07 LSV lack of acceleration and just doesn't sound right (louder under way)

Hey Everyone,

I have a bit of a concern that I hope someone can help me with before I take it to the dealership.

Here is the long story:

Normal winterization - changed oil, filter, full tank of premium with fuel stabilizer in it. all went as normal as any other year.

Went to get it ready for the year and I did the following:
Changed the v-drive oil, as it has not been done is some time.
Changed the transmission oil, same thing.
Changed the fuel filter (was a PITA) but got it in place.
Started up no problem on the fake a lake, gauges all in correct spots for temps and pressures.

First outing 2 weeks ago, boat started right up at the launch, but under load, was a bit shaky and growled at about 3000 rpms. Drove it around a bit (2 hours) make sure everything else was working. But still growling and had a lack of acceleration.

Thought about the gas over the winter, maybe that was the issue.

Took it out again on Saturday. Same thing. Continued to run it for the day, not stalling, or gauges out of normal. Used up most of the gas, so I thought "ok. winter gas is gone, fresh gas will do the trick" Filled up with Premium at Costco, brought it home, ran it on the fake a lake. Purred like it normally does.

Went out tonight with the family, same thing happened. Lack of normal acceleration, growled and louder than last year, just didn't sound right. No gauges out of place, all in correct spot.

So, I am thinking........if all gauges are good, starts right up, but in gear it sounds totally different, is this a fuel line, injector issue? I am wondering if the fuel filter is not the correct one? Maybe put the old one back on? Fuel injector cleaner?

Sorry for the really long post. Just want to give all the information.

Any thoughts? You guys know so much about this stuff, and honestly, I just don't.

Thanks for reading and replying.

Richard.

Could be the fuel pump not delivering enough pressure.


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Did it ever get above 3000 RPM? Most ECM's limit the RPM if there is a code thrown. This will allow you to get back to shore and limit possible damage to the engine. DO you have a check engine light? Some systems will allow you to check for codes using that. You really need to scan the ECM and check for codes. Rinda Technologies makes scanners ($500.00) and simple code readers ($60.00).

Hey Guys.

I was wondering about the fuel pump, but wouldn't it starve gas all the time instead of just under load?

Yes I did get over 3000rpm. First outing, we got it to 38 mph. Boat runs, just takes time getting to speed, sound like it is working really hard and doesn't run the smooth. No, check engine light did not come on.

Its possibly a fuel pump/ regulator problem, but you would need to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail to see for sure. It could also be a faulty/clogged injector. Without the right diagnostic tools, you're just going to be throwing parts at it and hoping that fixes it. If you think its starving for fuel and it ran OK last year with the old fuel filter, you could always put that one back in and give it a try. Could you possibly have the filter installed incorrectly?

Hey,

That was going to be my first step is to put back the old fuel filter to see if that makes a difference.

Thank you.

Hey Guys

Just wondering do you or have you used a fuel injector cleaner? If so, what brand works best for these engines or is recommended?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kidder522

Hey Guys

Just wondering do you or have you used a fuel injector cleaner? If so, what brand works best for these engines or is recommended?

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I always run a can of Seafoam thru mine every couple of tanks.

just one can in one tank? I have a 40 gallon tank, so would one can do it?

It can treats 16 gallons. You could round up to 3 cans. I have a 34 gallon tank and I run 2 cans.

Awesome. Thanks.


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I know it is best to put it in before you fuel up. but can it be put in with 3/4 of a tank and then run it for 20 minutes?

Hey guys. First off. Thank you for all you insight into my issues.

I think I found the issue but will have to lake test to see if is it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4dbb8920b3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...33064f4ab4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...85c2bfd49f.jpg

Here is the new inline fuel filter I put in before all the issues. Tonight I took it out and put the original back in. The original has a screen in the middle of it where the new on (picture 2) has a metal block that the fuel must go around. I blew in both and there was a substantial difference in the air passage. So, I would think the fuel would have a tougher time to get around it.

Heading out to the lake this week to see if there is an improvement. I hope so.

I am going to put the sea foam in as well just to give it treatment.

Thanks guys. The best forum around.

Richard.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kidder522

Hey guys. First off. Thank you for all you insight into my issues.

I think I found the issue but will have to lake test to see if is it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4dbb8920b3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...33064f4ab4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...85c2bfd49f.jpg

Here is the new inline fuel filter I put in before all the issues. Tonight I took it out and put the original back in. The original has a screen in the middle of it where the new on (picture 2) has a metal block that the fuel must go around. I blew in both and there was a substantial difference in the air passage. So, I would think the fuel would have a tougher time to get around it.

Heading out to the lake this week to see if there is an improvement. I hope so.

I am going to put the sea foam in as well just to give it treatment.

Thanks guys. The best forum around.

Richard.


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It definitely has to be installed in the direction of the arrow. Good luck and hope that's the easy fix.

Yes. It was installed the correct way with the arrow pointing to the engine. Showed it to a boating buddy and he couldn’t believe it had that. He thought I should have been punched out to allow flow.


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NAPA 3299 is the filter I have always used with no issues. Mine was running rough 1st time out this season so new NAPA fuel filter, new plugs and cleaned the flame arrestor. Also checked the distributor cap and rotor for corrosion. I use marine fuel stabilizer when winterizing but added 1 can of Seafoam when doing my tune-up. Running great now. Plugs didn't look that bad but pretty sure that was my issue.

Well, crap. I was really hoping this was it. What were your spark plug #'s I cannot find the AC 41-932 at Napa and it does not give me the updated plug. Just in case the lake test does not go well.

NGK TR5 2238 Gap at .040".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kidder522

Well, crap. I was really hoping this was it. What were your spark plug #'s I cannot find the AC 41-932 at Napa and it does not give me the updated plug. Just in case the lake test does not go well.

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AC 41-932 came in mine when new but they have been discontinued for several years so I would say yours are due for replacement.

Thanks. I just took that model number out of the manual. Also my manual said 0.060 gap. I have had the boat for 5 years so I am not sure if the previous owner changed them or not. I have not put any new plugs in since I have had the boat because it was running perfect. Maybe this is a sign.


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That’s a massive plug gap (0.060”)


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.060” was for the OEM AC platinum plugs. I ran Denso TT platinum plugs in the past but they weren’t in stock locally so went with the NGK’s. Recommend gap for the Denso’s was .040” also.


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Hey Guys.

My mechanical inexperience is getting to me. So I called NAPA to get a plug number and nothing measured up to what you guys have indicated. So here is what I found.

AC 41-932 (indicated in my manual and is now discontinued ) = NGK 7164 Iridium plug Now 12.79 each. 0.060 gap
AC 41-993 (recommended by Martin Motor Sports Marine) = NGK 5599 Iridium Plug. 12.89 each. 0.060 gap

and VA LSV put in NGK 2238 in pretty much the same motor with a different gap and $3.47 each. 0.040 gap

So my question is what does the gap change do to an engine and what are the differences between iridium and non-iridium plugs.

Sorry about all these questions. If nothing else, I am learning a pile of new information from all of this. LOL..

Richard

There was a post a while back from Engine Nut at Indmar where he said only engines with cats need Iridum plugs. All others being carb or injected are fine with standard plugs.
I used the plug manufacturer's info to determine the gap. I have used Denso PT16TT platinum and now NGK 2238 TR5 standard plugs and both manufacturers recommended 0.040 gap. NGK lists a marine plug 4323 BR6FS for the Indmar 5.7 EFI with a gap of 0.045" but I couldn't find them locally so went with the 2238 TR5 as that is what SkiDim was showing as a direct replacement at the time but they now show the marine version on their website. Only difference is the marine plug is a little hotter heat range at 6 where the TR5 is heat range 5.
Glad you asked as it made me dig a little deeper. I'm going to stick with the TR5's as I need them quick but will most likely go with the BR6FS next time.

Hey. When you replaced your spark plugs, were they long ends or short ends. I am finding on the NGK web site that the 5.7L EFI and the 5.7L EFI H. O. are different plugs. I don't think it is H.O, but just wondering the length of the plugs that you put in.

Thank you.

I have some tune up parts from 2007 Supra 325 NotCat motor.

Sold the boat before I installed them.

I will post the link.


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Thank you. They plugs have long ends.

Did you sell all this stuff?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kidder522

Hey. When you replaced your spark plugs, were they long ends or short ends. I am finding on the NGK web site that the 5.7L EFI and the 5.7L EFI H. O. are different plugs. I don't think it is H.O, but just wondering the length of the plugs that you put in.

Thank you.

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NGK's website is a little confusing but 5.7L vortec engines take the longer plug. That would be the 3623 listed under 5.7L EFI H.O. on their site. Reach is .708" which is the same spec as the 2238.

Yes. That is what I was thinking. I am going to take one out tomorrow and inspect it, buy 8 and change them tomorrow. Check the cap and rotor as well as the wires to see if there are any spots I need to look at. Then to the water. If it runs without issues, my life will be better. If not, off to the dealer to spend some real cash.

Here is my update.

Changed the fuel filter back to the original one and changed the spark plugs. Took the boat out yesterday and it purrs like a kitten.

Thank you to all the insight, information and help in resolving my issue. I do think that the fuel filter was not providing enough fuel to the engine.

Happy boating everyone

Richard.


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