To delete or not - 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L

Ok, so I know this is a little off topic for a boat forum but I'm tired of the reading the Ram / Cummins forum "internet experts" opinions out there and want to hear some real world opinions and pros and cons.

My truck, 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L with 156k miles on it. We are currently 6-7 hours from home stuck in a campground. Rolled into camp with a CEL on for an air leak between the MAF and throttle body. Long story longer, ended up with 4 CELs that just don't want to give up. Replaced MAF, replaced Exhaust Pressure Sensor, pulled and cleaned EGR valve, all new gaskets, tightened every hose and clamp I can find. Also had to replace the alternator due to a dead voltage regulator. Clear codes, idles fine, rolls slow just fine. But still popping the codes the minute it gets any throttle on the road. Which puts me into limp mode. I'm not sure if it is capping RPM or what but top speed up a hill empty is 50mph. On the flats you mash the throttle and there's nothing there. No boost.

The catch is I'm towing our 42ft 5th wheel. No way I'm towing it home like this. The kids already towed the boat home and that was another drama story in itself. Anyway after my escapades above I gave up. Called a few shops. One said they could get me in sometime around late September. So helpful. Stopped by the stealership and scanned it, came up with the same codes I did. Said "eh, probably needs EGR service. About $1300 and could probably get you in tomorrow". Told him I don't know, left and drank on it. Called back next morning and asked when can I drop it and then the story changed to oh we can get you in later NEXT week, maybe Thursday or Friday. So right out of the gate they are liars. Great.

So once I get this damn thing home, planning to run in limp mode while a buddy tows my trailer back, I have already started debating if I want to pay to get it fixed, or go the delete route.

I'm guessing plenty of you out there have already deleted at least one or more trucks. So what do you think... what would you do? I'd like to get another 5 years or 50k miles out of it if i can.

I have made a large effort to run pre emission diesels, so I have yet to delete. For me the question is why not delete?

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as someone who has modified cars over the years including removing cats/emissions, I'd go for it especially if it leads to longevity, power and better fuel economy as long as you can still "pass" any emissions restrictions in washington...

just don't be that asshole rollin coal... no one thinks that's cool but the owner-especially next to them in traffic....

6.7 cummins. 2014 so you have the grid heater also. The mounting bolt of the grid heater can break off after time and kill an engine. Yours isn't locked up so safe to say still good.
I assume you have a intake clog from the grid heater or an intake leak based on your story above.

If emissions aren't checked in your area, delete everything. EGR, Grid heater, DPF, DEF, etc. Get a good clean tune and enjoy a low maintenance engine. 156k miles is nothing but everything is going to need cleaned. Boost tube and intercooler will have some oil buildup that can be rinsed out also.

Rollin coal is a waste of power and fuel. Idiots do it because it's "funny". However, that is why people hate diesels. I had my Duramax deleted and it would only puff a small dark spot when quick revved or starting at a stop and pulling heavy (20k heavy).

They did away with emissions testing in our county several years ago but who knows if/when they might bring it back... Probably depends on upcoming elections.

Pretty sure deleted I could not trade this one in to a dealer but selling private is fine - for now...? No shops left around here that will do deletes so I'm pretty sure I'll have to DIY if I do it. The one I was hoping to go to got raided by the EPA a few years back and almost went out of business. I believe they actually relocated to another county to stay under the radar so maybe they are back to doing 'performance' in addition to repair work.

Yeah I have no plans to be 'that guy' rollin coal with an 8" tailpipe.... I actually kind of like the clean tail pipe and no diesel smell. I have never really felt short on power and have no interest in blowing my trans or anything else in the powertrain so no big tunes needed.

Really just weighing the pros and cons as I need to get this thing back on the road.

Big shout out to my best buddy Dan and his Duramax. Cancelled his weekend plans, got off work Friday at 5, drove 6.5 hours to us. Had a beer, hit the rack. We were on the road at 6am, him dragging my trailer and following me the whole way - made it just fine aside from some really slow hills... He did 675 miles in 19 hours.

Berg,
Turning wrenches yourself is a good bet but you will need a tune or old school tuner to get your engine light off.
There are some "race" tuners you can find used that will help. Not trying to get huge power but just help with reliability. Your transmission is the weak link so just adding 40hp tow tune and not having limp mode anymore sounds like your best bet. No black smoke, no crazy smell, and not really louder than stock, just keep your muffler or add a performance one.

In Ohio dealers are still taking deleted truck on trade. The city dealers aren't but the rural dealerships are paying good money for them. Otherwise, FB marketplace will sell it quickly if you need to later in life. My deleted duramax sold in 24hrs for top dollar.

Delete that sumbich.
My 2020 has been deleted since 600mi. 94k trouble free miles on the mega cab https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...befb51bb5f.jpg


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Holdmybeer

6.7 cummins. 2014 so you have the grid heater also. The mounting bolt of the grid heater can break off after time and kill an engine. Yours isn't locked up so safe to say still good.
I assume you have a intake clog from the grid heater or an intake leak based on your story above.

If emissions aren't checked in your area, delete everything. EGR, Grid heater, DPF, DEF, etc. Get a good clean tune and enjoy a low maintenance engine. (20k heavy).

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That heater grid nut failure is a catastrophic engine failure. I think there are aftermarket intakes that fix this risk.


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Originally Posted by j.mo

Delete that sumbich.
My 2020 has been deleted since 600mi. 94k trouble free miles on the mega cab

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I'm leaning that way. I've heard the dealer won't touch them for anything if they're deleted, but the only thing I've gone there for is recalls. In fact I still have the one open for the computer lying about emissions (from that big lawsuit a while back). Toying with the idea of bringing it in, clear the codes in the parking lot, and let them flash it. See if that makes any diff at all with it's current state. If it would even get that far once they have it hooked up...

I always said I wouldn't delete our F250 and 350 until the systems caused me issues. The F250 did it about a year ago, was $1000 to delete it or $1500-$3k to fix it, so its deleted. Runs very well now and picked up 2mgs as well in city driving. Were in OK so lot of deleted trucks here and most dealers don't seem to care one bit. I've seen newer models on their used lots that are deleted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by larry_arizona

That heater grid nut failure is a catastrophic engine failure. I think there are aftermarket intakes that fix this risk.


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Banks has the best solution but it's expensive. Replaces the whole intake elbow.

Berg once you do this the only issues would be VGT accuator and transmission. Since you aren't making crazy power neither should be a concern, but clean your VGT when it's apart.

I've looked at the Banks stuff quite a bit - but only have the Pedal Monster for now.

Turbo was replaced about 3 years ago so hopefully VGT isn't too bad. Getting in to the shop that did the turbo later this afternoon and get their take on it. They used to do 'performance' work, not just repairs, so if that's still the case we will have that conversation as well.

As a follow up to this I did not delete. Into it about $2600 - roughly the same as a lot of the delete kits I looked at.... Guy at the shop said if I go that route I'd probably have a hard time selling it around here and if I wasn't working on it myself - possibly even finding anyone to work on it except a shadetree mechanic. And this is coming from the shop owner that got raided by the EPA and almost shut down. He said 4 years later and they are still trying to put him in prison.

At any rate, it took a bunch of cleaning, a new-to-me EGR valve, bunch of new OEM sensors. One of the very few times that the parts were more than the labor. Lesson learned.

Truck is solid again - pulled a five mile 7%+ grade hill this weekend towing my 42ft trailer and held 55 or more all the way up without getting too hot.

Glad you were able to get it going again, sure is a lot of money for a system that always seems to have issues no matter the brand.


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