http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...668#post466668
It's down the first page a bit.
Saw this link over on WW fwiw
spencer from wake makers pointed it out under fat sac repair section on WW.
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http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...668#post466668
It's down the first page a bit.
Saw this link over on WW fwiw
spencer from wake makers pointed it out under fat sac repair section on WW.
well that is something I never would have thought of
Where did he get the kit to add a hole/fitting?
Joe,
If you find those fittings, I'd like a pair as well. I'd like to vent my front bag for sure.. rear, not as much an issue. looks like I'll be trailering much more this year... so I better have a plan to deal with it!
I think its a standard Flo rite thu hull fitting in the opposite way
https://www.flow-rite.com/product/34...ht-flanged-nut
This would also help out those guys that have the older integrated bow sacs with only 3 ports.
To me that fitting looks like a standard thru-hull mounted with the "pretty" side inside the sac. I guess that will work as long as it will fit through the existing sac hole. Seems like a lot of work to have it fill faster. I would have just used one bigger pump maybe?
This doesn't help it fill faster, it allows air to escape to fill with water better and lows it to drain better and more completly.Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUmoomba
Thanks for posting this. This will be added to my list
I have 4 of the plastic threw hulls if people are wanting them. I have them from when the boat was new. They have just been collecting age in a drawer in my tool box.
Should I send you and envelope with an envolope inside that with stamps inside of that?
Lol. No, but for real...
Haha that was dam funny bro.Quote:
Originally Posted by dusty2221
3 are spoken for so I got 1 left unless I locate more. Pm me an adress I'll mail one to you if 1 will help
Finally got to it. seems like i am in the middle of mutiple mods, but this was quick and easy.
find a spot on the middle of the bag where you want your vent. draw an outer ring of the thru hull and then a smaller one on the inside, i traced the inside circle of the nut. Next blow out the bag so you don't cut through the bottom layer. Use scissors, i used a utility knife, ( it cuts too fast) almost too big as well. made me move my circles...cut a circle slightly bigger than the small inner circle . check the thru hull to push it thru, if it does not fit, trim a little more. make sure its round. once it fits put some water proof silicone on the inside flange, pop thru add some more silcone on the top, tighten down the nut, wipe any excess off, let dry....:D
sorry i only took the finshed pic, but there is detailed pics above in another boards thread.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...o/IMAG0197.jpg
Looking good man looking good, glad to see my threw hulls being repurposed. I always hate throwing things away that are in perfect shape and im glad they got to go out to fellow members to be reused.
if you dont have any thru hulls laying around here is a low profile fitting(the poly pro fittings)..
http://www.koienterprise.com/Bulkhea...ngs-p-427.html
http://www.koienterprise.com/images/...ries/C427.jpg]
Mike, the stock thru hulls are barbed whereas the flowrite one accepts a quick connect. So the thru hulls can be used for this but it won't be as easy to disconnect the fill hose from the fitting.Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
jm,
Good find!
Al
Mike, Al,Quote:
Originally Posted by cab13367
Yes i did reuse your thru hulls but i used one for the ibs starboard side. I forwarded two of them to board member 04outback as i needed one and we are very close. al i s right i used the flow rite on the bag for the quick connect purposes. as well as one will go in on the port side with quick connect hard to get to for the hose clamp up near the batteries.
Joe, how did this work out for you? Has anybody else given this a go?
I think I want to add a 4th port to my surf bag and possibly a fourth one to my center bag. The 4th one on the surf bag is so I can still vent while using the two others for filling from two separate lines (and the bottom one for drain).
I don't need to add one of these to the center bag but the placement of the top front port is not very good for venting. It's really on the end of the bag and not on the top side. I may want to add one closer to the middle of the bag and on the top side for venting.
It worked well as it was able to drain much flatter and it did not push up the floor when full, it just overflowed out instead.
No signs of leaking.
easy up grade, you can even get a right angle quick connect which would have a lower profile
http://www.flow-rite.com/product/34-...flange-and-nut
I have one of the right angle thru-hulls I could use. It has a barbed end but I kind of want to add a piece of hose to it to run it toward the back of the boat (this is the center bag application I'm talking about), then add a quick connect to the hose. That way I could locate the vent forward on the bag but still disconnect right by the driver's feet in the ski locker to remove the bag.
I'm liking this part for my plan:
http://www.flow-rite.com/product/ada...-barbed-insert
You are on your way, sounds like a good plan to me.
Well that's cool to see you own work getting passed around the internet :cool:
This works great when a standard sac doesn't have enough fittings, such as if you wanted to do a dual-pump system or if the sac's ports just aren't in the best spot for your application once the sac is in an filled.
The Flow-Rite fittings come in both .75 and 1 inch 90* elbow and straight. Its an easy mod that can be done to any ballast sac, but there are a couple of tricks I have learned with the more I've done.
Adhesive: Rubber cement. Anything that's silicone based will stay pliable and can allow the fitting to slip under load.
Hole size: Round and I tend to find it requires about .125" dia larger then the dia of the threaded portion of the fitting for the flange to fit through.
Having the sac at room temp, or even warmed a little with a hair drier or heatgun on low. This helps to allow the sac to stretch so flange will slip through. I always test fit before applying the adhesive.
I like to inflate the sac while working on it. Some air will escape once the hole is cut, but it still make working easier then when done on a flat sac.
Use a small but sharp razor knife.
When you are ready to install the fitting, lay both the fitting and the flanged nut clamping surface up. Apply the cement to both. Slip the fitting into the hole. While holding it with one hand at the threads, drop the nut over the end of the fitting and start the threads a couple turns. Now move your hand to the end of the fitting and finish threading the nut down until it seats. Turn it hand tight then finish with a pair of slip-joint pliers and turn an additional 1/8 turn.
Top the sac off with air, cap the fitting with tape, then let it set to allow the cement to cure.
Let em know if any one has a specific question.
Good stuff-- thanks. Esp. the tip about heating it up a little bit before the insertion.
Dusty Mom joke teed up for somebody here!Quote:
Originally Posted by kaneboats
Nah, that was a sucker pitch-- designed to get someone to take a big swing and miss.
MLA, was that your original work from the tige forum and spencers post?
Thanks for the write up. good stuff.
Yes it is, thank you. Thats was an 07 22Ve that we pulled the port hard tank and installed a 1K custom sac with dual fill and drain pumps. We reused the factory 700gph pumps, but added 2 extra ports in the sac and installed a pair of 1100 gph pumps for added fill and drain speed.