Dead fusion MSRA205

Hey guys - for whatever reason my factory head unit (msra-205) crapped out and will only show “Fusion” on the splash screen at turn on. I’ve tied all kinds of power cuts to reset with no luck. I always play BT off phone and have the head united wired to an Exile ZLD.

Would like to replace with as little rewiring as possible. Recommendations? Looking at the MSRA-210 and the 60. Is the only real functional difference (for my need) the 210 has the ability to pair with a wireless remote puck?

Other options outside of fusion? Looking to keep the dash cutout as close to same as possible.

Thanks!

Just saw the other recent thread where MLA recommended the 210.

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Originally Posted by BigOrange

Hey guys - for whatever reason my factory head unit (msra-205) crapped out and will only show “Fusion” on the splash screen at turn on. I’ve tied all kinds of power cuts to reset with no luck. I always play BT off phone and have the head united wired to an Exile ZLD.

Would like to replace with as little rewiring as possible. Recommendations? Looking at the MSRA-210 and the 60. Is the only real functional difference (for my need) the 210 has the ability to pair with a wireless remote puck?

Other options outside of fusion? Looking to keep the dash cutout as close to same as possible.

Thanks!

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If your running the Exile ZLD which I have since they came out, Call Exile talk to Donovan and tell him I refered you - Get the Exile Bluetooth adapter it plugs directly into the ZLD and you're Phone connects to it.

In my 13 Mojo I have never even used the head unit - I only BT to the ZLD.

I had a 40th Anniversary Vette and wanted to upgrade the stereo with out changing the factory look, I installed a Javlin amp and just a BT adapter and ran the stereo off my phone.

Mike Mandley

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Originally Posted by BigOrange

Hey guys - for whatever reason my factory head unit (msra-205) crapped out and will only show “Fusion” on the splash screen at turn on. I’ve tied all kinds of power cuts to reset with no luck. I always play BT off phone and have the head united wired to an Exile ZLD.

Would like to replace with as little rewiring as possible. Recommendations? Looking at the MSRA-210 and the 60. Is the only real functional difference (for my need) the 210 has the ability to pair with a wireless remote puck?

Other options outside of fusion? Looking to keep the dash cutout as close to same as possible.

Thanks!

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I had the same issue. Just found a new unit in Calgary. They have 1 left $199 CDNAttachment 30328

I know that might be a good deal, but I would seriously consider getting a current production model like the RA210. Its a much better unit. The 205 was really an entry-level unit. The 210 has a better bluetooth, DSP, 4 chnl pre-amp RCA outputs + woofer on each zone.

Thanks for the replies. I did go ahead and get the 210 because I didn’t want to wait around. Probably would have been fine with just a BT adaptor but oh well. Just need to find time to finish the install!

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Originally Posted by MLA

I know that might be a good deal, but I would seriously consider getting a current production model like the RA210. Its a much better unit. The 205 was really an entry-level unit. The 210 has a better bluetooth, DSP, 4 chnl pre-amp RCA outputs + woofer on each zone.

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wish that SC offered the RA770 or RA670 as an upgrade option, or included with the rev10 upgrade ... the RA70 is lackluster, i know it would require cockpit redesign, but c'mon haha

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Originally Posted by vdubnick

wish that SC offered the RA770 or RA670 as an upgrade option, or included with the rev10 upgrade ... the RA70 is lackluster, i know it would require cockpit redesign, but c'mon haha

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Agree! Would have paid for that.

Does anyone know if the output voltage on the 210 is higher than on the 70?

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Originally Posted by vdubnick

wish that SC offered the RA770 or RA670 as an upgrade option, or included with the rev10 upgrade ... the RA70 is lackluster, i know it would require cockpit redesign, but c'mon haha

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Just modify the boat. Our last tige had stereo integrated into tige GO touchscreen. It was subpar to say the least. Installed fusion HU next to throttle. Worked great and much better functionality than factory.
Was a lot of measuring before cutting tho...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ec298d46ee.jpg

Guys need some help....

As mentioned earlier, my 205 crapped out last week.
I was planning to upgrade to the 210 but I also have the NRV200i transom remote. I know the 210 runs NMEA2000 network but do I need to power it or will the 210 supply power to the network like the 205 did?

Just trying to order everything at once so I don't get it in there and lose my transom remote. We use it a lot when anchored and swimming.

Thanks for the help

My 205 also stopped working but it coincides with the replacement of one of my amps. I ha e found a random black wire over by my amp that isnt hooked to anything. Tracing it back to the harness, it goes into a butt connector and turns to yellow black. It was pushed back behind the amp panel so no clue what it goes to. Not sure if the 2 are relatedn but usually the problem starts with whatever you touched last. In my case since mine wont even power on Im curious if this wire has something to do with the amp system. Is there a place to get a wiring diagram for these boats?

Yellow is typically constant power. Red is ignition power
Moomba ties the 2 together in the harness and links them both to ignition 12v.
Can you go past the butt splice and see what it connects?

My 205 would power but not turn off...stuck on splash screen forever.
Installed the 210last week and gained a much better interface. Not even using the speaker outputs since all mine use amps. Had to buy a power drop for the NMEA network to work and power my transom remote.

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Originally Posted by Holdmybeer

Yellow is typically constant power. Red is ignition power
Moomba ties the 2 together in the harness and links them both to ignition 12v.
Can you go past the butt splice and see what it connects?

My 205 would power but not turn off...stuck on splash screen forever.
Installed the 210last week and gained a much better interface. Not even using the speaker outputs since all mine use amps. Had to buy a power drop for the NMEA network to work and power my transom remote.

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So the 210 will work with the factory transom remote? Where did you order it all from?

Order the 210 off Amazon along with the NMEA harness you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-270000-...a-568826969162

I wired the red to red and black to black in the radio harness. Plug the backbone cable together to the tee under the dash and done. Make sure and attach the terminator back in and I had to reset the remote once everything was powered for it to see the new radio

No more BT200 adapter either. Bluetooth is built into the 210.

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Yellow is typically constant power.

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For a head unit, yes. On a boat, yellow is ground.

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Originally Posted by MLA

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Yellow is typically constant power.

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For a head unit, yes. On a boat, yellow is ground.

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This wire is not at the head unit but on port side behind the amp area. It is solid bla k up to butt connector then its black with yellow tracer. Gonna take my meter over there tonight and see if its carrying power or not. Everything is the same as previous as far as I can tell so I dont think its my work thats caused it to stop working, but that doesnt mean anything and I may try removing this amp from the circuit to see if it kicks back on. Just frustrating , boat upgrades are killin me and its cutting into the fuel fund, plus its not fun to do all the work and then it not work.

So got a meter on the mystery wire over by the amp. Had 10.5 volts on it. Then I crawled under the dash and checked power and ground to my head unit which were good. Fuse was also good. While I was inder there I found the black ground from the head unit traces back to the connector where the red and yellow wires merge. On the other side of that connector the wire turns to a black yellow tracer wire. I guess my next move will be to check continuity thru the wire and see if its the same black yellow tracer wire on the other side of the boat. Then I would need to determine why it has power on it or if has rubbed thru etc.

A bad ground will cause this to happen...the ground "floats" and works slightly but will hard voltage like this and not complete the circuit.

Hopefully just need to tighten a ground at the buss bar.

So they dont make the 205 anymore and im being kinda salty about buying a 210 so I ordered a 35 dollar bluetooth module with amp remote off amazon. All we use it for is streaming so it has rca preouts and a remote wire to turn on the amp. Gonna give it a try before I shell out 400 bucks for a 210.

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Originally Posted by Mxmark4

So they dont make the 205 anymore and im being kinda salty about buying a 210 so I ordered a 35 dollar bluetooth module with amp remote off amazon. All we use it for is streaming so it has rca preouts and a remote wire to turn on the amp. Gonna give it a try before I shell out 400 bucks for a 210.

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Yeah...I felt the same way but we use the transom remote so much my wife forced my hand. Amazon had it for $330 + the nmea cable it was $350-ish.
Instal was quick but it's over with now.

So I have been pretty upset over the fact my boat is eating my wallet this seaso. Between prop strikes killin my days from driftwood and such to the audio system crapping out I have spent significantly more than I wanted this year. I eneded up buying a bluetooth module that will power both amps added a 4 way splitter and ran rcas to both amps so I have all my zones going. Need to tune the amp but its loud! Control everything from my phone and works decent so far.

Bust
Out
Another
Thousand

It sucks trust me! I did the same thing this year. Leaking shaft seal and dead 205. If I had to pay service fees also, I'm not sure these would have been fixed this year.

Same thing, I do all my own labor, otherwise we wouldnt have a boat. . Swapped prop out last night but now theres a trip to OJ for a prop rebalance and cleanup. The 210 was gonna break the bank after dropping 600 bucks on new speakers and 2 new cans and a bigger amp. Throw in a new wakeboard rope and the foil board I bought and theres no more room in the fun budget except for fuel.

But look how much more fun you bought. Have to have loud tunes and the new foil board has to be fun. I want to try it but I have to learn how to stay in the pocket first....lmao

I've definitely been pleased with the 210 vs. the old 205 factory unit. Of course it comes with a price tag!

2nd time out with the new 210.
It's dead now....fusion splash screen. Hope it is just a dud and going back to amazon

Im sure amazon will take it back little questions asked, but for those following along, Fusion carries a 3 year warranty when purchased through an authorized dealer. Not saying any sources are or are not authorized, just stating it might be something to look closer at before clicking the buy it now button.

Try to update the unit with the latest software. It mat reboot.

Do you think these boats have a power surge or something that makes them keep popping these units? Mine didnt get stuck on the power screen but just would not turn on. Not sure why they go bad so easy.

So I fixed my 205! And the thing that freaked me out the most about it was that it was my own fault. The loose wire I mentioned previously was my ground but what got me about itbwas that when I putnit to ground it turned off my amps. Welln it was turning off my amps because when the headunit powers on it turns the amps on for due to my amp setup. So with my son today helping me out I hooked the wire to the ground post and had him turn on the headunit. Fired right back up. Now I just need a set of rca splitters. Kinda irritated that the wire was just smashed between a washer and a nut. Should have had a terminal end on it. Yet another typical case of look where you messed with it last has bitten me in the ass.

Anybody know how to usb flash and maybe save this unit when it is stuck on the splash screen?

https://www.google.com/url?q=https:/...KW0wo-WwhTAcrK

Youtube vid on flashing thru usb drive

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Originally Posted by Mxmark4

https://www.google.com/url?q=https:/...KW0wo-WwhTAcrK

Youtube vid on flashing thru usb drive

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Unfortunately, I can not get to the anything bit the splash screen on the new 210

Well Amazon returned the 210.
Called Fusion and was told to wire any new radio similar to a car. Yellow to +12v and red to ignition or switch +12v.

Bought another 210 fr crutchfield (authorized fusion/Garmin vendor) amd just installed.
Wire red to aux switch on dash yellow to constant +12 under dash. Hope this last longer than 2 weeks or I'm switching companies.

I do like the switch for the radio. It doesn't kick off turning the key or starting the boat. The constant +12v should keep the transistors powered so they don't power spike with each cycle. I shall see.