So I finally have everything planned out and ready to go. Headed out to pick up the boat and get started.
Here is a diagram of the planned outcome.
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So I finally have everything planned out and ready to go. Headed out to pick up the boat and get started.
Here is a diagram of the planned outcome.
Well the second battery is in all wired up and ready to go. Super simple, I used the BorgWarner R3098 relay. Pictures posted later today, although there ain't much to see.
Today I start working on the Amp install and I am NERVOUS as H#LL!
I am planning to install the amps on the interior hull wall just in front of the air duct. I see lots of people doing this and see the fiberglass seam that everyone attaches too but I just know I will drill too far and ruin my day!
Just make sure you get into the backing strips with the screws and not the hull. You'll be fine and GL.
Here are the pictures.
I aborted on the amp install for this weekend, too close to the Daytona 500 to get started drilling (at least that is the excuse I am using).
I am one of those guys that measures 4 times and cuts once, so I am going to think about options this week and see what else I can come up with.
Note: The yellow string is my pull string for the other side, I keep one in there becasues you nevver know what you might want to add. (It will be hidden when I get finished along with all the stereo wires.
In the last picture, I marked what I am calling the seam, I am in the right place?
yes you feel the 1/2 thicker strip along the bottom there?
Also along the top pull the carpet down a bit and on the hull and you will see the firring strip they use to attach the top and bottom of the hull. there are you mounting points.
Bam
What I did was cut a few pieces of wood blocks. I then traced out the blocks on the carpet. Cut out that piece of carpet. Use epoxy to glue down the blocks. Now when everything is dry, Mount your amp rack to that. This way, you do not have to drill into the fiberglass.
Tazz
Now that sounds like an idea I can work with!
I've done the same thing but with "sea board" blocks. Thery're just plastic instead of wood. I'm trying to stick with the whole "no wood" thing...... for my boat.
..Not "no wood" in general ...Wood is good ...Don't get me wrong here!
Great idea. Where can I get seaboard? Also, is epoxy glue holding up to all the banging?
not sure but i believe Starboard/Seaboard and HDPE are the same thing. HDPE can be bought at TAP PLastics or any similar place. I've used HDPE no problem all over boats as far as racks and such go.
What about Lexan or Plexiglass?
I think it would make good mounting blocks, wondering if it will hold up to the abuse a boat takes?
BTW
It has snowed, rained or been below freezing every weekend since I started this project. So I have not done anything since the first weekend! I am so fed up with this weather and the 10 day forcast says it is going to rain next weekend too!
Arrrrghhh
Super cool ideas.
I purchase a '08 Gravity Games Edition just the other day.
I got the STD pkg with the Kicker AMP and 6 Kicker Speakers.
I am going to be adding the following to the stereo up-grade:
- Kicker 30 Band EQ
- Aerial Speaker Light PKG with (4) 6.75 POLK DB and 4 LIGHTS
- Kicker ZX750.1 - Power the POLK DB
- (2) Kicker KS6.5 Component System - ABOVE THE STD 6 KICKERS
- Kicker ZX350.4 - Power Component System
- Kicker 10" Solo-Baric
- Kicker ZX550.2 - FOR THE BASS
- ALL STINGER POWER and DISTRIBUTION
-- Battery Termianls
-- Distributions Blocks
-- PRO 200 Power Relay
-- 1 Farad Capacitor
-- RCA Cables
-- I POD HOOK-Up
It will be fun to have GREAT TUNES for surfing this summer!!
I will get you pictures as we start the install!!!!!
Don't know what you're looking to spend on the EQ and Ipod hook-up, but a WS420 will do both plus add a tower/boat fade option with a tower microphone, just my 2 cents before you start
Finally Finished!
The weather really put me in a hole, but here it is.
I used Lexan for the mounting board, taped it off and sprayed the back with red and black paint for a little different look.
I took small blocks of the lexan and glued them together, then used epoxy to attach them to the fiberglass where I cut out smap squares of carpet. I tried to epoxy the large board to the small blocks but that did not work so I drilled holes in the blocks and used 5/8 inch #10 screws to attach the board to the blocks.
Sounds great, had it running today and my neighbir 4 houses a way came out thinking it was the kid between us working on his car stereo. He was ready to light him up and had to pause when he saw me jamming in the boat.
LoL
That looks really great, I love what you did with the plexi & paint! It makes me want to jazz up my amp install. I have mine in the same spot, but I never messed with mounting the amp board to anything (I've always got the fenders in there when the boat is underway, so not much room for the amp to move, I know I know bad bad bad)
Looks great!
bama - Where did you get the idea to put the racks on top rather than the sides of the tower? How does that set up work for you? Are boards held securely in place? Looking at the top of my tower, spread between the two pieces that make up a rack would be short and makes me wonder if the heavy boards might fall. Nonetheless, I kind of like your top mount idea. Seems like an easier location to reach than the awkward position on each side of the tower. Very nice job with the sound system install! - Deerfield
I saw a guy on our lake from a distance with his boards on top. I did not like the board on the outside, they were just too hard to get to and I am too cheap to buy spinner racks, so I decided to try it out.
I moved them mid summer last year and had no problems with boards moving, I really like the ability to stand on the motor cover and access the boards. I have them set as far apart as I can in the crossmember. My boards are 142, 138, 135 and 128, and they all ride fine in the racks. Without the bimini deployed you can get dripped on, and if you forget to empty the boot before you put it up there you can get a surprise.
Thanks, the lexan was my answer to no wood, however after I started my project I found a board at West Marine that I think would have worked better.
I had a lot of trouble getting the lexan to adhere to the fiberglass and had to use a special epoxy for plexiglass and lexan. I had to build a device that would put weight on the mounting block and hold it against the fiberglass with some pressure. In the end I am really happy with the install and it sounds as good as I hoped it would.
bamaspiveys,
Sweet Idea with the board racks. I might have to try that. Would give me room for surfboard and Ski racks on the side.
I'm upgrading my system too and what board did you find that would work well. I'm interested in the best ideas to get my amps and dual battery system to fit well to save as much room as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaspiveys
thanx
A very efficent class D or H amp will be easier on your battery. I'm going with two Deka AGM 92 amp hour batteries for the stereo. You could get one very large amp hour battery like a Kinetik.Quote:
Originally Posted by viking
Viking, look at my pictures of my install. I wanted the same thing for my boat.
TAZZ,Quote:
Originally Posted by tazz3069
thanks for the reminder. I remember seeing your pics about a month ago and couldn't remember who's they were. I've been searching all morning.
What did you use for amp board? Is it plywood with carpet cover? I was thinking about using plexiglass...........
I used MDF. The carpet I purchased on ebay. 3M spray glue to hold it down. I also kept it off the carpet on the floor board. Just in case water came in the boat.
ya i took a peice of 1/2 " plywood and cut it to fit from top strap to the floor covered it and mounded two amps to the bourd . that way you can mount what ever you want and can screw any were on the bourd