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How do you know or test if you speakers are damaged or blown? Noticing more distortion latley at higher volumns - just seems that I cant get the power I had before, but not sure if settings were inadvertantly changed. Also with 10 speakers plus a sub, how does one test each speaker to determine they are not damaged?
Yes there are several ways you can test the speakers. Give us a little more info on what your setup looks like. Your overall stereo, and which speakers are in question. Then we can talk smartly to you.
-Brian
Exile Audio
My system is the stock package that came with my 2009 LSV in that it includes 2 Kicker Amps, Kicker SUB, Roswell tower speaker/light combo with Kenwood Speakers and a Kenwood head. Sorry, dont know the model off the top of my head. The LSV has 6 speakers in the boat and 4 on the tower.
Bjames,
Isolate and listen to one speaker at a time for any noises that are foriegn to the program material.
Smell the speaker up close for any evidence of a burnt voice coil. It will have an unmistakeable odor.
Check all the speaker impedances individually with a multi-meter for any variation in impedance from speaker to speaker. All should be +/- 10 percent.
Gently press in on the midbass cone looking for voice coil friction. Be careful to do this in an even manner so that you are not causing the contact.
Completely cover up and uncover the tweeter only while playing to verify that each tweeter is still operational. You'll have to get your ear close and do this one speaker at a time.
Visually inspect the speaker for a warped cone , weathered surround, separated spider to cone/former joint, glue failure at the perimeter of the spider and surround or any other physical failure.
Verify that the spider still offers some very small degree of mechanical resistance and that it isn't totally fatiqued and floppy.
A speaker is a really simple device. Its basically a cone, coil and a spring. If none of these inspections reveal anything definitive then start looking at other components and causes. If you have a legit problem other than fatiqued ears you'll want to correctly diagnose the issue before randomly replacing equipment.
David
Earmark Marine
Bjames,
Determine whether the six in-boat speakers are powered by an external amplifier or the source unit.
Definitely check the voltage and main supply connections. Any meaningful diagnoses is impossible without good voltage. You'll want to see 12.5 volts at rest.
David
Earmark Marine
Bjames,
Isolate and listen to one speaker at a time for any noises that are foriegn to the program material.
Smell the speaker up close for any evidence of a burnt voice coil. It will have an unmistakeable odor.
Check all the speaker impedances individually with a multi-meter for any variation in impedance from speaker to speaker. All should be +/- 10 percent.
Gently press in on the midbass cone looking for voice coil friction. Be careful to do this in an even manner so that you are not causing the contact.
Completely cover up and uncover the tweeter only while playing to verify that each tweeter is still operational. You'll have to get your ear close and do this one speaker at a time.
Visually inspect the speaker for a warped cone , weathered surround, separated spider to cone/former joint, glue failure at the perimeter of the spider and surround or any other physical failure.
Verify that the spider still offers some very small degree of mechanical resistance and that it isn't totally fatiqued and floppy.
A speaker is a really simple device. Its basically a cone, coil and a spring. If none of these inspections reveal anything definitive then start looking at other components and causes. If you have a legit problem other than fatiqued ears you'll want to correctly diagnose the issue before randomly replacing equipment.
David
Earmark Marine
Thanks for the detailed information. I will check each one as recommended and also doulble check my amp set up. thanks David