr those costs for a better product. if skiers were giving customers a choice: product a for 3k and product b for 5k, the customer would decide, but alas, we don't have a choice readily available.
Well my trailer doesnt have much of a problem with rust except for some places where it is scratched. my main concern is having an axle fail on a road trip and i think i may have a possible brake caliper sticking
Should the trailer wheels be warm to the touch after a drive with moderate braking, no mountain passes just some around town stuff? By warm I mean hot enough that you can warmth but cool enough that you can hold you're had on the wheel as long as you want.
I am curious if anyone knows any preventative maintenance for this problem? I always grease the bearings but if there is anything else to be done I would love the info.
Wondering same thing - mine wheels are always fairly warm to the touch as well while traveling. And I noticed when I had the trailer wheels up off the ground, they do not spin freely - I can get them turning but there is some definite resistance. Anyone else have experience with that?
I put my trailer up on blocks for the summer while the boat stays on the lift and I can spin the wheels pretty easy. The rotors do get some surface rust while it's sitting, but it comes off quickly with a short pull and breaking down some hills.