stereo upgrade - need help

I've got a 2007 outback, with the standard kenwood and 6 speakers. I want to add tower speakers, and possible a subwoofer.

To this end, I've purchased MTX tower speakers, a MTX 4-channel (300/900)amplifier, a deep cycle battery (my other is a standard starting battery), and a stinger 200 amp battery isolator. I've gone back, looked at several dual battery threads, as well as Amp installed, but am still unclear on a few things. My over-all goal is to allow use of the stereo, at times when the motor may be off, but also knowing that even when running, I may need the 2nd battery just to keep up with the new amplifier (the amp may draw more than the alternator is putting out).

1. I basically plan on keeping the kenwood stereo as is, with the exception of running 2 leads (rear left and right) to the new amp.

2. As for the dual battery - should the deep cycle be the primary, with the starting battery in isolation until key is turned? (that way I'd be able to run stereo (minus amp) when motor off, without to much drain).

3. Should the amp be wired to the 2nd battery (through an accessory switch), and what amp breaker should be between the amplifier and the battery?

4. WHat's the best way to run the cable to the speakers, and what cable should be used. I do have to lower and remove my tower for storage, so I was lloking at a weathertight 4-connector male plug, and a female adapter to mount on the boat. But looking into the wiring, the amplifier suggests 12 AWG, and the cable for a 4 conductor, 12 awg is over a 1/2 in thick. Is it permissible to drill that large of a hole in the tower to run the cable inside? It seems kind of large. Any suggestion/direction is most welcome, and as always, thanks for your help in advance.

Hodag

I'll try and give you a hand here;

1. I basically plan on keeping the kenwood stereo as is, with the exception of running 2 leads (rear left and right) to the new amp.

Not quite sure what you mean by (rear left and right)? You mean RCA cables from the back of the head unit (HU) to the amp to drive the tower speakers? If so yes you can do that. Is there another question on that one?

2. As for the dual battery - should the deep cycle be the primary, with the starting battery in isolation until key is turned? (that way I'd be able to run stereo (minus amp) when motor off, without to much drain).

The starting battery (group 24) is and should always be the primary batt and the deep cycle (group 27) your secondary. That way it will work as you described. I would recommend the Blu Seas 7650 ACR kit instead of the Stinger ISO as it also adds a perko style off/on/combined switch in case of emergency. However you can still add a perko if you wish.

3. Should the amp be wired to the 2nd battery (through an accessory switch), and what amp breaker should be between the amplifier and the battery?

Not neccessary to wire to accessory switch as the amp will turn on through a on/off remote lead from the HU, See above #3. Match the breaker amps to your amp, example amp = 40 amps then use a 40-50 amp breaker on the primary wire to the deep cycle batt within 18" of the battery. Use 4ga wire when connecting the batts together and 8ga from a dist block to the amp.

4. WHat's the best way to run the cable to the speakers, and what cable should be used. I do have to lower and remove my tower for storage, so I was lloking at a weathertight 4-connector male plug, and a female adapter to mount on the boat. But looking into the wiring, the amplifier suggests 12 AWG, and the cable for a 4 conductor, 12 awg is over a 1/2 in thick. Is it permissible to drill that large of a hole in the tower to run the cable inside? It seems kind of large.

Drill a 1/2" hole in your tower at the top to run the speaker wire down. There is no correct place to drill as it depends on your speaker setup. Try to think about future upgrades though. I drilled mine on the back of the forward cross tube near the tower light. Drill two more 1/2" holes on either side of the forward tower hinge point making sure your not drilling into the reinforcing plugs for the hinge in the tower, measure the other side to verify. There should already be a hole through the hull and a hole in the bottom of the tower into the port storage compartment, check first as i've heard some don't have it.

Use 16 gauge speaker wire with the thinnest jacket you can find, it will pull through no problem. Make sure to debur the holes you drill first so you don't pull the jacket off the wire. I pulled four 16 gauge wires through mine no problem. Use the same flex cover that is on the other side, just 1/2" stuff and it will be ok.

Hope this helps you out.

Thanks, Razzman, the water is becoming clearer!

Hey Razz i wanted to run this buy you. See if you think this sounds right.

Not trying to hijack your thread Hodag but i think this fits in and might help you as well.

I have the 08 LSV.

Stock came with 1 battery and i decided to option a sub woofer and duel batteries. My goal as i stated to them was i want to be able to hang out in the boat jamming out as much as i want and if the batter gets drained then be able to start my boat still. Paddled my dads boat a few times from a dead batter and it sucked and it was old speed boat weighting fare less then our Moomba's lol.

Anyhow there's a switch by my batteries. Battery1, Both, Battery 2.

Here how it works after much headache and trial and error.

Battery 1 is the factory Primary and runs the HU and starter along with all the boat accessories. Battery 2 has the Sub amp wired to it.

This is my findings after some headaches.

Switch Battery 1. Boat charges only battery 1 everything runs normal. After 10 hours or so sterio went to crap. Lost the sub completely and all my main speakers sounded low and muddy and the main amp was cutting off with only 20 on the deck volume.

Result = Battery two went dead because it wasn't getting charged. Charged it with my computer controlled charger worked great fixed all my stereo issues.

Switch Battery 2 Runs the boat and stereo just fine. I can run this till it kills that battery. Change switch to Battery 1 the boat starts right up. Batter 1 was at 50% though.

Now the thing that makes no since to me i guess is the switch in Battery 1 or 2 only charges that battery and still drain the other battery respective to its original wiring set up.

SO i was told on the water to keep the batteries in Both position this will charge both batteries and when i want to sit with no engine and listen tot he stereo for more then a few hours to change the switch to Battery 2 only.

That would be about right and unfortunately the very reason i hate perko switches. Also hence the reason i run the Blue Seas 7650 ACR kit. To me and most people, a perko switch is just a plain pain in the rear! If you forget to switch just once you can screw yourself. An isolator or (preffered) ACR does all that for you and still leaves you the disconnect option and emergency combining. Save yourself the headache and switch!

Thanks Razz ill be looking into where i can get one of these ACR's you mentioned. Do they come with instructions how they hook up? If not im sure i can find something to direct me.

Not sure about the instructions but looks like discount inboard marine has the blue sea system for $150. Thinking about getting one myself. Looks rather simple to hook up. http://skidim.com/images/20308.jpg

http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BSS7650

Realistically their not hard to install, the instructions are a bit confusing though. I had to call them about something if i remember right. But it's worth it, the least hassle system you can get imo. Go to the 7650 page on their site and you can see the install directions under documents.

I will need to go look at mine again and get some Pics for you. Mine looks very similar to those now that im seeing pics of them. I might already have that system. Not positive. Wont know till later Fierah is in the street under her cover heat drying the interior from the rains last week when i left her out without the cover.

Well, things are coming together nicely, wiring is done, all I have left to do is mount the amp, and make the final connects.

Question: I plan on mounting the amp behind the passenger seat, in a spot which is lined with carpeting. Can the amp be installed directly over, or should I create some space between the two (amp and carpet)?

My first thought is carpet on the inside walls generaly means thats the hull and you wont want to mount there. Theres ribs for the framming and thats where i would mount to. I know im my boat the amps are mounted to a board that has matching carpet so you can get the amps secure with 4 bolts. Then that panel is mounted with 2 screws to a rib that is under the passenger dash.

Same issue though, does the amp mount directly on the carpet, or should there be spacers?

i am getting ready to mount my amp. I have picked up a cutting board ($10) from Wallyworld (cant find starboard locally) going to mount the amp and hardware to it and then use the bolts that are from the bow seat backing. they stick trhu about 1.5 inches. since you should not have to mess with it , will be up and out of the way. just have to get the wife to crawl in there, a little tight for me. :)

That's the same spot I was thinging, and the cutting board sounds like a good idea

yup sounds good to me also. You can put some spacers there if you want but not really needed the amp shouldnt have air vents on the bottom anyhow. It should have a side fan or vents on the top for cooling.

Here is a post I started, may have some helpful info:
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?t=7315

Mcdye,

I did the cutting board thing for my amp. It worked great. I bolted mine behind the passenger seat on the port side in the space between the inner and outer hull. I wired it before I installed and don't get me wrong it was a pain. The nice part about that location is that it is totally hidden from site, protected from everything, takes up zero useable space, and just by poking my head in the large hinged door compartment I can see all of my amp controlls.