How to winterize just the ballast system on 2011 Moomba LSV

Sorry if this is answered on another thread. I couldnt find it. There is a good thread about winterizing the indmar assault engine and the video was awesome. I was able to do everything except the ballast system as it wasnt the same boat (Supra?) as my LSV.

Im a rookie boater. So please help as if im an idiot with the stuff. I will try to post pics which may help someone to guide me. In the video below , at the 4:25 min mark, it shows green ballast pipes, restrainer, etc. Mine looks nothing like that. But everything else (hoses, engine bolts. Etc) were identical to mine.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TKCIjK...ature=youtu.be

So when looking at the video at the 4:25 min mark vs the pictures i posted, obviously looks totally different than my moomba ballast set up. I'm almost at the finish line doing this myself! Cant claim victory yet though.

Why not disconnect the bags, remove the water from them, and put the hoses in the bilge - low point so the water drains out?

You can also blow air through them.


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Originally Posted by Raylsv

So when looking at the video at the 4:25 min mark vs the pictures i posted, obviously looks totally different than my moomba ballast set up. I'm almost at the finish line doing this myself! Cant claim victory yet though.

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The video has the manifold sprinkler system. Older system that had one valve in the bottom of the boat that directed water to 3 bags. Inefficient by today’s technology. Each bag had a draining pump different from the 1 filling pump.

Newer boats and many older boats switched to reversible pumps. 3 valves in the bottom of the boat and each is direct to it’s own pump and bag. Much more efficient. Water goes in and out the same path.


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If you disconnect the fitting where the water goes into the bags, have the valves in the bilge open, blow air into the line. Any water should be forced out.

Again, if you pumps are mounted higher than the bags, if you disconnect the lines and put the lines lower in the bilge, water would drain out.

Most of the water in the lines is self draining from the pump to the bilge valve once you pull your boat out of the water and on the trailer.

But if you have water still left in the bags, you might have water in the lines from the bag to the pump.

I’ve heard of people pouring antifreeze in the lines, but that is not necessary if you get the water out of the bags and lines.

If your boat had hard-tanks, which it does not, that is different.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MJHSupra

Why not disconnect the bags, remove the water from them, and put the hoses in the bilge - low point so the water drains out?

You can also blow air through them.


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Thanks. I was wondering if it would be that simple. I took all the bags out. I have a compressor. So hook up the compressor on the opening of the hose where it connects to the bags?

Is there a restrainer i need to unscrew like in the video above?

Also, i read online that you can turn the ballast pumps on reverse to drain and with the bags off, it should empty all water out of the ballast system?

I just want to make sure i dont do 99% of the winterizing and then miss out on that one extra step for the ballasts and have it crack. There's also a mention in the video of a ballast knob that needs to be turned? I cant find that on my LSV.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MJHSupra

Why not disconnect the bags, remove the water from them, and put the hoses in the bilge - low point so the water drains out?

You can also blow air through them.


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this.
we had same irritrol setup on our 2006 supra. disconnect bags and remove. that is all we ever did in idaho. if you feel the need, you can blow air through it but we never did. the valves will drain back down out the intake that is always open and forward into the bilge from the valves as they are typically mounted on top of the vdrive so above the drain points. hardest part was finding an incline to get all the water out of the center ski locker from that bag. always had a little left.
and that miners moss under the center bag was usually a moldy mess. we always planned a couple hours to clean out the center bag/miners moss/locker floor with a high pressure hose and some simple green. we spent most of our time ensuring engine was good. served us well for 5 years this way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raylsv

Thanks. I was wondering if it would be that simple. I took all the bags out. I have a compressor. So hook up the compressor on the opening of the hose where it connects to the bags?

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Yes, a compressor will work if you do not let the air escape from the hose you are inserting it into. Air would force any water out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raylsv

Is there a restrainer i need to unscrew like in the video above?

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On the new boats there is a strainer between the valve on the hose that goes to the water pump. On some older boats, peeps have installed them for flush-out, starting w/o being in the lake, or anti-freeze.

On the old manifold system there was a strainer to keep debris out of those sprinkler values. If you do not have the manifold system, they probably removed the strainer.

The only way of knowing is to follow the hoses from the 3-4 valves in bilge. They will probably lead you to a ballast bag or the water pump assembly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raylsv

Also, i read online that you can turn the ballast pumps on reverse to drain and with the bags off, it should empty all water out of the ballast system?
.

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Yes, it should, but if your trailer was tilted there could be remaining water in the bags or if the pumps lost prime when draining b/c it started to suck some air - you could still have water in there. I little more complex if you have ballast bag vents or check-valves and/or if your bags look like "raisins" when they are done draining.

I had a 2007 Supra for years with the 325 motor. Each winter I would remove all three bags to get all the water out. Sometimes leaving them sit in year on a sunny day to dry out before I stored them back in the boat for the winter to prevent mold. I would also leave them unhooked and then reattach them in the spring.

Same thing if you have any miner's moss sitting under the middle bag. I would remove that, clean it, let it dry, before putting the boat away.

I would also get a garden hose in the bilge to clean up any mess with some Dawn soap, tilt the trailer back when done washing to drain any water, get the remaining water out with towels or sponges. Then let it dry out before storing. Clean bilge at the start of the next season.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raylsv

I just want to make sure i dont do 99% of the winterizing and then miss out on that one extra step for the ballasts and have it crack. There's also a mention in the video of a ballast knob that needs to be turned? I cant find that on my LSV.

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Ballast knob - no idea what that means. Are they referring to the ball-valves in the bilge to close them when done?

If so, I never did that. I assume that would prevent something from crawling into the opening? But I stored my boat inside a garage.

If the boat was sitting outside with a cover on, I could cover or close all openings, including the exhaust.

I want to give a huge thanks to everyone who responded and anyone who responds/adds to this thread after the fact. What great value this forum is adding. Love it.

As much as I'd like to support our local dealer, it's so difficult from a time and logistical stand point. I'm quickly learning that part of being a boat owner is you really have to learn how to do a lot of stuff yourself. And learn to enjoy it. I actually enjoyed winterizing the boat even though i scraped my hand really bad removing one of the stubborn hoses.

And at least i know i did it with care as it's my investment and no one is going to care about this and the reconnections come summer as much as i will.

Thanks again. cheers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raylsv

I just want to make sure i dont do 99% of the winterizing and then miss out on that one extra step for the ballasts and have it crack.

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Overall on the 325 motors (and the 340 cat motors), your main items to make sure you have water drained:
1) Muffler - screw on the bottom drains that water
2) Heater and/or Shower - most boats did not have them.
3) Two Water Pump Hoses and J-Hose - pulling the hoses and putting them facing the bilge to get the water out
4) Crossover hose for water in the the exhaust manifolds
5) V-Drive hoses or brass plugs
6) Block Plugs (brass) on the bottom of engine - one on each side
7) Ballast bag/lines to pumps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MJHSupra

Overall on the 325 motors (and the 340 cat motors), your main items to make sure you have water drained:
1) Muffler - screw on the bottom drains that water
2) Heater and/or Shower - most boats did not have them.
3) Two Water Pump Hoses and J-Hose - pulling the hoses and putting them facing the bilge to get the water out
4) Crossover hose for water in the the exhaust manifolds
5) V-Drive hoses or brass plugs
6) Block Plugs (brass) on the bottom of engine - one on each side
7) Ballast bag/lines to pumps.

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Thanks. I feel pretty good going into winter. Probably the first time in my life I've ever completed a project ahead of time. Lol.

By the way, the garage is heated but my neighbor freaked me out by saying "what if your heated garage fails you" all it takes is one bad freezing day.

I lived in green bay for 4 years back in 2013. East facing 3 car insulated ceiling and not heated. 45 was the lowest temp I ever saw and that was 2 months of daily highs barely over zero.

Metal uninsulated pole barn is another story tho.

Happened in TX a few years ago. Some do not winterize and they had that sweeping cold front/ice storm that knocked out power for days. Those were temps probably in the 20s, so if you were parked outside, that would get you w/o winterization. A garage attached to the house would help it from not freezing.