Help please....have a couple issues

Well I have a problem and looking for some help.

Madien voyage this year I took on a little water didn't think anything of it. Found the air vents of my ibs were open and some water came out.
Day 2- no ballast leaks same amount of water but kids were in and out and we were surfing.
Day 3- water again, again surfing. Maybe 1 gallon or 2 on the water for 7hrs, more than day 2.
Day 4 kids everywhere took some water over the bow. In and out doing sports again 7hrs on water. Bilge never ran but maybe 3 gallons. Checked rear and saw some water around the rudder box.

Check tonight....rudder wobbles and I can hear water/grease mix slop.
How hard of a job? What parts and where to get parts? Is this rebuildable or replaced?

Also found the brackets that hold the raw water pump are lose but the bolts are tight. Are they lose on purpose for vibration?

Found the whole rudder assembly online.
There has to be a rebuild kit.

https://waterskis.com/supra-moomba-rudder-assembly-203/

Sounds like warrantee work. Contact your service center.


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This guy seems like he has your same issues
DIY How to Rebuild a Boat Rudder
YouTube · Bullshitkorner
Jul 28, 2012
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1623115022944

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2in2out

Sounds like warrantee work. Contact your service center.


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Warranty from 2015? If that is true then I will contact a dealer but I'm not the first owner.

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Originally Posted by HFarr

This guy seems like he has your same issues
DIY How to Rebuild a Boat Rudder
YouTube · Bullshitkorner
Jul 28, 2012
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1623115022944

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I watched that video. Looks like a 2hr job but no idea where to get parts or if they make a rebuild kit.

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Originally Posted by Holdmybeer

Warranty from 2015? If that is true then I will contact a dealer but I'm not the first owner.

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My bad, I got you confused with another member of the forum. I thought you had a new Makai.


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if it was me, worst case you are out $400 for the new rudder if that's the issue so that being said, I would yank it apart and head down to the local boat shop and talk to the service guys. doesn't have to be a skiers dealer. any reputable repair shop should have worked on inboards. ask them what they see and where to get parts. you might get a contact for parts OR they might suggest for $xx, they rebuild or order parts and sell to you. with as busy as they all are right now, I would be surprised if any balk at helping knowing they have more business than they can support so ordering the rebuild parts from them and diy are saving them some time and making them a few $$.

if you get apart and that's not the issue it'll at least take that off the table.

you sure it's not coming from the shaft seal? can't say in all the years on here that I have read about many rebuilding rudder boxes/shafts. shaft seals are much more common to leak and water could be pooling around the rudder box?
either way good luck.

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Originally Posted by sandm

if it was me, worst case you are out $400 for the new rudder if that's the issue so that being said, I would yank it apart and head down to the local boat shop and talk to the service guys. doesn't have to be a skiers dealer. any reputable repair shop should have worked on inboards. ask them what they see and where to get parts. you might get a contact for parts OR they might suggest for $xx, they rebuild or order parts and sell to you. with as busy as they all are right now, I would be surprised if any balk at helping knowing they have more business than they can support so ordering the rebuild parts from them and diy are saving them some time and making them a few $$.

if you get apart and that's not the issue it'll at least take that off the table.

you sure it's not coming from the shaft seal? can't say in all the years on here that I have read about many rebuilding rudder boxes/shafts. shaft seals are much more common to leak and water could be pooling around the rudder box?
either way good luck.

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After an evening of searching, I'm not.finding anything for rebuild. Your suggestion is more than likely my route.

I thought shaft seal first but nothing around the dripless. Had the wife drive while I carefully inspected.
The rudder is wobbling. Looking at videos I would call it excessive but not horrible. I actually saw and heard water-grease mix come out around the rudder shaft.

Im not sure about the rudder however 1-3 gallons of water after a full day of water sports doesn't sound to concerning to me? I mean until the bilge kicks in I wouldn't even think twice about it... Am I wrong?

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Originally Posted by Josh828

Im not sure about the rudder however 1-3 gallons of water after a full day of water sports doesn't sound to concerning to me? I mean until the bilge kicks in I wouldn't even think twice about it... Am I wrong?

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I'm starting to calm down about it now, after reading people run their boats all season with the bilge kicking on every 20-30 minutes like it is normal. The water is very minimal when I did not have a crew of 11 (mostly kids) tracking water in. Again, bilge never ran, so I am going to check to make sure it does work before going back out.



Anyone know if the brackets on the raw water pump are suppose to be tight? Do the bolts bottom out and the brackets stay loose for vibration reasons?

our first supra leaked a bit and bilge came on every hour or 2. I think it was my mediocre job installing the packing cord as it was not a dripless shaft seal. our last 3 tiges didn't drip a drop in the bilge to the point our last one never once ran the bilge with 15hrs on it and hull was nice and dry when I sold it. I never once removed a plug during the season on the 3 of them until end of season clean out.

kids climbing in and out and splashing around, water over the bow/back or ballast leaks will get some water but if you are only tooling around, these new boats today should be dry as a bone from the rudder/shaft/exhaust/thruhulls.
any water leaks means something is amiss.
all imo...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sandm

our first supra leaked a bit and bilge came on every hour or 2. I think it was my mediocre job installing the packing cord as it was not a dripless shaft seal. our last 3 tiges didn't drip a drop in the bilge to the point our last one never once ran the bilge with 15hrs on it and hull was nice and dry when I sold it. I never once removed a plug during the season on the 3 of them until end of season clean out.

kids climbing in and out and splashing around, water over the bow/back or ballast leaks will get some water but if you are only tooling around, these new boats today should be dry as a bone from the rudder/shaft/exhaust/thruhulls.
any water leaks means something is amiss.
all imo...

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I'm with you 100%. But my initial, MY BOAT IS LEAKING, stress is now gone. I contacted a few place about rebuild kits and they all say to convert to the Marine Hardware version. I guess it is common part between mfg. and easy to rebuild for $17 in seals if it fails again. Otherwise, I have to buy the whole thing and have an extra rudder. THE MH version also has the grease zerk.

Called SEF today and talked to their marine expert. Gave him the SC number for the whole rudder assembly. He called back 15 minutes later and said I need 2 o-rings and he is shipping me 4 for free.

Old style dries out and cracks with every winterization. New version is Viton and should last a bit longer. Going to get this done before my Norris trip.

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Originally Posted by Holdmybeer

Called SEF today and talked to their marine expert. Gave him the SC number for the whole rudder assembly. He called back 15 minutes later and said I need 2 o-rings and he is shipping me 4 for free.

Old style dries out and cracks with every winterization. New version is Viton and should last a bit longer. Going to get this done before my Norris trip.

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Funny sometimes how a 50 cent part can cripple an 80 Thousand dollar ride!

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congrats on the fix. glad it's looking easier and MUCH cheaper than a new assembly.

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Originally Posted by HFarr

Funny sometimes how a 50 cent part can cripple an 80 Thousand dollar ride!

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No joke there. Seems like that is my luck most of the time.

Just wanted to let everyone know that the local dealer may be a good resource (gave me the part number and SEF contact info), but the OEM's are willing to go the distance in this community also. Very rare in this day and age.

That's awesome that they would do that for you. Good company and good people. Not to sound like a kid a church camp singing Kumbaya, but the world would be a better place if more people and businesses did that. I used to be in sales at a former job, and it was good to me. My attitude was to try just as hard to find my customer the strange left-handed metric self tapping thumbscrew with a captive washer (not that there us such a thing) worth only 75 cents that he only needed one of, as I would to get them $90K worth of fiberoptic cable. Because it is often the little stuff that nobody is willing to help with that ends up being the biggest headache. Some customers really appreciated that and kept it in mind when it came to who they were going to spend the big dollars with. Of course, some didn't care either. But that's just part of it.

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And that comment I made about the 59 cent part keeping an 80K whatever from working is Very true. Had a friend in highschool one time that had a high dollar ride. We were all going cruising in it one night and he discovered he had a flat tire. He stripped one of his lug nuts when he went to change it. That dollar (or less, but it was chrome, so probably at least a dollar) part kept that whole car and all of us from rolling that night. We took a buick century instead!

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For anyone that may need this....might attempt this fix this weekend. Rain in the forecast.

1-1/8 ID
Attachment 29813

1-3/8 OD
Attachment 29814

1/8 (3mm) thick
Attachment 29815

Good luck and let us know how it turns out


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