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Curious as to where everyones driplessis T'd in? Mine was off my exhaust quick connect. It started leaking again so I T'd into the thermostat housing to rear cat exhaust dump hose as this line stays cool and was easiest. There was not enough clearance between tranny cooler drain and alternator to come off there. So far the dripless is dripless as the vesconite housing is not expanding due to hot exhaust water
Hmmm i'll have to check mine. Season four now without issue but it sure won't hurt to look either. Thanks
Anyone here?
On my '10 LSV it is coming from the drain plug of the transmission cooler.
Here is a pic of the setup at the cooler. I dont know if the drain is after the cooler screen or not. I would hope so, but I have also inlet strainer before the vdrive.
That's awesome. I see yours is tight to the alternator. Not sure if I even have that much clearance on my 09. Thanks for the pic. I have a strainer as well so I see no reason I couldn't flip the cooler and have the drain at the topQuote:
Originally Posted by mcdye
BTW there is no screen in the tranny cooler it is honeycomb thru out so it does not matter which way it faces. Talked to indmar on this. Thanks againQuote:
Originally Posted by mcdye
I won't bother posting pic as I don't think the DD will help you much? But I can if you want.............
I'm thinking about re-routing mine to the transmission cooler like McDye, as mine is currently plumbed how DOCDRS describes his. My question is: Is there a concern on how the hose is routed? If the cooling water is gravity fed, I'm assuming you have to make sure that the hose is routed so that the water does have to go up at any point. Am I thinking about that correctly?
Mine is t'd into the exhaust manifold quick disconnect line. I'll probably move it one day to a cooler water source.
I have noticed that the hot water drains out on to the prop crossbar on the trailer and has removed the paint when it drains down through he seal due to the very hot temps.
how often do you run the boat on the trailer?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boonejeepin
The hot exhaust water drains out when we put the boat on the trailer from a day on the river. I don't run on the fake a lake very often.
Attachment 14575Attachment 14576
Do you guys have a bone dry bilge with the dripless t'd off the exhaust quick disconnect?
I do not. But the source is hard to determine with melting ice dripping from the cooler and water coming in from watersports.
i dont see how you can have a "bone dry" bilge. even this winter i vacuumed all the water out of mine and towell dried it and on the drive from the house to the storage unit some water washed from some hidden area and got into the bilge and it was all wet by the time i got to storage...this was with the boat on the trailer. now im fairly confident my ballast bag fittings leak a little, couple that with people climbing in and out dripped water every where all the time and my boat is NEVER dry in the bilge. i launch it and look in the engine comp and there are no obvious points where water is coming while running.
Replaced my packing gland with an OJ dripless seal. Kit included a tee to connect the seal cooling line into the raw water hose going to the thermostat housing. No leaks and no adjustments for over 5 years.
Should be getting mine back from the dealer this week with new dripless installed. What sold me is the "no messing with it" for 4 years or so. I'll let you know what/where they tie the water line into. Hoping it's not something I'll want to change...
My bilge is never bone dry for the same reasons mentioned above; the maintenance free (or close to it) part is what I like.
Question - does having the dripless add another step to winterizing - another line to disconnect?
No extra winterizing step (if doing a dry style winterization) if installed correct. The water self drains down through the seal.
If you use rv antifreeze. Then you'll need to block the line or you'll just shoot the antifreeze out the bottom of the boat through the seal's cooling line.
Got it home and did a little inspecting. From the dealer my new dripless "upgrade" was tied in to a water line between the impellor and manifold. Just uses a clear tube to feed the seal which seems to me like a point of failure due to heat. I guess time will tell.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../dripless2.jpg
Can see where it gets it's feed on the right.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...less-feed1.jpg
I was actually a bit surprise how wet and dirty it was in the bilge area when I got it back. Thought this thing was supposed to be dripless?!
Berg,
That's exactly how mine is installed. No problems for 4 years now.
I am not sure how that type of tubing will hold up. As you mentioned it will be exposed to more heat and will have pressure applied to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bergermaister
There should be no dripping in the blige coming from the new dripless shaft system.
There will be no heat. Cool lake water is heading thru that tube. Dry up your bilge , then put it in the water , there should be no water coming in from around the shaft seal. If there is then the seal was compromised during installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by bergermaister
I'll definitely look into it when I get on the water. I think it was a little dirty when it went in but mostly the dealer not cleaning up after themselves.
I just changed my 08 lsv dripless feed from the factory designed hot water supply on the exhaust manifold to a cool water supply, like others have shown it done on newer models.
My oil cooler also has a drain on the bottom (like most do, I'm sure), so I plumbed the line to that. I could not find the exact barbed fitting that I needed in the little town I live in, but I did find that a npt air valve fitting fits perfectly. I removed the valve insert to allow the water to flow freely. The nice thing about the npt air valve is that it is small, so it allows the supply line to clear the alternator, which might not have worked with the normal barbed fitting I had in mind for the job.
I had to crank down on the hose clamp to ensure that the supply line would seal well on the short npt valve, but it worked out fine.
Once I had the correct parts, the job itself took all of 15 mins or so.
Hmm, this thread has me thinking about doing what you just talked about Highrider. Might not be a bad move to change the location of the water pickup from where it's located now (factory location).
I don't have any issues currently with leaking or anything, so I'm not sure if I should mess with it... but I do like the idea of cool water running in the dripless seal versus hot manifold water.
Pictures???Quote:
Originally Posted by moombahighrider
Sent from my iPhone
I didn't take any photos but I can the next time I pull the cover off. Maybe this weekend?