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starting to show signs of wear and a little bubble on one so gonna replace before I have issues. I have trail America ST225/75/R15, load range D on their now. is this appropriate? I seem to remember reading somewhere the load range for our trailers should be E. is that correct or am I good with replacing with same size/load?
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I can't recall if trailer ties have that rating. They do have ST for trailer. E range is what you should run on your truck for towing.
I am bringing this back to life because I have several cracks on my current trailer tires and need to replace them before this season starts. I have Trail America ST Radials Load Range C ST205/75R14 currently. I googled the tire and immediately I see different results with the majority negative reviews on the tires. I even found this old thread on this forum from 2011: https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....-America-Tires
So I have a couple questions that I am hoping you folks can help me with:
1. Name a couple of trailer tire manufacturer's that you'd recommend I replace mine with (per that other thread I should look into Maxxis, never heard of them but I will). Also mentioned were Goodyear Marathons, a negative post but nonetheless the local Discount Tire has them for $91.00?
2. Where in the hell do I get these tires replaced at? Does the boat need to be off the trailer and I just take it to some tire place that can order me the proper tires and they'll do the mounting and balancing? This is my first boat, had it going on 4 yrs. now but have never had to replace trailer tires so this is totally new to me, bear with me.
Thanks
I recommend Kumho Radial 857. They have a D load range which allows for a higher weight rating which also will allow for higher speeds. They run 65 psi max air pressure. The tire size you need is 205R14C. I replaced my Carlisle set with these a few sesons ago and am happy with their performance so far. I learned about them on the MasterCraft forum.
http://www.kumhousa.com/tire/categor...E-E59335DE416C
Any tire shop will be able to do it for you with the boat on the trailer. They'll just use floor jacks instead of a lift. Work with one to get a tire you like. I'm sure you could also bring your own but that is part of their sales revenue so they'd likely charge you more for installation. Most tire shops stock trailer tires. I did my last set of Michelin's at the local Discount Tire. The previous owner put car tires on - they failed in spectacular fashion but that's another story.
I had good luck with Maxxis tires on my last trailer but I only ran them for two seasons before I traded up. As TeamAllen has mentioned, the Kumho D rated tires would be a great option as well (a little overkill perhaps... But that might be a good thing).
I saved a little coin by just taking my rims&tires in to the tire shop.
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Anybody tried these??
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....7-fc7ba16f0d0e
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaneboats
Those are the ones I have right now since the other 4 went out last summer.
I like them a lot so fare. I have about 1K miles towed on them. No issues, ride quite, no wear on them so fare.
I want to say I paid around 125 each then mount and balance. Those guys where fast too, it was like 1 hour to remove all 4, then replace mount and balance.
Same here but not sure mine are Load Range E... All good though.
Pay a little extra and get 'em balanced. Technically you don't need to (?) but why not considering what they're hauling.
Most trailer tires these days are made in China. That has been a great downfall in quality according to two tire guys i dealt with in the last two seasons. 2 seasons and two blowouts. One was Goodyear marathons which (used) to be considered decent tires and my other was a Carlysle. Both tires Made in China. Kinda hard to avoid, but if you can this is one thing to watch for.
The other thing i have really learned is KEEP pressure up to max or near max and something i also learned and i feel this has made a huge difference is to have the tires BALANCED. All 3 of my factory tires, which included my spare were not as for my first replacement as well. Since then tires are pumped full\balanced and they are trailereing better than ever. Fingers crossed....
Those tires in my size are right in my budget alley! (or at least what I want to pay for a trailer tire). May have to check them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by kaneboats
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes
When I replace the factoty supplied tires, I have used Maxxis, no issues.
I use tire rack all the time. Get them shipped right to the house. I call around and ask for prices for mounting/balancing. Sometimes if you pull your wheels off and bring them in you can get them done for $10-12 a tire.
Tires have a shelf life. Trailer tires are not high volume movers so check the build date.
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-...our-tires.html
took my boat up to a local tire dealership, 99 a tire and 50 bucks for mount/balance. guy backed trailer into bay and was done in an hour. don't recall brand thou
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Kenda is another brand that carries trailer tires.
I like that option, unfortunately they only have load range C tires for 14" wheels. Load range D & E are available for 15" wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by kaneboats
I hear your concern but you would be surprised how its not as important to have D or E on your trailer as you might think.Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamAllen
This is the ratings.
ST-Metric Trailer Service Tires
Load Range Ply Rating Markings Max Load Pressure
B........................4........35 psi (240 kPa)
C........................6........50 psi (350 kPa)
D........................8........65 psi (450 kPa)
E........................10......80 psi (550 kPa)
While E is the best you have to consider these tires are not Towing, they are being towed, so the forces on them are less then on your Truck.
Absolutely on your truck you should run D or E because not only are those tires supporting your truck when you go around corners they are getting side ways force applied from your trailer pushing and pulling on the rear of the vehicle.
Yes absolutely you can tow and have no issues with Lower rated then D tires < my new F150 has ST > not even tow rated tires but you will feel more sway from them and they wont feel as stable.
The larger D and E ratings are more commonly found on larger, 5th wheel trailers, large campers, and other trailers typically over 10K weight limits.
The Mojo is the heaviest in the Moomba line and even then its 4K empty, with 1200lb trailer so 5200 total then add fuel, gear, and your tipping 6K. Well with in the C weight limit of the trailer tires.
...and if you have tandem axles, the load is 1/4 that per tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
Good info Mike thanks. I was wondering why I kept seeing people say you need a D/E class tire when I had C and they've working fine for me over the past 3.5 years. And I do have a tandem trailer
One of the benefits of going with a higher load range tire, as I understand it, is the higher air pressure allows for more heat which allows for higher speeds. C rated tires are 65mph max. I would imagine some tow at speeds higher than that? I do.
This is the MC thread I learned about the Kumho tires. Post #147 page 15 states the tire has a Q speed rating = 99 mph.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=32154&page=15
I like that it gives you a higher safety factor. Over the top? Maybe?
This is the exact link to those tires
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....4857&tab=Sizes
Looks like a great tire. I would go with D range if its my option to buy tires.
Last summer I didn't consider it MY OPTION it was required at a fuel stop LOL.
I am lucky enough in OR that our speed limit it technically 60 for trailers, but we can go 65 without to much law enforcement issues.
I have pulled my boat as fast as 90 passing people.
When we went on the trip to AZ I tended to stay around 70 most of the time even with a speed limit of 75 most of the way.
I found at 70 I was going faster then your average semi so I could choose when to pass them, but not being ran over by regular cars.
Rating is a comparable to bias plys and its directly related to capable pressures which can translate to a stronger tire and higher weight capabilities but not always, the max load rating is the definitive identifier of capable weight of each tire. You don't want to have a way over rated tire that have a very stiff ride that is going to beat the crud out of your boat unnecessarily and cost more.