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I have a 22 Mojo that I got with no upgraded audio(4 wetsounds recon 6 running off the Fusion deck)
Instant regret on not upgrading when I bought it.
I'm looking to add 2 more Recon 6 in the bow, and maybe a Recon 10 sub as well. I basically know nothing about audio, so trying to figure out what WS amp would be best to power this? Could I run the 6 speakers + sub off one amp? Would you leave maybe the pair of bow speakers running off the deck?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
You can get a 6+1 amp but not sure about marine grade. 8 channel amps exist and you can bridge 2 channels together to a 4-ohm sub and be done.
If you want the best sound, I wouldn't run any speakers from the deck. However, everyone has a budget and you can amp a 4 channel amp run 2 bow speakers and a sub from this single amp, keep your current speakers on the deck.
So many options, but use a real box for your subwoofer. It will sound much better.
The Wet Sounds Syn-DX6 will deliver up to 100W rms to each of your 6 in-boats and up to 600W rms to a 4 ohm woofer.
Just note, the Recon woofers are designed for infinite-baffle/free-air and use the large air space behind it, as its enclosure. I would not suggest loading it into a small enclosure. For this application, you would want to go with the Revo HP line.
I was planning to put the sub at the drivers feet which is I think where it would go if factory installed. So the back of the sub is in the storage area under the helm. Is that a large enough area for a free air sub?
That is the proper place to be free air.
Some of the new upgraded audio systems use ported boxes under the port side locker. They sound better even being under the dash and "hidden". The sub is closer to the amp so easier to run wires. You also don't have to cut on a new boat either.
I tried running a sub in the port side dog house. After a season I replaced it with a sub under the helm. I found the doghouse was too sealed and the bass was trapped unless I lifted the seat back to open the area up. Having the seat back up all the time got annoying really fast.
Whatever MLA recommends, it will be great advice. He is super knowledgeable with audio and won’t steer you wrong. FWIW, I went with a JL Audio 13” tucked out of site under the dash and I very happy with it. Couldn’t imagine any more bottom end. It vibrates the entire boat when I unleash it! Can’t be good for all the electrical connections and fasteners with all the vibration lol.
From what ive seen, the current woofer setup, is a ported enclosure with the Revo-10HP, under the helm. There is a vent. This may not be the setup on all Moomba models, just what ive seen on some.
If placing a woofer in the port locker, I highly suggest installing a vent, just for the scenario Tommy experienced.
Yes, that locker is large enough to support an IB woofer. However, If the cavity is vented, then you can get some phase cancelation with the output off the rear of the woofer coming through the vent and mixing with the output off the front. This is exactly why the Kicker KM10 woofer Moomba got all the undeserved criticism. The wall was not a complete wall and was open at the top. Also didnt help that is was not an IB woofer, but one intended for a small enclosure.
Bottom line, design and application will get you more mileage then any brand label will.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy2slow
we had a 13w7 in a prior tige in the locker with a vent. it vibrated the $hit out of the whole boat when cranked. the 13w7 is a no joke woofer....Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
we installed a vent in our last boat with a 12w6 in the locker as mla suggested but with those large jl woofers, you'll still have TONS of vibration. I appreciated the feedback and would install a vent every time. first 2 boats had 12w6's under the dash and they had equal the bass output but imo less rattle. was a WHOLE LOT more work to install and make it look clean tho with the box.
I removed my 10" free air sub and replaced it with a 12" sub in a sealed box behind the false wall. The false wall was cut and cleaned up to line up perfect and the grill was installed.
It is much louder than the free air setup and doesn't rattle but vibrates everything.
Coming from a 2020 free air to a 2021 with the new box, the 2021 sounds much better and hits a lot harder. Not sure what version of sub is in the current one.
just build in a "wake sub" like the $350k paragons have hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by MLA
This difference would also be noticed if you went from a sealed enclosure to a ported. The port is equivalent to extra cone area. Also, I believe the previous Revo-10FA was bridged on an HTX-6 for up to 300W rms where as the new HP is bridged on a Syn-DX6 for 600W rms potential.Quote:
Originally Posted by RUGER761
Holdmybeer's boat is the example I noted earlier. Wrong woofer poorly installed. Could have kept the same woofer and built a proper sealed enclosure and have a 10X sounding setup.
I think the amps stayed the same on ours but we only added the sub and bow speakers for the option vs the premium package which I think included the SYN series amps and something else. I can verify what's in it tonight to help him out and report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
I personally liked the free air sub better as I kept my 3 BABs aired up in that locker, now the box eats up that space.
Edit: found a bad pic of the amps that Mike might be able to identify what they are.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5ad2f73539.jpg
And pic of factory box for what it’s worth
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ec96217f20.jpg
Those are the Syn-DX amps. I cant remember what year Moomba switched from the HTX to Syn-DX, but they didnt run the HTX series for too long.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1184530b16.jpg
With dual batteries, do you connect the amp directly to the battery or somewhere on the battery switch?
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