Winterize 2019 Mojo Questions

I am getting ready to winterize my 2019 Mojo with the Indmar Raptor 400 and have some questions. I have pulled much information from many posts on this site but still had some questions. Below are the steps I plan to do and my questions. This is the first year with inboard / ballast so a bit different from my older I/O engine. Thanks in advance for any pointers.

Steps:
1. Add fuel stabilizer
2. Run until operating temperature
3. Change engine oil / filter, transmission, and v-drive oil
4. Drain /winterize ballast pumps (many questions below)
5. Drain & clean strainer
6. Drain 5 of 5 locations (3 wing nuts, cross hose, and impeller plate)
7. Replace 5 of 5 drain locations
8. Hook up 5 gallon bucket with RV antifreeze to strainer inlet and start boat for minute until antifreeze comes out exhaust
9. Fog engine cylinders through spark plugs and crank engine
10. Disconnect & remove battery

My questions:
1. What is the best way to winterize ballast pumps? I have read to disconnect the bags and run the pump for a short time to drain, or to run antifreeze through, or to take cover off of impellers to drain water. If I run antifreeze through, where do I put it into or suck it from (especially for the center tank)? If anyone has pictures that would be great! I have had the back compartment panels off to see the pumps but don't see an easy location to disconnect and add antifreeze.

2. The impeller plate sides appears to be painted over and might be difficult to remove. Is this common for the first time? Any recommendations?

3. When I start up after draining water the impeller will be running dry for a short time until the antifreeze gets to it. Is this a problem or ok? I plan to replace the impeller in the spring after initial start up that way it isn't sitting compressed all winter.

4. The Raptor 400 engine has 16 spark plugs (2 per cylinder). Can I just fog in the 8 spark plugs located on the sides of the engine? This should coat all 8 cylinders with the oil. Or is there a need to fog into all 16 spark plugs.

5. I have the heater option and believe this runs off of the closed cooling loop and nothing has to be done to winterize this. Is this correct?

6. Am I missing anything critical for winterizing or at the end of the first year (84 hours)?

Here for the answers

Per Step #3, doesn't the manual call for tranny and vdrive fluids at 300 hours?

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Originally Posted by MJHSupra

Per Step #3, doesn't the manual call for tranny and vdrive fluids at 300 hours?

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The manual states every 300 hours or annually, whichever occurs first.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BKun

1. What is the best way to winterize ballast pumps? I have read to disconnect the bags and run the pump for a short time to drain, or to run antifreeze through, or to take cover off of impellers to drain water. If I run antifreeze through, where do I put it into or suck it from (especially for the center tank)? If anyone has pictures that would be great! I have had the back compartment panels off to see the pumps but don't see an easy location to disconnect and add antifreeze.

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If you have ballast bags and pumps, you can disconnect the lines and run some air through them to get the water out.

If you have easy access to the pumps, it's easy to unscrew the brass screws to get any water out. My old Supra was like this. Each year until I would take the impellers out, coated them in lube, stored the in a zip lock bag. Reinstall in the spring.

Easy to disconnect and empty bags.

Remove water from 1) lines 2) pump & 3) bags.

Never messed with antifreeze. If I I had hard tanks, that might be different.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BKun

2. The impeller plate sides appears to be painted over and might be difficult to remove. Is this common for the first time? Any recommendations?

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I just changed mine last weekend - main water pump impeller. There are 4 brass screws, pretty sure 5/16. Cover should come right off. Or a flat head screwdriver will help

Hardest part about changing is getting the dang thing out. Spray it with WD40 and bump the motor a few times. Once it states coming out, I grabbed it with needle-nose. A paint can opener also helps. Best tool to have is an impeller extractor, but not necessary.

Change the white gasket. Do not over-tighten the brass screws when reinstalling.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BKun

The manual states every 300 hours or annually, whichever occurs first.

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Makes sense. Easy to perform with an extractor. Cheap to buy the fliuds.

Some will say annual. Some will swap every 2/3 years depending on use. Your boat, your call.

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Many different opinions, but on these engines with cat converters -- my opinion shared by many is to not worry about fogging.

You are correct on heater - do nothing.

Do you not a have a on-board battery tender? If yes, don't unhook battery just plug in for winter trickle charge and battery maintenance.

** If you have a screw on oil filter -- check to make sure the old one comes off WITH the gasket. (Ask me how I know).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BigOrange

Many different opinions, but on these engines with cat converters -- my opinion shared by many is to not worry about fogging.

You are correct on heater - do nothing.

Do you not a have a on-board battery tender? If yes, don't unhook battery just plug in for winter trickle charge and battery maintenance.

** If you have a screw on oil filter -- check to make sure the old one comes off WITH the gasket. (Ask me how I know).

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So true. Goes back to threads like this:

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....g-raptor-motor