Rev 8 install questions?

I just ordered a pair of rev 8's and a syn 4 to power them. From looking at the pdf manual online it appears that the wiring is designed to run through the center of the clamp then directly into the tower. I'm putting them on an outback v and—because of a monster cargo bimini—will need to mount them on the horizontal tower support closest to the swim platform. However, the holes and best routing for speaker wire are already drilled in the tower beams closest to the bow. My question is can you hook the rev 8's up on the back (like the pro 80's)? Is that what the adp retro kit is for? Also, if anyone knows any good installers around knoxville, tn that would be helpful.

Thanks

On the rear of pod's clamp boss, there is a blank plate covering where the female Neutrik 4-way connector used to be on the Pro series. You need 4 sets of these male/female connector kits. Pull the grill and driver, pull the blank, install the female half into the pod and rewire the red and black wires to it. Wire the male side to your existing tower wire leads. Since the plugs are 4-way, you can easily add single color LEDs. RGB is a different story though.

The ADP-Retro Kit is available from Wet Sounds through whom ever you are getting the your Rev's from.

Ok, thanks a lot! Just to clarify, if I'm only installing 1 pair of 8's will I just need 2 sets of the connector kits—a total of 2 females and 2 males? Sorry, I'm very amateurish in this department. The process sounds a little complicated, but I'm sure any competent marine audio shop should be able to handle it no?

Thanks again...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by freddie36

I'm sure any competent marine audio shop should be able to handle it no?

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Some may tell you that is easier to type than to find.

If you get stuck tracking down a good shop, take a roadtrip to AVC Marine in Atlanta. Chris does top notch work!

Ok. I'm not sure about proper form etiquette so I figure posting here is better than starting a new thread. I'm currently installing a pair of rev 8's bridged to a syn 4. There is 8 gauge wire/30 amp fuse in place from previous amp. It is running less than 4 feet from battery to amp; does this need to be replaced with 4 gauge or would the 8 gauge be sufficient since the run is so short? I'm horrible with anything electrical and have heard mixed opinions on this.

The syn4 requires 4 gauge power wire. I got mine for my install from darvex.com, chep prices on quality stinger wire and fast shipping. Not sure on the fuse size you need but I believe it was 60 amp. You might be able to reuse the fuse holder and just get the correct size fuse.

Normally I would say that given the very short distance, sticking with the existing 8-gauge is okay especially with a higher efficiency Class H amplifier. But the 4 feet is really 8 feet when you include the ground wire completing the circuit. And by my calculations you are just over the line on an 800 watt amplifier. I would upgrade to the 4-gauge. Perhaps the 8-gauge will still serve a future purpose on an in-boat amplifier driving coaxials.

David
Earmark Marine

Thanks David for the quick reply, really wished I lived closer to Texas :)

I post the following to all potential readers as a warning: I trusted a local shop to handle the simple install of my 2 towers and amp. Underground Sound in Cleveland TN did the work and were—supposedly—very experienced in marine audio; they even have a huge Wet Sounds banner hanging on the roll-up door. I feel like I've been cheated horribly; the technician left wires hanging everywhere, no grommets on the tower, amp mounted upside down—imo so the tech could have easier access to the power and speaker wire connections, but by his doing so I can't view the status light. I don't mean this to be a rant and there are many other issues, the right tower wasn't even playing when I went to pick up the boat. Unfortunately, I was very tight on time—due to working nights—and didn't notice most of the shoddy workmanship until this morning. I'm going to "reinstall" everything myself and it's not exactly my area of expertise so anyone feel free to offer any advice. Here a some pics, maybe somebody can tell me if i'm just being crazy

http://s1155.photobucket.com/albums/p555/freddie361/

I know of two very capable marine specialists, one in S.C. and one in Kentucky. One is on this forum regularly (MLA) and one used to be and is probably still active on the Supra forum.

David
Earmark Marine

I installed all my own audio and it was fairly simple. The hardest part was fishing the wire through the tower. I also installed a connector at the base of the tower to allow me to still fold the tower down

2005 mobius lsv 2900lbs ballast liquid audio quad polk tower setup. airboom light bar.

Yeah, but you obviously have extensive knowledge of garden tractor ignitions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by freddie36

Thanks David for the quick reply, really wished I lived closer to Texas :)

I post the following to all potential readers as a warning: I trusted a local shop to handle the simple install of my 2 towers and amp. Underground Sound in Cleveland TN did the work and were—supposedly—very experienced in marine audio; they even have a huge Wet Sounds banner hanging on the roll-up door. I feel like I've been cheated horribly; the technician left wires hanging everywhere, no grommets on the tower, amp mounted upside down—imo so the tech could have easier access to the power and speaker wire connections, but by his doing so I can't view the status light. I don't mean this to be a rant and there are many other issues, the right tower wasn't even playing when I went to pick up the boat. Unfortunately, I was very tight on time—due to working nights—and didn't notice most of the shoddy workmanship until this morning. I'm going to "reinstall" everything myself and it's not exactly my area of expertise so anyone feel free to offer any advice. Here a some pics, maybe somebody can tell me if i'm just being crazy

http://s1155.photobucket.com/albums/p555/freddie361/

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Im closer then TX, but still its a 5 hr driver over the mtns. Sorry to hear about your outcome.

In regards to the status light: I would not worry about its orientation on a regular basis. As long as the amp is functioning normally, you will not need to see it as it will be green. if there is a problem, an inspection mirror will allow you to see the light and count the flashing sequence in order to determine the code.

In regards to the amps orientation: Its very common for the amps to be mounted upside down. This is do to where and how the power, RCA and speaker wires come in to the amp wall. In these cases, we remove the amp cover and rotate is 180, thus putting the logo back upright. There are 4 screws on the face of the amp then a row along each side to remove. Just keep them separated as the ones on the face are different size then the ones along the sides.

Dont hesitate to call (PM and i'll give you my number) if there is any way I can be of assistance to you.

Thanks MLA, David, and all the others for the help. Install went great, though it took me like 20 hours, lol. I'll definitely keep you in mind for the future MLA. One thing—maybe somebody can set me straight on—my right speaker seems slightly louder than the left, almost like it has more treble or something, it's not really noticeable riding at 75' and only slightly up close. Is this normal or should I try new RCA cables or something? The tech at the shop I took it to had damaged the neutrik connectors by plugging them in the wrong way and rounding the little plastic ridges, they still click into place, but could probably be tighter.

You can isolate the issue by reversing the channels and switching the relationship between speakers/tower harness and amplifier. Do the same by reversing the RCAs, first related to the amplifier and then related to the upstream source. It is very easy to isolate the true cause via process of elimination. Don't go out and buy replacement product before having found the culprit. An RCA is not usually the cause of a non-linearity problem. Usually a bad RCA cable or termination would equally impact the entire bandwidth.
If you narrow it down to one of the speakers, there is a separate terminal inside for the tweeter. A quick internal visual inspection may be in order.

David
Earmark Marine

The only other thing I could add is to make sure that the head-unit balance is centered, if the H/U allows for balance. And just double check that the "Amp-1" and "Amp-2" gains and cross-over settings are identical. More so withe gain. If set to high-pass like it should, the cross-over point would be more likely to make a noticeable difference in the mid-bass between the two, rather then volume or perceived treble.

Ok. Thanks again David and MLA. I pulled the driver, everything is hooked up correctly as far as I can tell. Speakers are in phase etc. I talked to wet sounds and I guess I'll have to send it in and have em test it. Probably after this weekend first though. Lol.