Does anyone have an issue with their hand rails coming loose? My boat has already been to the dealer once for this issue but now my right hand rail is loose again. Has anyone successfully tightened their hand rails? Did they stay tight?
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Does anyone have an issue with their hand rails coming loose? My boat has already been to the dealer once for this issue but now my right hand rail is loose again. Has anyone successfully tightened their hand rails? Did they stay tight?
I used the blue lock tite on mine when they came loose and it seems to be holding up. And we only put it back on hand right since we did not have a ratchet with a swivel that would fit up in there at the time
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Yeah, I had that problem as soon as I bought it...like literally it came off on the highway driving to ATL from The dealer in Birmingham. Spent almost 5 hours trying to fix it but then had enough and took it to the local dealer and they fixed it for me under warranty. Haven't had any problems since.
I looked last night with a mirror and a flash light...it looks like a pain in the butt to get too. I guess I will spend this nice weekend trying to get it tightened.
One of mine came loose on the end closest to the bow. It was a struggle to get tightened took out the speaker, used a lot of extensions, swivel, and tape.
I have had the same issues as you all. I've had the starboard one in the bow fixed under warranty, after getting it hand tight on the lake. Unfortunately, it has come loose again and I am pretty sure I have tightened it myself in the last year or so anyhow.
It is super tight to get access, but if you take out the speaker, you can get it tight with extensions and the like. I might even have used one of those ratcheting wrenches, but I don't recall exactly. I might have to try the blue lock tight this time...
The bow rails mount to our boats using a stud that threads into the bow rail, then when installed on the boat has a nut and washer that tightens the rail and stud to the gelcoat/fiberglass. Unfortunately these rails can loosen over time from vibration and stress. The stud closest to the windshied is usually the easiest to access by crawling under the driver's console area. In most cases you should find a nut, washer, and white square block of reinforcement material. The stud closest to the bow is a little harder to get to. In most models you can remove the bow speaker and with an extension or combination of extensions and a 1/2" socket, you can reach the other stud. In extreme cases, the fiberglass or composite area in which the speaker mounts to must be made slightly larger in order to fit your arm into the hole. When the speaker is reinstalled it will still cover the larger hole.
If your bow rails ever do loosen or come completely off, I would recommend using loctite on both ends of the stud. Also, remember this is a bow grab rail. You should not use it to tie off any items such as anchors or dock lines.
Jon Allen
Skeir's Choice Customer Service
865-983-9924 ext 148
Because I could not fit my arm in the speaker hole I just got my fiance to do it, she has a skinnier arm lol. Skinny friends come in handy fixing these things.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon
Thanks, guys!!!
Jon, part of the pain was going to be figuring out what size socket to use; that's a big help. Thank you for coming on here and providing some info for us. This forum is one of the main reason's I bought a Moomba. I'm still very happy with my Moomba. I have 161hrs on it and counting. Thanks again guys!!
Dang it. I don't know anyone who's skinny. Maybe I can hire someone. Of course my wallet's a little thin right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlangston13
I think mine came with lock washers? A nylock nut could probably work as well.
I hate nylock nuts for hard to reach places. You have to use a tool all the way. No finger loosening or tightening. Better to use a good lock washer.
My daughter’s arm was small enough to get to the nut and get it tight.
Mine came loose. Removed the speaker, side seat cushion and front cushion. Used my son to help through speaker hole, guide a long flexible extension on the end of a nut driver with deep 1/2 socket. Which I tightened from under the front cushion. Used loctite on all from then on.
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Bow rail rear bolt problem: FIXED
So....I too have fallen victim to the "loose bow rail" problem. After reading all of your post I pretty much knew I was in for a treat and thought I was going to need a good day to probably get it done due to expected frustrations. The good news is I tried to tackle this on a Monday night after I was able to slide out of work a little early, therefore I was looking for a challenge I guess.
In the midst of my challenge I have found a pretty fast way to get to the rear port and starboard front rails point if you are having to replace the entire bolt.
What I ended up using is kind out there but it worked to basically give me a easy way to have the bolt in place. I had some electrical wire (standard 8 gauge style auto wire ) heat shrink tubing that goes over your wires and you heat it up to protect your wire such as on a utility trailer. I fished the tubing though the top of the bolt hole for the rail and fed it though the storage compartment so that I could place the bolt into the end. This allowed me to pull the bolt to the top with the socket set and extensions taped to the bolt itself. After I tightened up the bolt to the rail with RED lock tight I was good to go and I was able to tighten it up in about 45 minutes.
Just thought I would share that for the masses in hopes of making someones life easier. FYI....I still had to try out for circus by doing a little bending around of my arm, but thankfully not too much.
Nice. I always dropped fishing line through the hole and tied it to the bolt. Your way probably lines up better.
Yes, but it looks like I have to tackle the front bolt now after this long weekend! Yeah for challenges towards the end of the boating season.Quote:
Originally Posted by rca
Well....for those that are wondering.....I was finally able to get my front rail bolt tight after buying some flex socks that were listed above. I ended up going though the speaker opening to go around my wire bundle that is so tactically tucked up in the way of the bolt hole. I seriously only spent about 45 minutes told with using the flex extensions on my 3/8's drive socket.
Long story short.....INVEST IN THEM AND SOME RED LOCK TIGHT IF YOU HAVE RAILS THAT YOU WANT TO TIGHTEN UP!!
With the right tools, this is a piece of cake. Without the right tools, this is practically impossible. What are the right tools? These: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-...cket+extension
These flexible socket extensions made it super easy for me. I went in through the speaker hole. I used blue locktite on the bolt going into the handrail. I had my niece, who has much smaller arms then I do, reach in through the hole and put the nut and washers on and then tighten it as much as she could with her hand. Then I went up through the bottom with the flexible extensions. My niece attached the socket onto the nut and held it in place while I tightened it up. Took 10 minutes.
Don't beat yourself up. Just by these extensions and be done with it.
Garn