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I am trying to get my blue sea add a battery all wired up today. I have got a wiring diagram that Al (cab13367) posted about his install. My question is with the diagram that Al drew up, are we looking at the back of the switch like I have pictured or is it the front? I assume it is the back. I just want to make sure. Thanks for your help.
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/c...4C97BF6CD2.jpg
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/c...4CA49202B0.jpg
You got it!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/31/u9amuveb.jpg
In the picture that Al did and Jake posted.
Its referenced to how the batteries hook up as to the direction of the switch.
In Als drawing its as if you looking from the SWITCH side facing you.
Jakes drawing is the same but looking at the back of the Switch.
I guess to make it simple.
Hold the Switch facing you as if you were going to Turn it. Then wire it up like Als drawing.
Now the orientation between the relay and switch does matter. We reverse the relay to the side of the switch opposite of the battery side versus the Blue Sea instructions.
But I'm wondering why you are concerned with the directionality of the dual circuit switch. In the 'On' position both #1 to #1 posts are closed and the same for #2 to #2. In the 'Both' position the two circuits are simultaniously closed and combined. So I don't see why the switch input and output would be differentiated.
David
Mike,Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
That is what I thought, thanks for the clarification. That is how I wired it.
I finally got everything wired up. I'm still having an issue. I wired it just like the diagram that Al posted. The problem that I am having is that the led light on the ACR is flashing which I believe means "Isolated start isolation" according to the manual. My head unit won't turn on because of this. If I turn the Dual Circuit Plus switch to the "on" position with my remote power wire from the head unit connected to the remote wire from the switch on the dash the ACR will flash and the head unit won't turn on. Now if I disconnect that wire and turn the Dual Circuit Plus switch to the "on" position and wait for the led to turn solid, I can connect the remote wire from the head unit and it will work, until I switch the Dual Circuit Plus switch off and then back on. It resets itself to the flashing led. I hope all that makes sense. If anyone has any ideas of what to try next I would love to hear them. Thanks for the help guys.
First off, is it a slow flash or a fast flash? A slow flash indicates isolation, and should only happen when the engine is cranking. A fast flash indicates that one or both of the batteries is below 9.5 volts. Did you accidently hook the start isolation wire to the "run" side of your ignition instead of the "start" side?Quote:
Originally Posted by moombacraze
Sorry to bring up an old thread but figured this was better than starting my own as I'm sure this has been discussed a few times.
I have a Blue Sea switch that I've had for well over a year now uninstalled and it's high time I do it, and do it before I leave for South Carolina as my dad is the one who helps me with this kind of crap because I just do not know anything about this (he was the one who helped me wire up my amps and Pro80's).
So the above two images will certainly help for the wiring piece, but what I'd like to know is if someone would be kind enought to take a few pictures from a couple different angles to show me their whole setup and wiring? I'm a visual person and it would help me to understand how I need to do this. I am tired of having to shut off my stereo for fear of it draining my starting battery and I have an extra battery just sitting in my garage I bought last year that has been ob a trickle charger.
I'd appreciate any pics that someone is willing to throw up!
Edit: I just found this post so I'll check this out too: https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....attery-Install
THanks.
Which switch do you have, the traditional dual battery switch or the dual-circuit plus switch? With there be an ACR? Is an on-board charger part of the plan as well?
Kurt, I just saw this. Did you get this issue resolved?Quote:
Originally Posted by moombacraze
Al,
I got it figured out. I had forgotten to put the jumper from battery 1 to battery 2. Once I added that everything worked great. Thanks for checking back.
Good to hear. I kinda felt responsible since you were following my diagram :)
The model # is 9100e? Ill have to take a picture tomorrow. No clue what am ACR is, and no there will not be an inboard charger at this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Thanks for replying to my pm Al.
I have to figure out a parts list other than the switch and some wire.
I may just end up paying to have this done when I get down to SC, too much going on with the move.
Where in SC are you moving to?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigars n scotch
The 9001E is a traditional OFF/1/BOTH/2 switch. an ACR is an Auto Combining Relay as illustrated in the diagrams above.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigars n scotch
Most likely settling in Fort Mill by Lake Wylie. We're renting in Charlotte for 3 mos while we look for a house.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Wylie is my home lake. Im just over the SC state line in NC and 15 minutes from the north end of the lake and 30 from the south end. Welcome to the area. 9 months of boating for the average and year round for the hard core.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigars n scotch
Good call and good luck with the move!Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigars n scotch
I have the 13 mojo2.5 and was wondering if I can run the SI wire to the starter or does it have to be wired to the key switch if anyone can help me out that would be great thanks!!
Riddle,
The SI terminal on the Blue Sea 7610 ACR needs to see battery voltage ONLY when the start is engaged. Exactly where you draw this from is not as important. But in all honestly, its a circuit thats rarely needed.
Ok so it wouldn't matter where it came from then .........so rarely needed as in I don't really have to hook it up? I seen on the package it said optional but was worried it may mess something up if I didn't use it ?
The SI, starter-interrupt, isolates the house loads from the main cranking during starting. This is a feature to prevent voltage sage to sensitive electronic equipment like a chart plotter, etc. In most cases, we find that due the stereo load, the house battery is already down below the voltage threshold and the ACR is already open.
I originally installed the SI circuit thinking it was a great idea. What I found out is that all of the prongs on the back of the key switch are hot when the boat is on, not just when it's cranking. So, it's best not to use this as your SI circuit as it won't operate properly, and the ACR won't charge your house battery, only the starter, as it thinks it's supposed to constantly isolate the starter battery. Found this out after the house batt died several times.
I don't think it's necessary, and I have just removed the fuse from the circuit, so it's totally out of play now. I'd just not even worry about it. The best way to wire it though, if you want it, is to hook it to the starter, as it'll only see voltage when starting, which is how this circuit was designed.
Ok I got it all hooked up now on my 13 mojo all that wire needed was ran back to the starter and hooked onto the starter where the yellow and red wire was hooked on....this is the same wire that comes out of the switch this is a lot better location being there is no cutting or splicing wires!! ......the set up works great!!