Outback V GI to GIII Ballast Upgrade

Over the winter I added two thru hulls, five Tsunami 800 pumps and a pair of 750's from Wakemakers to the rear of my OBV. I removed the stock Rule pump, solenoid, and strainer. I cut the scooper off my stock intake and added check valves to all three intakes. Because of our wonderful cold Michigan weather, I wasn't able to try everything out until a couple weeks ago. Everything worked as planned except for the fact that the boat was way too light up front. I had a feeling this was going to happen based on other forum user's suggestions. Because of this, I will be placing another order to Wakemakers very soon. Once I get my new IBS installed and tested, I will post pics of all my ballast and switch mods. My plan is to get it done in a couple of weeks.

Joe - My order from wakemakers is due to arrive in a couple of days. Have an 07 OBV wth a G1. Keeping that as is and I am adding 2 new reversable pumps to go along with a 750 in port locker, using a 450 I already own in the starboard locker, and adding an IBS. One pump will operate starboard and IBS. I am also in Michigan and could not get to boat in stoage to do over winter. Have stereo/amp and depth finder projects as well. Looking forward to your pictures as may have info I can use.

Mine is due tomorrow. I have been preping the boat since last Wednesday, and I plan on finishing everything by this Thursday. I need to get it done since we leave for the cottage on Friday. I plan to get pics posted by early next week. I believe you wanted to copy my switch setup. Where abouts in Michigan are you?

Sent from my Droid Charge using Tapatalk 2

I live in Grand Haven. Cottage is on Silver Lake - Hart, Mi (sand dunes). Yes this is my weekend project too. Boat delivered from storage this week and was going to post picture of current switch set up then.

I did gI to gIII upgrade last year, parts from wakemakers as well. I immediately knew what the first mod would be this year - new prop. Fully loaded mine struggled on the stock oj, if you guys haven't done this I would consider it. I wish I had re proped first haha

What was your stock prop/pitch, and what did you end up changing to?

Sent from my Droid Charge using Tapatalk 2

Started off with measuring and drilling two new holes in the bottom of the boat. I went with all 3/4" fills, drains, pumps and hoses.

Passenger side:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22221348.jpg

Driver side:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22221434.jpg

Closeup view of original scupper intake:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22221403.jpg

Closeup view of modified scupper intake:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22221420.jpg

I used a piece of threaded rod with nuts along with a spreader bar and wood blocks placed on either side of the scupper to remove it for modifications.

Besides cutting the scupper of the stock intake, I also shortened it:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26095756.jpg

The stock intake was way to long for my liking. I wanted the new pump to be as low in the boat as possible. As you can see in the pic, the thread for the flange nut ends just above it, and the tapered 3/4" pipe thread starts there. I used a bench grinder to grind down the O.D. to the required diameter needed for the pipe thread. I then cut new pipe threads with a pipe threading die. I also ran a drill up the center to open up the I.D. and clean up the casting.

Here are the three new Tsnumai 800 aerator pumps:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22221008.jpg

Passenger side drain pump hidden behind the wall of the engine compartment:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26095708.jpg

Driver side drain pump hidden behind the wall of the engine compartment:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26095659.jpg

I was worried about kinking the fill and vent hoses. To prevent it, I made an oval hole right next to the small carpeted cover at the front of each locker and just below the aluminum angle that goes front to back. I routered the edges so that the hoses would not get damaged.

Passenger side:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26095719.jpg

Driver side:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26095729.jpg

Here is the passenger side 750# bag completely full:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26131151.jpg

Driver side:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26131142.jpg

I was really happy with the way the 750's filled the lockers in my OBV.

I didn't want to cut any more holes, so I used the existing switch panel for my ballast switches. I removed the "COURTESY" and "DOCKING LIGHT" switches to make room for the two other ballast switches. I moved the "STEREO" switch over to the spot where the "COURTESY" switch was.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-23130507.jpg

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22205643.jpg

I moved the courtesy lights and docking lights over to the "NAV/ANC" switch. To get it to work like I wanted, I had to rewire the "NAV/ANC" switch. In its original configuration, pushing the top of the switch would turn on all the lights, and pushing the bottom of the switch would just turn the anchor light on. There is a diode on the back of the switch that controls this. Diodes are like one way check valves for electricity. First thing I did was flip the diode 180 degrees. I then wired the docking lights to the top side of the switch. The navigational, dash, anchor, and courtesy lights are all wired to the bottom side of the switch. I made a short pigtale so that I could reuse all the factory connectors. Now, pushing the top of the switch turns on all the lights except the docking lights, and pushing the bottom of the switch turns on all the lights. Wiring the switch like this keeps everything legal for night time boating.

Looks like you have it all together. I had a great day on Sat. and never gave props to Moombadaze for telling me to move my check valves further from the pumps and closer to the bag. My surf bag filled in under 5 min. with no priming issues following his advice. Setup looks good.

As I stated in the beginning, I needed more weight up front. The only problem was that I was running out of room. I carry 2 wakeboards, 1 kneeboard, 1 slalom ski, 1 pair of junior combo skis, 1 pair of adult combo skis, and soon a surfboard. I am getting new racks so that I can have a wakeboard and kneeboard on one side, and a wakeboard and surfboard on the other. I do not want to change to a storage bimini, and I do not want 5 skis hanging on my tower, so I made a decision. I removed the stock ballast bag and drain pump from the center ski locker. All 5 skis fit in there nicely. I then installed a new IBS with a provision to reuse the stock ski locker bag on top of the floor. I added a new length of hose to the center bag fill pump. It follows all the wiring across the fuel tank and up through the floor. I was worried about kinking the hose, so I added a fill port to the side of the IBS bag on the driver side using a white, 90 degree, 3/4" Seachoice thru hull part number 18131.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26085953.jpg

I then installed new Tsunami 800 drain pumps on each leg. The driver side drains out the original center sac drain on the driver side. The passenger side drains out a newly installed thru hull on the passenger side. I wired them both into the center fill/drain switch.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22205807.jpg

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-22205606.jpg

Here is the IBS full. You can also see the vent which runs to the passenger side and vents out another newly installed thru hull next to the drain.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...5-26100807.jpg

Looks pretty slick. Nice job.

Nice job even if you dont add the bag to the floor from the ski locker you will get more weight from that IBS, the bag in the center now would only make it better if you can stand to lose the walkway

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jstenger

What was your stock prop/pitch, and what did you end up changing to?

Sent from my Droid Charge using Tapatalk 2

---

Stock prop was the oj 4 blade, not sure of the model # or pitch but iirc it was listed as the oj wakeboard prop when I bought the boat in 2008. I upgraded to the acme 1847 and love it

I also have the stock oj prop on. It just does not want to get out of the water when loaded down. I have been thinking about the 1847 and the 1433 (wakemakers suggests this). Any ideas on which one is better?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by z28ke

Stock prop was the oj 4 blade, not sure of the model # or pitch but iirc it was listed as the oj wakeboard prop when I bought the boat in 2008. I upgraded to the acme 1847 and love it

---