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Is getting the complete wetsound package worth it on the build? Or leave it out and add it after. Like have an audio company install it after. I am not trying to skimp on money but if I can be more efficient, that would help. I really want it to punch. Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this?
I realize some folks are going to get upset by this, but 99.9% of people wouldn’t be able to tell the difference in sound between a Wetsounds system and a more budget friendly system if they were blindfolded..
We are not big loud stereo kind of folks, but I did recently add a “budget” 5 ch amp and 10” sub box to our Max and it sounds excellent (better than I need)..
I would just order it with the boat, especially if you get a summertime build. It’s a hassle to install afterwards and then warranty etc.
Id agree with the above and just order it from SC and let them install it, one and done. For me it was one less thing to worry about and a lot less people crawling around in your boat and potentially causing damage installing the system after the fact. Doesn't take too much for someone to drop plyers or a knife on vinyl to slice it.
That upgraded WS system really rocks harder than the majority of people will ever need. It's worth it in my opinion for simplicity. Now if your passion is stereo systems and you enjoy installing them, then by all means you can do it yourself and I am sure save money while probably having an even better system. Those days have left me long ago however.
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I also agree that 99.9 percent, I will even say 99.9999 percent of people couldn't tell what brand speaker sound is coming from if you compared a tuned top of the line systems from each of the big name manufacturers.
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Agreed here..Quote:
Originally Posted by RUGER761
For me I enjoy picking out and installing stereo equipment and so it wasn’t an issue. If I didn’t enjoy it, it would be nice to have it all installed from the factory.
Get it factory. Had a warranty issue one time and was super easy to get fixed.
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I like it as well, installed it all myself on the last 2 used boats, along with battery and charger upgrades. The last 2 new boats showed up too close to summer so we wanted them ready to rock soon as we could get them here and on the water. So time might be a factor he might consider as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by brad460
I'm the opposite here.
I didn't order stereos in my 2 new builds. wetsounds makes some good tower speakers in the Icon brands but rev's are crap imo(zips up flamesuit). have heard kicker and they are much more musical than the revs. again all my .02 but the real spend comes in amps. ws are WAY overpriced for what they are and there are hundreds of better options for less coin out there. we bought the basic "deck and 4" option on both new builds and added amps/subs/towers/more inboats after the fact. my 2020 tige I spent just over half on that system compared to tige pricing and got a much more robust system than it would have had from the factory.
that said the guys are correct in that if it's a summer build and you want to use out of the box, are concerned about warranty work on the AUDIO part or are not stereo install inclined, then pay for it. I enjoy installing systems and find it very therapeutic and a level of satisfaction once done but that's not most.
^^this..
I will probably get roasted for this, but I am kind of a cheap azz sometimes and not loud stereo kind of people.
Our Max came with the four stock Wetsounds speakers and this spring I added a 5 channel Skar amp and 10” Skar sub box. My expectations were somewhat low, but holy crap let me tell you- it sounds excellent! Trust me, I’ve heard plenty of stereo systems in my life. I am blown away at how good the system now sounds. Note: I have about ~$300 into the whole build.
I’d put this stereo up against just about any other of same sub size/#of speakers..
I did the math on adding them myself and from the factory you basically just pay for the speakers with no labor.
So if you are going to do wet sounds absolutely do it from the factory.
Also I blew my REV 10 tower speaker, covered under warranty and saved me the $1400 or what ever they are
So I'm one of .0001 that is picky. Maybe too picky and some might call me a snob, but I like a certain sound. Wet sounds speakers push mids and have metal tweeters. To me it sounds unnatural and harsh. But....some people love that and it's fine. I personally prefer a soft dome or textile material like JL uses.
This said, I went with the premium WS package for the same others stated and because I didn't want to run speaker wire through towers etc and that labor cost is high on aftermarket installs. Figured I could always swap drivers which is super easy.
With the motor running and it being open air, it's a tough environment for hifi audio! ��
Just an FYI, IF and I mean IF someone happened to blow ALL three audio components of a wet sounds pod, a rev-10 can be rebuilt for less then $400.Quote:
Also I blew my REV 10 tower speaker, covered under warranty and saved me the $1400 or what ever they are
Im yur Huckleberry!Quote:
I’d put this stereo up against just about any other of same sub size/#of speakers..
So you are using the same speaker, so matching the amp wattage is easy. Most woofers of the same size and alignment (enclosure type) driven with the same wattage, will have about the same output.
So, in a marathon, that class-A/B skar amp will peter out of battery voltage in half the time a class-D amp will. On a hot summer day, that skar amp stands a much greater chance of going into thermal protect mode.
If we match the wattage to the speakers, your skar v's my amp choice, the speaker will sound and perform the same. Same with the woofer. They may sound a little different, but their dB will be about the same.
Will my amp cost more? Sure! Its modern tech v's early 2000's. But it consumes less battery, takes up less space and is not an open chassis thats fan cooled and drawing humid air across it all the time.
In closing, I do not see that skar offers a marine woofer and a marine enclosure. So that carpet covered MDF box will be showing the effects of absorbing the humid air by season 2. Any woofer with a paper-based cone, will do the same.
I’m with MLA.
The stereo, imo is no place to skimp on the boat. As important as the engine, I’d say.
Factory installed is easy, but I find that you have more options to put together something better, for around the same money doing it in your own if you really want to do it.
It does add up quick, we’re around $17k into ours. Which doesn’t seem to really go all that far these days when it gets down to all of the components including wiring and batteries.
I say go for it after the fact, and if they have a tower prep option for it to be pre wired but bare, take that. That’s your biggest hassle.
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I'd be interested in details on your set up.Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mo
hearing over and over you must use marine gear..
I totally agree when it comes to the box and speakers(not that much to invest in poly cones over paper anymore-do your homework first). spend money or time and ensure you build a good box that can withstand the elements OR be prepared to replace it every couple of years from wood moisture expansion.
for the life of me tho I can't understand the electronics side. I have used RF power series in the supra, 2 boats using arc audio(which iirc uses the same topography as WS just not coated) and another boat using JL non-marine from prior owner. never had an issue with any of them and if you research the go-fast industry, they have been using car audio gear for years and years. maybe I was lucky but I view it more as manufacturers figuring out a way to increase margins to a market with deeper pockets than some car audio guys. I get that you dump a wet towel on an arc or fosgate it might not last but all my installs had amps mounted off the floor and away from wet towels/lifejackets and most wakeboat installs are similar in nature.
I would bet a lunch that the amps installed in trunks of daily driver cars in the south see a LOT more moisture and humidity than any of the jl/arc amps in my last 2 boats based on being here in vegas with an average humidity level of +/-10% even on the water.
I get that manufacturers are going to use marine gear to ensure they are "idiot proof" and keep warranty claims down but for those that understand what we are buying and how to use them properly, good car audio gear can last just as long if installed properly at a reduced cost and offer more options than marine.
I'm a cheaparse and I can say I paid $725/pair for my icon8's in the last tige brand new in december 2020. dropshipped straight from wetsounds. took some shopping but that's 30% off new. boat dealers were offering $2500 installed for amp and 4 icons. I was in it $1700 for 4 icon's and a brand new arc audio ks300.2. there are ways to get deals if you want to put the time into it. factor in the sub and I was half what it would have been for a full-on system from the manuf.Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh828
and ya, I know warranty would be tough but "knock on wood", I have not ever had a warranty issue in car audio and I've done systems in over 15 vehicles and 4 boats in the last 25 years.
Not all but most "marine" grade amplifiers are just coated circuit boards so water cannot easily cause shorts. The class A/B vs. class D is a real thing though. Class D amplifiers do cost more but the RIO is greater since it doesn't drain batteries as easy and doesn't go into thermal protection and cut out.
You can get both amps with internal cooling fans and that would nit be recommended on the water. As for humid air, yeah that is going to happen on the water, but open air subs sound horrible and plastic boxes, even poly filled, echo to much. You are stuck using plywood and/or MDF which both will rot some day.
This got me wondering…..I added up the current SA/SL/SE JL systems…..Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mo
4 M6 8.8towers
2 800/8 amps
1 1000/1 amp
2 M7 12 subs
2 M6 8.8 in boat
2 M6 7.7 in boat
2 M6 6.5 in boat
MSRP’s for the above is just over $12k.
Seems like a decent deal for a factory system that sounds this good.
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Larry...valid math and point but what does the standard audio option come with that you included in your list? The upgraded price only includes some of that hardware, correct?
The remaining hardware would be standard and built into the price of the boat without an audio upgrade.
Just curious
The standard system comes with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
Subs, in boats, 1 800/8 amp and the 1000/1 amp.
All in boats and subs have fiberglass enclosures.
You can then option 2 or 4 8.8 towers. I think
adding
2 8.8 towers and a 400/4 amp is $2780
4 8.8 towers and a 800/8 amp is $5050
For the record, Supra has a proprietary fxone tower speaker mount that you can’t buy aftermarket.
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Just to throw this out there on the Moomba side like Larry did on the Supra and only going on the additions off my build sheet then using the pricing on Wetsounds website, I'm sure there are cheaper places but it was easy to get their pricing, and of course there are cheaper brands that sound great as well.
2 bow speakers, sub and amp $1710 SC price, Wetsounds website 6.5" speakers $250, sub $350, we'll throw $150 on for the box, amp $1400 = $2150
Rev 10s with amp $2310 SC price, Wetsounds pricing $1849, amp $1000=$2849
Seems like SC pricing installed at least for the Wetsounds equipment with all the wiring isn't too bad of a deal saving $979 vs retail considering how many hours it would take to wire up after the fact, plus install kits for the amps and extra speaker wire if they don't prewire it.
Got it...just curious what Supra comes with already.
Ruger has the same math also.
SC is saving you a few $ in the equipment and then labor and wiring is "free" compared to aftermarket.
The warranty is also value added that cannot be quantified unless you need to use it, then it is priceless.
I think you mean, you cant buy the FxOne adapters for the consumer level JL pods from JL? This does not include FxOne adapters for other speaker brands.Quote:
For the record, Supra has a proprietary fxone tower speaker mount that you can’t buy aftermarket.
Correct. The JL pods from Supra are FX1 specific. I think you can buy them from Supra dealer.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
I added a pair of JL’s to my 18SA and used the pipe clamps, the sat same height but rearward a few inches. Looked fine.
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