I installed this kit https://www.wakemakers.com/collectio...5963e430&_ss=c
Other than change the timers what else do I need to do? Does anyone have a round about setting on the timmers?
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I installed this kit https://www.wakemakers.com/collectio...5963e430&_ss=c
Other than change the timers what else do I need to do? Does anyone have a round about setting on the timmers?
You went from 900lb bags to 1,270lb bags.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby1110
Roughly 48 more gallons of water. G3 pump setup is 11gpm so 4 extra minutes or 13min total. G6 ballast is 23 gpm so 2 extra minutes 6 or 7 minutes total.
Getting the air out is the hardest part. Also make sure your plugs are tight. It seems like every year I purge water into my hull from forgetting this step.
I have the g6 pumps. Do I need to do anything with the sensors?
On the Makai , you've gotta move em up or you'll be flipping switches off and on to get them full. Not "required," but nice to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby1110
I went a whole summer just opening the plugs to vent the air. This year I installed a line from that vent port and t'd it into overflow. Worth the ~$100 in parts and a few hours time to do.
Edit: have you reinforced the panels? Again, Makai owner, had to get the WM kit + some angle iron from the big orange store so they didn't buckle anymore. Learned the hard way after popping a coolant (Port?) off of my exhaust manifold.
100 percent reinforce your engine panels! Not hard. Lowes or Home Depot, or wherever. Get some short pieces of c-chanel or angle and some stainless bolts. And some black spray paint, or heck, color match your boat. Here are mine before I painted them black. All those marks/scratches on my plastic panels are from where they popped out and rubbed on the engine before! LOL.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c30aae63dc.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by dyrmz134
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If you want to cover all your bases, after you've reinforced the engine dividers if you decide to do that, pull everything out of the boat (except the dry bags) and recalibrate your inclonometer.
I don't know it that wakemakers package had the fittings to T-splice back in to your existing vent lines but if it did not, I would consider that.
When you're setting your timers, I would fill up to 100%, drain to 0% and then start your timer on the 2nd fill to 100%. I've found if you do it off the first fill of the season or the first fill after a mod change, you can get inaccurate results. This works especially well if you have check valves on the vent lines to get them down to raisins.
I have a 2020 Mojo with the exact fit bags. The panel reinforcements are a must. I also added lead in the bow so that I could get an 8.5-9.5 degree pitch with the rear bags 100% full. I run extra lead, both in the bow, and under the rear bags so not sure if the bow lead would be necessary with just the bag upgrade. I fill my bags while slowly idling to our surf spot at 1400 rpm and my fill time is 9-1/2 minutes for the exactfits. If you fill at the 750 rpm idle the pumps run a bit slower and will increase that time. I don’t have Autowake so I can’t comment on the sensors with any certainty but I am thinking you will need to slide them up a bit to completely fill. If you want them to fill completely every time, you will have to crack the air vents as the stock vents are junk. To alleviate this, talk to the guys at Wakemakers about the Moomba vent upgrade and they will send you everything to complete the 2 hr job. The only I wish I had for the vent upgrade to make it perfect is a 90 degree fitting just below where the kit tees into the stock
tubing. When the bags are full there is stress there and the 90s would fix the issue. Depending on the altitude where you surf, you might want to upgrade your prop as well. My boat shipped for SC with a 15 dia. X 16.5 pitch and I had to upgrade it. I went with 15.5 dia X 13 pitch. It works great but I gave up a lot of top end. I think a 13.9” pitch would be the sweet spot. For wakeboarding, I run the all the bags at 50% full ( I have a little over 800# total of lead too) and the wake is very close to pro level and the boat isn’t working too hard. I can run the bags full and get the boat to wakeboarding speeds but is definitely working hard to get there.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b449e13a2b.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b5d3f59167.jpg
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I do have the panel supports and installed them already. How far up do I need to move the sensors? I would guess there is a certain spot I need to set them at.
I would move them up as far as possible. For the Makai it was a little bit of a deal to get them where I wanted them. Just a few inches is a little tricky due to the angles etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby1110
You can't really move them up too far. ( I guess if they were ABOVE?) your fiberglass your bag COULD go too high?
i will move them up as far as possible then.
Where are the sensors located? Im assuming my craz has them as well so I guess I may need to move mine up more too?
Behind the back or rear , stern, panel of each bag. On the Makai anyway.
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You should be able to see the OEM vent tubes tucked up under the gunwhales in each rear locker. Follow those back to your bags and you’ll find the sensors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxmark4
I have the OJ 950 prop on the boat now and as a spare prop I have the OJ 945
This is where they are on my 21 Makai. Photo of the stock bag location setup. Sensor is the piece near the top on the black pipe in the middle.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5cc0764d35.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Tommy2slow
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do you think t OJ950 that is on the boat is the correct prop with the added weight?
That is a 15x13 pitch? It should have plenty of low end torque for you at low to medium elevation.
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0.130" cup as well! depending on your pitch, speed and altitiude you could pull 6k npQuote:
Originally Posted by HFarr