New Software Issues and Performance - 2022 Mojo

So, we’re finally getting some hours on the new Mojo and we were able to play some more with ballast and surf settings. I have to say, coming from a 2013 Mojo, I’m a little disappointed. Now, I know it takes some time to dial things in… I had the last boat since new and it took a little tinkering. I also understand this means adding more ballast or lead to get things right.

I love tech and have an engineering/product development background. Part of the reason for moving to a newer boat was to take advantage of all the cool gadgets intended to make life easier. Inclinometers, draft sensors, ballast sensors, automatic surf and yaw tabs, etc. Honestly, my experience thus far has been less than wonderful. Especially when these boats cost as much as a mortgage!

So far, after experiencing some heavy listing last year in the first hour or so of running the boat (explained on another thread), we made the trip to our dealer this Spring (2 hrs each way) simply for a software update. The boat wasn’t taken off of the trailer during this visit so things were certainly not calibrated which doesn’t help matters any. I have calibrated the inclinometer. We’ve not experienced that specific listing issue since but there are some anomalies with the software and user interface, and a lot of nuisance error messages.

Here are a few things we’ve noticed so far related to the most recent software:

-Amplitude potential vs actual… 86% but you can see how low the gauge indicators are (this is with stock ballast full, an 850 sack on the floor and 4 people in the boat). Those indicators don’t match the percentage. I’ve not calibrated the draft sensors yet, not sure if that will help or not.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...46f8aeeb89.jpg

-There are a lot of ballast leak detection errors and there are no leaks. Also the occasional errors around amplitude unavailable or move weight here or there. All of these things are intended to be helpful but they take up the whole screen and it’s frustrating when they aren’t real or actionable.
-When using the "Go Home" preset the screen shows "Autowake Inactive" which I believe drains ballast, levels the boat using the surf tabs and commands 25 mph cruising speed. With the tabs deployed trying to level the boat, isn't Autowake Active? In fact the presets only work when AutoWake is engaged. *Notice here that ballast gauge indicators here seem inline with a lower displacement.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fd1ef55df7.jpg


-I noticed that if I was just slowing moving along with the speed control at 5mph for instance, and the throttle was pushed beyond where it needed to be and you activated one of the Autowake functions or Go Home the boat would speed from that 5mph to something much faster (25mph for go home). This could be an unintended action, I'm not sure how this could be mitigated but could present a risk. On my 13, if I had the sped set at 22 and then decided I wanted to turn off the sped control and go faster… I had to reduce the throttle below and go below the set speed before I could accelerate.


I know that SC, my dealer and the community here will all help remedy my concerns (or tell me if I’m doing something wrong). I’m simply making this post to share my experience as I assume others are experiencing the same. Overall, we love the boat… just have some things to work out yet. I’m sure we’ll get the weight and settings to a point that produce far better waves and wakes than my 2013 as well. Thanks!


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Until your boat is calibrated properly I would not recommend using AutoWake. I would also suggest turning off some of the smart tech features to avoid the pop ups. It’s a shame that this was not done properly at the dealer. You cannot calibrate either item properly without being on the water. Following a proper calibration I would recommend getting some solid in-boat instruction time from your dealer. Seeing that you are on the engineering side of things, you will love the features once you understand them.


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Thanks for the response Jon. I’m sure we’ll get everything sorted. I hope some of my comments/feedback help with development and diagnosis. I did previously calibrate the inclinometer on our first outing after the update because it was pretty far off, that did help.

I don’t want to throw my dealer under the bus either, it wasn’t very nice outside when I dropped off the boat for the software update and they’ve otherwise been accommodating.

We got out again today and I did recalibrate the draft sensor. That seemed to stop the error codes from popping up. This didn’t seem to correct the other items I’d pointed out though.

Our surf session was much better… I tuned the port side to run at 9.5 pitch and -0.5 roll without AutoWake on and then I changed my AutoWake set points to match. The wife and I both had great sets and the family had a great day on the water.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1f1c75a24c.jpg

I’ll have the dealer look things over when I have it in soon for the first maintenance and other warranty work. I will say that it would be super helpful if more resources were available directly to the customer (write ups, instructional and technical videos, software downloads, etc.). In my experience, many of these dealers are super busy with sales, mechanical repairs and general maintenance and they don’t have time to learn the ins and outs of these tech items and spend time with their customers exploring settings. It would be great if I didn’t have to take a day off of work and tow across the state for a software update. I understand the customer can’t do everything though.

Thanks again!


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Thanks for the feedback. Our current model is for us to train and teach our dealers and then they spend the time training and educating their customers. These boats, as you know, are very detailed and we feel that the customer will get the best experience from in person one on one training rather than a few general videos. For many reasons we are trying to avoid the factory to customer direct route that automotive seems to be going.


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Jon/Uniwarking I have my boat in at the dealer right now having the software upgrades completed this weekend. I am familiar with the inclinometer calibration and was able to perform it successfully last season but am less familiar with the draft sensor calibration.

I was advised by my dealer I wouldn't need to have the boat in the water to do the software upgrades. I have all my ballast bags in storage several hours from my dealer.

Jon - Can you speak about the draft sensor calibration? Generally speaking what needs to be done there?


(And for the record I'm with Uniwarking " it would be super helpful if more resources were available directly to the customer (write ups, instructional and technical videos, software downloads, etc.")

Quote:

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Originally Posted by uniwarking

So, we’re finally getting some hours on the new Mojo and we were able to play some more with ballast and surf settings. I have to say, coming from a 2013 Mojo, I’m a little disappointed. Now, I know it takes some time to dial things in… I had the last boat since new and it took a little tinkering. I also understand this means adding more ballast or lead to get things right.

I love tech and have an engineering/product development background. Part of the reason for moving to a newer boat was to take advantage of all the cool gadgets intended to make life easier. Inclinometers, draft sensors, ballast sensors, automatic surf and yaw tabs, etc. Honestly, my experience thus far has been less than wonderful. Especially when these boats cost as much as a mortgage!

So far, after experiencing some heavy listing last year in the first hour or so of running the boat (explained on another thread), we made the trip to our dealer this Spring (2 hrs each way) simply for a software update. The boat wasn’t taken off of the trailer during this visit so things were certainly not calibrated which doesn’t help matters any. I have calibrated the inclinometer. We’ve not experienced that specific listing issue since but there are some anomalies with the software and user interface, and a lot of nuisance error messages.

Here are a few things we’ve noticed so far related to the most recent software:

-Amplitude potential vs actual… 86% but you can see how low the gauge indicators are (this is with stock ballast full, an 850 sack on the floor and 4 people in the boat). Those indicators don’t match the percentage. I’ve not calibrated the draft sensors yet, not sure if that will help or not.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...46f8aeeb89.jpg

-There are a lot of ballast leak detection errors and there are no leaks. Also the occasional errors around amplitude unavailable or move weight here or there. All of these things are intended to be helpful but they take up the whole screen and it’s frustrating when they aren’t real or actionable.
-When using the "Go Home" preset the screen shows "Autowake Inactive" which I believe drains ballast, levels the boat using the surf tabs and commands 25 mph cruising speed. With the tabs deployed trying to level the boat, isn't Autowake Active? In fact the presets only work when AutoWake is engaged. *Notice here that ballast gauge indicators here seem inline with a lower displacement.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fd1ef55df7.jpg


-I noticed that if I was just slowing moving along with the speed control at 5mph for instance, and the throttle was pushed beyond where it needed to be and you activated one of the Autowake functions or Go Home the boat would speed from that 5mph to something much faster (25mph for go home). This could be an unintended action, I'm not sure how this could be mitigated but could present a risk. On my 13, if I had the sped set at 22 and then decided I wanted to turn off the sped control and go faster… I had to reduce the throttle below and go below the set speed before I could accelerate.


I know that SC, my dealer and the community here will all help remedy my concerns (or tell me if I’m doing something wrong). I’m simply making this post to share my experience as I assume others are experiencing the same. Overall, we love the boat… just have some things to work out yet. I’m sure we’ll get the weight and settings to a point that produce far better waves and wakes than my 2013 as well. Thanks!


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my feelings match yours a bit, ill blame the engineering/product design background that we share haha.

after a few times out you will get it dialed in. I am still working on mine, but happy so far other than some OCD build issues i have found. the leak warning is because the fill time is too short. I was getting the same, all bags were set to 6:30. changed all to 10 min and clocked actual for overflow, someone on here told me thats how they did it and it works great. ended up with 6:40 for front and 8:20 for rears.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hayden

Jon/Uniwarking I have my boat in at the dealer right now having the software upgrades completed this weekend. I am familiar with the inclinometer calibration and was able to perform it successfully last season but am less familiar with the draft sensor calibration.

I was advised by my dealer I wouldn't need to have the boat in the water to do the software upgrades. I have all my ballast bags in storage several hours from my dealer.

Jon - Can you speak about the draft sensor calibration? Generally speaking what needs to be done there?


(And for the record I'm with Uniwarking " it would be super helpful if more resources were available directly to the customer (write ups, instructional and technical videos, software downloads, etc.")

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I would love to know how to calibrate or fix my draft sensor as well. I like others find that it only registers some times almost like it has air trapped in it not allowing water in but more often than not both arrows are at the very bottom and my displacement % will say 96% LOL. I just tend to ignore it as I have made adjustments so the flow plates are not affected by this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TXSurf4

I would love to know how to calibrate or fix my draft sensor as well. I like others find that it only registers some times almost like it has air trapped in it not allowing water in but more often than not both arrows are at the very bottom and my displacement % will say 96% LOL. I just tend to ignore it as I have made adjustments so the flow plates are not affected by this.

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according to the settings screen you just gotta be in the water with engine off, everything empty. makes me wonder how empty, fuel, gear, beer??? haha

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Originally Posted by vdubnick

according to the settings screen you just got to be in the water with engine off, everything empty. makes me wonder how empty, fuel, gear, beer??? haha

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I know for sure that this is how they advise on doing the inclinometer but didn't t realize the draft sensor was done the same way. Anyone else able to confirm this?

We had our first week of surfing this season and I'm very satisfied with where we've got the boat.

We did the sound dampening mod, Larry Arizona, described. My only comment here would be to use a spray bottle as he says, and don't dunk the pads fully in water as it does take away from the strength of the adhesive, (despite the vendor claiming it doesn't). We did the transom hatch, main floor above the fuel tank, and on the underside of the engine compartment. I still stuff the boat cover under the rear transom hatch seat.

For our heavily weighted, 2021 Mojo, the ACME 3407 15.5x13x0.150" is by far better than the ACME 2775 15x12.5x0.75" I used last season. I suspect the cup difference makes up a bit of this. Fully ballasted with 4 adults, 3 kids on board I'm only pushing 4400 rpm (was 4900 last season).

One criticism I have is with the default pitch/roll values with the new software. I ran 9-9.5 pitch and then -1 stbd, or 5 port for roll and found it worked great. I also ran wake plate between 0-15 and stbd plate 55, port plate 65. When I go into the defaults for setting the pitch/roll the values for roll are defaulting to 5 for stbd and -3 port. This seems wrong. Has anyone else found this?

We turn off autowake, fill to 100% on all bags, and then move people/lead around the boat to hit our numbers. We use the screen touchpad for transfers and never use the toggle switch. Despite that I still have had at least one instance in the last 6 hours where the port plate did not reset normally and I had to turn the boat on/off to get it retract/reset properly.

(We had a lot of pollen this year and I hadn't wiped the screens.)

https://i.imgur.com/x0ZpH15.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TDWOMwQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2GtKlae.jpg

Could you not calibrate you boat with weight in you boat as long as it's sitting flat on the water?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by duch17

Could you not calibrate you boat with weight in you boat as long as it's sitting flat on the water?

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If you're referring to inclinometer calibration, any ballast weight (water/leadwake) is going to skew the numbers in my opinion. If you're referring to the draft sensor, I don't know and haven't seen Jon/Goose comment on that point.

Instructions for calibration of both sensors is in the display manual. The draft sensor will be very impacted by weight. The inclinometer zero calibration is the reference point for pitch and roll and is intended to be the boat sitting “flat.” I think it would be really hard to know if your boat was flat I’d you had a lot of gear/ballast/lead/people on board.


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I was not impressed at 1st as well on my 22. There is a post on here that has pitch and roll setting for ext surf side. Great info. I have a small crew. My wife and 3 kids. 10 6 and 3. I run all ballast full and have 300 led in nose. I do not use auto wake. I use switches to fill bags and make sure they are full. Starboard surf inside 13.5 pitch and 7.5 roll and port surf I use 9.5 pitch and -3.5 roll. 11mph. I don’t really touch wake plate much at all. Wave is nice and clean and can surf it close up and far back for days. More people I get the bigger and even better the wave is. I plane to get more led but just haven’t yet but I’m happy now and it’s better than my 12 mojo. In the beginning like you my 12 was better but now the 22 takes it. It just takes time to play around with it.


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If I want disable autofill what should my trigger and trigger margin be set at

2019 mojo with new software

Should trigger be set really high(myguess)?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by duch17

If I want disable autofill what should my trigger and trigger margin be set at

2019 mojo with new software

Should trigger be set really high(myguess)?

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Not sure what you are referring to here....do you mean "disable autowake" or do you mean "reset/customize ballast timers"? Both are done via the display under vessel settings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hayden

Not sure what you are referring to here....do you mean "disable autowake" or do you mean "reset/customize ballast timers"? Both are done via the display under vessel settings.

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Disable autofill on the development page, basically adjust the trigger point so it doesn't refill my ballasts.
I will be back in Invermere hopefully Friday and be able to adjust it again and try I out.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by duch17

Disable autofill on the development page, basically adjust the trigger point so it doesn't refill my ballasts.
I will be back in Invermere hopefully Friday and be able to adjust it again and try I out.

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Attachment 30483
Picture of the setting page

Quote:

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Originally Posted by duch17

Attachment 30483
Picture of the setting page

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I don’t think you need to get into the dealer development page and have them tinker with thresholds, the new SW has a smart tech menu that allows you to turn off the ballast auto fill if I recall correctly


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What version of the software are you using? Did you need to use the dealer code to get to the development screen? I don't remember that screen being available, (I may have missed it).

My software version: MoombaBP_MY22_47740_20211206

Anyone have the new 2023 software file? I have updated my boat last year for 2022 and have the instructions on how to do it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cozilla

Anyone have the new 2023 software file? I have updated my boat last year for 2022 and have the instructions on how to do it.

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I'd be interested in this!!! I've done plenty of software and firmware updates. I know dealers can do it, but if it's as easy as plugging in a USB and navigating a couple screens, I can manage.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hayden

If you're referring to inclinometer calibration, any ballast weight (water/leadwake) is going to skew the numbers in my opinion. If you're referring to the draft sensor, I don't know and haven't seen Jon/Goose comment on that point.

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So by end of summer i finally figured out my boat was probably around 13 deg of pitch, with all water ballast and 1400lb of lead. LOL
Pulled all led out recalibrated the inclinometer and put it all back in and voila!
first time in two years I can have all bags full and hit all the settings on autowake.
This was no small feat since my boat was on our buoy, had small zodiac with all the lead and other belongings in it until i could zero it.
Having second thoughts about upgrading the software to the 2023, would i have to zero the inclinometer again...
Thanks for everyone's help!!!, The wife can take the boat out now and figure take the kids surfing when im not around:cool:

Somewhat related to this; we pull our batteries out and store them inside in the winter. I suspect (but don't know for sure) that doing this means I need to do recalibrate the inclonometer when I reconnect the batteries every season. Anyone can confirm?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hayden

Somewhat related to this; we pull our batteries out and store them inside in the winter. I suspect (but don't know for sure) that doing this means I need to do recalibrate the inclonometer when I reconnect the batteries every season. Anyone can confirm?

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It would be the same as shutting off your batteries, there isolated. It must be a calibration in the software and not something that is power reliant.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by duch17

It would be the same as shutting off your batteries, there isolated. It must be a calibration in the software and not something that is power reliant.

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Just as an FYI, you can turn off the battery switch, but there are still some loads still on the battery. I am not sure if the computer memory is drawing power from the main battery (I suspect it isn't) but your bilge pump will still operate even with the battery switch off.

Anything that is directly wired to the battery such as your bilge, pretty sure that would be the only thing wired direct.