Let it begin....
Attachment 16297
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Let it begin....
Attachment 16297
Sweet wheres the cabins
I think I'm undecided on this issue. I might blow up the stockers first. I kind of want so see how far they can be pushed compared to the db651 I had in my 05. I'll do them eventually for sure.
off to a good start, keep the photos coming with the progress
Everything looks great but im slightly concerned about the Bolt cutters...
Those are crimpers.
Industrial size I like, tough to crimp those in the cubby though........Quote:
Originally Posted by lewisb13
I dont think Ill be doing any crimping in the cubby. Just need to crimp the terminal on the piece between the dist block and the battery switch, and then again one crimp between the dist block and the ground on battery 1. Both crimps can be done outside the cubby. Ill try to post pictures as I go. Im gonna start here in a couple hours.
You have the same interior speakers as me?
If so then they can be pushed pretty damn hard. Im changing mine out just so everything is matching.
Everytime i start to get it together i add more stuff. My initial plan was simple..Now i have added more and more. It will be january now before i start the install. Going to be allot of stuff...Cant wait to seehow yours turns out brad...
Good luck. The end result will be worth it....
Attachment 16301
Getting ready to pull rcas and such from the zld
So I pulled all the rcas and ground power remote for zld plus the speaker wire for the sub. Now I'll go from where I have them to where the amps will be. Attachment 16302
I was curious about your routing with the molded flooring.... now I see, shorter then around the front.
I assume a sub replacement for the factory sub, is it free air?... The SA has a backing around the factory sub.
I'm gonna do a sealed sub. I'll make it look stock, but there will be a sealed enclosure behind it.
Attachment 16303
All wires pulled. Just need to do some tidying up under the floor.
I first had db651's in my boat, the Exile blow them away.Quote:
Originally Posted by lewisb13
Chase's LSV had the stock Kickers for a few weeks, they sounded terrible, but that was without an amp - I didn't try them out with power, so I can't speak to that.
Curious why you chose this route instead of through the bow? If you look there are actually clips in the hull to zip tie the wires up out of sight - I believe this is the factory routing. It might have been a little easier, and will certainly avoid any noise issues associated with running the RCAs over/around the fuel pump. Just food for thought incase you run into noise issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by lewisb13
Ever heard a honda civic with a big coffee can tailpipe rev up compared to a ferarri?
I'm jealous of that channel to route wires under the floor. So much nicer than having to drill, tuck and hide while you twist and contort your body into positions that would rival most Cirque du Soleil acts.
Well a couple reasons. I wanted all the runs to be short as possible. Granted the RCAs are 20 feet no matter what, everything else I believe to be much shorter wiring. I'd have to take a picture of where I routed the wires under the floor. I basically kept the wires in between the gas tank and the front ballast tank, a good 3-4 feet from the fuel pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by ian ashton
Yea what he said. Running rca's with power will likely cause noise issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by ian ashton
Sent from my Duhroid
so is it better to run the rca's around the bow and power wires under the floor for the zld ???
Please take measurements on the sub enclosure, I know a couple that may be making them too...
I ran all wires through the bow on Chases boat. Had a small noise issue that was fixed by running a ground from the HU to the amp ground distribution block.Quote:
Originally Posted by moombadaze
For those of you considering the 13 lsv or any of the boats where you can get this "moomba blur" graphic I just want to throw my opinion out there that you either get the boat naked or get the chrome lettering. When you try to whipe the boat down with either a towel or microfiber there are a thousand corners of the stickers to get caught on and have the edges raised. When you run a towel over these areas it feels like you hit a piece of sandpaper. I don't expect these graphics to last very long unfortunately. Much different than the large solid sticker that came on my 05.
Attachment 16348
I'm also not a fan of the graphics (or any graphics, for that matter).
Now, post some more stereo progress pictures!
I took your advice and rerouted the wires around the bow, thank you for that tip. I am having trouble running the tower wires. I have a fish tape but its really weird since I didn't get the stock tower speakers my tower isn't prewired. The hole at the foot of the tower aren't big enough to fit two sets of 12 ga speaker wire through and the hole on the other side has the wires for the tower light going through. What did you guys do here?
I ran down each side separately, using the exact fishing tape you have; it took 2 of us, using the following method;
Step 1: Drill a pilot hole from the factory hole with the grommet into the front down tube. I believe I used a 3/4 or 5/8" bit - bigger is better, and you won't see it when you are done. It makes step 4 a ton easier when the hole is bigger. Thats what she said.
Step 2: Fold the tower down about 3/4, having person #2 holding it up from the side you are fishing into.
Step 3: Leave about 4" of speaker wire extending past the leading edge of the fish tape, then use electrical tape to fasten a length of wire to the fish tape. The key here is to keep the tape tight, and not bulked up.
Step 4: Feeding from the bottom, push the wire and tape up the tower. The person holding the tower needs to look into the pilot hole and watch for the wire and/or tape. You want to push the wire just far enough so that you can grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers, tweezers, small screw driver, whatever.
Step 5: Once you have a hold of the wire you have to pull it hard enough to break the speaker wire free from the fish tape, then pull the fish tape back out the bottom.
Step 6: Decide where you want to mount the clamp, drill your holes, and fish the wire from the pilot hole over to the clamp hole.
Rinse and repeat on the other side.
We actually found it to be easier on the side with the tower light wires. All in all I'd say Chase and I took about 45 minutes to get both sides done, which is significantly less than what it took me to do my Outback.
Enlarge the hole or go with 14ga, you'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by lewisb13
Finally got the wire pulled. Definitely need to support the tower if you are doing this by yourself.
Attachment 16388
Got some more wiring done.
Attachment 16397
Looking good!
What is that bright light coming from the sky?
Oh yeah, sunshine. I almost forgot already.
Very nice! Reminds of the one I did!
Stock mounting location and this pic is about 25 feet back. I think it turned out pretty nice. I'll post some pics under the cubby when I get a minute Attachment 17192
Looks really good!
Thank you! I really appreciate all your help along the way. Your how to on chases boat really saved me a lot of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by ian ashton
Xm9s??? Can I bum a ride on the USJ?
Sent from my iPhone
Anytime! Cmon right now we are by sharkys!
looking good