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Yeah I know it's August still but I live in the north!! And it's coming.
What are people getting qouted for this? My dealer just stated $1200.
Seriously, isn't it just 5 plugs, oil, and empty ballast bags? I'd even consider starting it and dumping some antifreeze in the strainer before pulling plugs.
Am I missing anything?
Pull blue plugs and crossover hose.
Drain your ballast until water no longer cones out.
Change your oil or wait until spring,
Fuel stabilizer
Battery tender
Change water pump impeller.
It’s not that hard.
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Agree with Larry, pretty easy to do. The only thing i would do differently is wait until the spring to change the impeller. No sense in putting a new one in just to sit dry for 6-8 months. I always do my fluids at the end of the season and impeller at the beginning of the season.
Good point, one of the Raptor drain points technically is the water pump impeller housing so I just do it while it’s open and use the grease that comes with the impeller to prevent dry start up in spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by 996scott
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That sounds really high. Last year I did my own oil change. Not hard, and had dealer do the rest, since I was taking the boat in for a couple other things anyway. Charge was around $300. With oil change $500. Overall, I agree with the rest of the posts. not hard to do yourself.
WOW!!! hope you are flexible enough to grab your ankles as you swipe your card.. that is just plain INSANE.Quote:
Originally Posted by WildH
it's literally $100 in materials and maybe 3 hours for an experienced shop tech.
larry is pretty much right on other than we only did impeller every 2 or 3 years and never an issue but to each their own.
Every year on impeller may be overkill, but at least on a Supra, when the engine access panel is off in the surf locker, the impeller literally calls out to me….. “I am right fn here, change me” lol.
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WOW!! Thats crazy pricing. The hardest thing to get to is the fuel filter and once you do it once its no big deal. Add a $70-100 vac pump to your list of items to order the first time and its pretty simple to change all 3 oils and winterize. The bracket on top of the alternator has places to store your blue water plugs and they are labeled and numbered so you can remember easily where they go.
I know. Thought I was maybe missing something. I already have an oil extraction pump for other equipment. I'll just grab the manual and get all the proper fluids and do it myself. I might actually call back and ask another person. I wonder if the person I talked to thought I wanted them to store it.Quote:
Originally Posted by RUGER761
You will be surprised to see how fast the antifreeze gets sucked up before it comes out the exhaust. I have a 5 gallon bucket with a hose on the bottom of it that connects to the strainer. Once the lake water is drained out, I recall it was 3-4 gallons of antifreeze before it started flowing out of the exhaust.Quote:
Originally Posted by WildH
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Anti-freeze is not necessary unless you live very far north and/ or store outside.
In Ohio I see negative Temps and it will stay under freezing for weeks and no issues.
By draining everything and leaving it open to dry, it creates expansion room for any water that could be left. Pull the plugs and impeller and let it go. I usually pull my rear bags but that is also so I can work on the mechanicals. I leave them out until spring also.
Changing fluids with an extractor is the only way. The air fitting trick for the engine oil line is the best. Takes me all of 2 hours and about $100 in materials.
Might be worth checking. But it really is pretty easy to do assuming you can physically get down into the rear lockers. Now buying synthetic oil adds up with filters but still not too bad. Indmar has a manual on their site that is pretty decent.Quote:
Originally Posted by WildH
Got a picture of the bucket strainer set up and air fitting? I live in ND/MN so it can get crazy cold here. Can't see harm in running AF through it prior to pulling plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
I don't use the bucket method but have seen one. It's a 5 gallon bucket with a garden hose valve mounted in the side and you use a garden hose to connect that to the strainer. Place the bucket so it can gravity feed into the strainer and start the boat. Don't let it run dry and place another bucket under the exhaust to catch the anti-freeze and it can be re-used/recycled.Quote:
Originally Posted by WildH
I would drain the system first so you are not diluting the anti-freeze too much.
Thought I had one on my phone, just need to find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by WildH
5g bucket.
Brass hose valve/bibb in the side - not the circle on/off style.
4-5’ RV non-kink hose with fitting on each end.
Need to shut off the raw water valve and place the bucket on a towel on the seat - have it raised a bit
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It’s been talked about in here.
I’m pretty sure the Raptor Indmar manual now says to drain. In the GM motor manual from the past I swear the recommend antifreeze after draining water.
Anyways, I’ve been draining and using antifreeze for years. Just the way I do it.
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