Printable View
Does anybody know of a simple out of the Box combo that I can buy and install with relative ease to add a better sub to my Max? I have the amp already but what I need is a new speaker and an enclosure for the back of it. I don't need over the top crazy just substantially better than what I have if it can be done. Or should I just take the boat to a stereo shop and have them build some thing custom?
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
What's in there now?
I seem to remember a sealed box under the observer compartment?
Do you currently have the FA Sub under the helm? If so you can always have it professionally tuned by a shop along with the rest of your system. That made a world of difference for mine. I still have the want for a little more bass but it definitely made good use of what is there. If I end up adding anything I will either have my shop build me something or try to order the box that SC is putting in the 2021 Moombas.
Just pony up and go custom. [emoji16]
This WS REVO XXX in a ported enclosure is a beast!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ab970e2174.jpg
Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk
Every time I see your setup it makes me wish the Makai had a sort of closed helm like the Craz bc that setup is soo sweet!! I think the Craz is the only boat left with that style of helm.Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Hinojosa
Damn, I forgot the helm is totally different [emoji23]
Not sure how much air space could be built into an enclosure with the new style helms but something in the OB should be doable to support an SPL type sub.
I've seen several done that way with a port cut into the fiberglass of the OB so sound can get out.
Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk
My first question, is the woofer and amp working as designed. 2nd, is the (entire) system properly tuned? 3rd, is the amp's output maximizing the woofer's power handling?Quote:
I don't need over the top crazy just substantially better than what I have if it can be done.
I realize you may not know the answers to all of these at this moment, so it more food for thought, then me actually waiting on the answers. This is how i would approach the boat before making any equipment changes.
The revo-10FA is no slouch. Show me a marine 10 with similar specs. With proper wattage and a proper tune, it makes for a solid setup. Is it going to compete with a 1000W 12" in a ported enclosure? No, but neither will a Honda Accord V's a Corvette.
Ive never measured, but by the eyeball, theres not enough room to upgrade to the 12FA. Thats about 1.5" difference in diameter. The huge hurdle I think, is getting an enclosure back there. The only way this makes sense, is if you went with a new 10" woofer in a ported enclosure, or 10" woofer in a sealed enclosure with an RMS that 2-3 times that of the revo-10FA, and then fed it that additional amp wattage. At that point, your are going down the over the top highway :cool:
So the amp and sub are the stock wetsounds amp with Stock fee air sub. I had a stereo shop install a new amp for hull speakers. We used the old amp for the sub alone. It sounded good in the shop, but all agreed it needed more. Hence now that it is preseason, I would like to address the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
What amp is now driving the in-boats? If you made a significant increase in the in-boats wattage (75W rms to each to ???), then you may no be outpacing the woofer thats left on the OEM amp thats delivering up to 300W rms @ 4 ohm. You could swap the OEM 6 chnl (HTX IIRC) to the Syn-DX2 for the woofer. This would have an available 750W rms x 1 @ 4 ohm. Way more then the woofer needs, but it has some tuning advantages over the bridged HTX that will help with sound quality and output.Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow
Again, you have to make absolutely sure, the entire system is tuned correctly. From the front to the back. A small setting in the head unit can have a huge impact on the woofer's performance.
This [emoji1426], SO much this!Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Flienlow, listen to MLA. He's the master audio guru and won't steer you wrong.
My banging system is in large part to his guidance.
Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the advice. I am not sure what there would be left to tune? I dont think the shop left anything on the table. It has been pretty well logged here that the stock free air sub is well.. sub par, and probably should be replaced with something enclosed especially for a boat on the water.Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Hinojosa
The woofer is absolutely NOT sub par. Its a 10" marine woofer that I wont hesitate to drive with an honest 500W rms. Point to one that handles more. The reality is, a 10" acoustic-suspension woofer driven with your existing 300W rms, is going to move as much air i.e. boom, slam, pound, hammer, etc, as your existing 10" infinite-baffle woofer. Will they sound the same? No. A small sealed enclosure can have a little steeper low end roll off compared to a FA, thus having a narrower band width. This is where words like crisp, snappy, tight, come into the conversation. Other things that can come into play with an IB, is the cavity behind it large enough? IS the wall thick/robust enough or is it flexing? Are there any leaks around the basket flange? Any of these will impact an IB woofer.
300W rms is not bad for the woofer, but to finely tune an IB woofer, bridging across 2 chnls of a full-range amp, will not always yield the best results. The low-pass fixed subsonic filter of most fill range amps can be too low, preventing the woofer from being driven/powered hard and allowing it to bottom/top out on excursion, when driven hard.
If your boat has the Fusion head unit, ill bet a dollar to a doughnut something off.
So sounds like what we need here is more data. I will dig into the boat and figure out what is connected to what. I do have the stock Fusion Head.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Do you have any tips for setting up the Fusion HU or HTX amp? I've noticed the FA sub is VERY sensitive to how much I play around with the zones and how much (or little) I add with the tower speakers. I know asking about you may setup a boat would be different than me because we would each hear or listen to different things but if you have a good, general all-around "baseline" tune to get us started that would be great.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Everyone's is a little different but here is mine...
Zone 1 inboats & sub, zone 2 is tower. For the most part I run them fairly equally.
Tone adjustments are minimal because the tuning is on the amp side.
Sub limit is right under distortion point.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...455e230dd6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...041f97c96e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6e6fcc4213.jpg
Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk
Such a tease! A;; that info, and the most impotent head unit setting is denied! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by RC_Hinojosa
I knew I forgot something.
Long press on the mute button engages Bass Boost[emoji769]. [emoji57]
Jk, under subwoofer settings go to Filter and see what hertz the filter is set to.
If it's set too low, the amp isn't even getting the input.
The amp should be handling the sub filter, not the hu.
Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk
I have never understood why these systems come poorly tuned from the factory.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My settings are pretty close to that. I can’t remember what hertz I have the filter set to. I want to say 80 or 120 hertz but I’ll double check next time I’m at the storage facility. I used to do car audio installations in a past lifetime long, long ago in a galaxy far away lol so tuning to squeeze the most out isn’t totally outside of my wheel house, it’s just been forever since I’ve dove deep into this stuff lol. It slowly comes back to me. Thanks for the pics!
I doubt it's really even setup from.the factory just hooked up and turned on for testing.Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
The supras have the JL dsp amps and have a tune loaded into them which isn't terrible bit still needs help to get the most out of it, in that case I think it's just an easy way to worry less about the stereo warranty by running it well below it's potential.
You definitely want to broadest range out of the head unit to the woofer amp. I think the RA70NSX offers 120Hz as the highest setting on the woofer chnl.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...58f05d9f8b.jpg
The sub filter was set at 55Hz. It can go to 160Hz.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thats a HUGE throttling of the woofer.
I just recently bought a Makai with the option J, $4,330 WS system. Rev 10s on tower and 6 inside speakers and a 10" sub in a ported box in front of the helm. Two WS amps also. I too was disappointed with the bass this system had. Yesterday, I discovered the hz on the bass filter was at 55. I changed it to 160, as you just showed and it made a huge difference. I still think there are some other settings that need adjustments, but I am not familiar with the Fusion RA70NSX. I have to say that head unit is not very user friendly for a first timer as far as controls go.
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
Just installed a JL 13” sub in a generic JL box that is tiny. Mounted up super high at the front of the helm opening. I mounted it up against the backrest for the bow. Kinda hard to explain so I will post pics. I wish I took some pics when I had it all apart. I powered it with a Clarion 600w rms mono block and it simply pounds. The entire boat vibrates. It is definitely hitting above its weight class.
I tried to take some pics to show were it is. So well hidden my kids couldn’t find it. I think it is using the helm area as a box to reinforce the bass. Not boomy though. Very smooth response with decent punch. Doesn’t go as low as the 15” in my theater but the entire system actually sounds better overall.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5a1aab6426.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can’t seem to load any more pics. I will post another if I can figure out Tapatalk lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6c959a57a6.jpg
It’s hard to see the sub here but you can see the breaker panel and distribution blocks to give an idea of where the sub mounted.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk