Adding amp/speakers to existing setup

Trying to get my ducks in a row b4 I pull the trigger on tower speakers. This is my first install of any type of audio equipment.

1. The boat was NOT "prewired for tower speakers with amp" I will be trying to figure out what wires do what in the tower. I have found two quick connect looking devices behind the observer's seat port side. I'm assuming these are for connection to the amp I will be adding? Any ideas on which color wires I should be looking for in the tower to connect speakers to?

2. When adding the amp I will need a fuse between the amp and battery on the hot side correct? Where will the wire from the amp to the head unit plug in at the head unit? I have a USB looking connection under the helm is this it?

3. Will it automatically pull up as zone 2 when I plug into the head unit or will something need to be done?

4. I like the ease of setting the gain on the kicker amp but I have heard that wetsound amps dont need to be set. Is this correct? Also is there an amp that can accomadate 6 incabin speakers a sub and 2 towers without sacrificing quality of a 2 amp setup? What is the amp that's reccomended for this?

I'm sure more questions will come up but this is all I can think of now. Thanks!

As to #1, to clearly state the boat was not pre-wired. So what the wires and colors you are asking about, would not be there. Not pre-wired, would mean one would need to fish wire through the tower from the amp area to the speaker wire holes, run amp power cables with circuit protection, turn-on circuit and signal cables.

#2 Yes, the new amp's main B+ needs proper circuit protection a its point of termination. Amperage and actual point of termination may very. Which wire from amp to head? Turn-on or RCA?

#3 Depends on the head unit, and where you connect the RCA. if you do not already see "Zone-2" in the volume menu, its not going to come up simply by making a connection.

#4. No, that is not correct about the gain. EVERY amp needs to have the gain set. An 8 chnl amp can, BUT, you are going to likely have low wattage available for a pair of tower speakers. Though I suggest at least 2 amps for 3 pair of in-boats, woofer and tower pods, id like to know what tower speakers, woofer and your goals, before making a final call.

Yes, you will have lots more questions. Bet advice, rely on your audio equipment source, for all the design, setup and tuning details. They should be able to help you with proper amp/driver paring, proper cabling and circuit protection, etc.

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Originally Posted by MLA

As to #1, to clearly state the boat was not pre-wired. So what the wires and colors you are asking about, would not be there. Not pre-wired, would mean one would need to fish wire through the tower from the amp area to the speaker wire holes, run amp power cables with circuit protection, turn-on circuit and signal cables.

#2 Yes, the new amp's main B+ needs proper circuit protection a its point of termination. Amperage and actual point of termination may very. Which wire from amp to head? Turn-on or RCA?

#3 Depends on the head unit, and where you connect the RCA. if you do not already see "Zone-2" in the volume menu, its not going to come up simply by making a connection.

#4. No, that is not correct about the gain. EVERY amp needs to have the gain set. An 8 chnl amp can, BUT, you are going to likely have low wattage available for a pair of tower speakers. Though I suggest at least 2 amps for 3 pair of in-boats, woofer and tower pods, id like to know what tower speakers, woofer and your goals, before making a final call.

Yes, you will have lots more questions. Bet advice, rely on your audio equipment source, for all the design, setup and tuning details. They should be able to help you with proper amp/driver paring, proper cabling and circuit protection, etc.

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Okay, got another question. I'm looking to add 2 rev 10's. I will need an amp to drive these. They are the only thing I ever plan to add. What size amp should I be looking at to drive these? Looking to stick with kicker or wet sound. Thanks!

For a single pair of Rev-10, The Wet Sounds Syn-DX4 is a great option. Best option is the SDX-2. Out of the Kicker line up, I would go with a pair of KXMA400.2 (1 for each pod), or the KXMA1200.2. The 2 chnl amps will allow for a 2nd pair ot be added. Wire for that the first time, and its nearly plug-n-play.

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Originally Posted by MLA

For a single pair of Rev-10, The Wet Sounds Syn-DX4 is a great option. Best option is the SDX-2. Out of the Kicker line up, I would go with a pair of KXMA400.2 (1 for each pod), or the KXMA1200.2. The 2 chnl amps will allow for a 2nd pair ot be added. Wire for that the first time, and its nearly plug-n-play.

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Sweet I will check those out thank you! Do you by chance know of any online audio retailers who are going to be running Black Friday specials or Cyber Monday?

Wet Sounds direct has 20% and free shipping, but I would also check with Earmark Marine in TX. They are an Authorized internet dealer and also support their customers after the sale. You get more then just the product you paid for.

Kicker is also offering some consumer level sales, but not sure of the specifics.

Ive tracked down the wires from the tower. Qiestions about the tower wires.
1. The wires I have traced down the port side end behind the seat right beside the Observer pull up back rest. They have grey Square quick connects on the end of two groups of four wires. Are there wire kits (female) that I can buy to connect to these? I know thats a terrible description but I'm assuming someone will know what I'm talking about.

2. The wire coming out of the tower for the speaker. I'm assuming that the speakers will have a clean pig tail coming out that I will do an end to end connection and tuck back into the tower?

Getting closer! Thanks!

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They have grey Square quick connects on the end of two groups of four wires

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IF these are the speaker wires, those connectors are for quick assembly at the factory when building the boat. The factory likely does not install the other half that runs from the base of the tower to the amp area, if the boat is not ordered with a tower speaker option. You could possibly get this harness with the pre-assembled connectors on it, but there is no need to incur that cost. The connector serves no purpose but for fast assembly down the line. In reality, there is a one in million need to ever "need" to make use of that disconnect again.

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I'm assuming that the speakers will have a clean pig tail coming out

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This would depend on the actual speaker model you choose.

Ive looked around online and found a similar looking connector I'll give it a shot. If this dosent work I'm assuming the thing to do would be to do a end to end splice connection? The location the wires are in will make it incredibly difficult to wire strip and splice

The speakers would be rev 10s

Your moomba dealer may be able to tell you what style connectors they are and the pins required.

Deutsch DT6-4S is the female connector you are looking for. There are many online vendors that will build you a harness or at minimum sell you the parts.
I’m highly curious what SC does for boats factory optioned with tower speakers. Part of me wants to believe they utilize the connectors but I wouldn’t be surprised if they hack the $5.00 connector off & crimp some $.05 butt’s in place.

Your exactly right. I finally found it the other night online. I found the pre wired connector on Amazon. Thank you for posting the part number!

Question regarding the battery to amp. I'm looking at an amp that has 3 -40 amp fuses built in.

1. Does this remove the need to have an external fuse between the amp and battery?

2. Their is already a fuse. (100amp) coming off the wire bank to batrery. If appropriately sized I assume this fuse covers everything down stream (both amps)?

3. Is the wire coming off the wire bank to the battery something that typically gets upsized when a second amp gets added?

Existing amp- kicker kxma800.5
Potential new amp- nvx vad 11005

Thanks!

1) no, and as noted earlier, you will not be connecting direct to the battery. Those fuses are for protecting the amp, not the supply cables.
2) if you are referring to the ANL style fuse that bridges from the ACC B+ cable to the amp wall accessory BUS?
3) If you are referring to the B+ that runs from the switch to the ANL fuse mounted on the amp wall? That wire is gauged for factory loads, with maybe a little to spare. They did not factory in customer installed options. Using any factory wiring or terminating to anything factory, you have to use your specific load values.

Thats a 5 chnl amp. Are there plans to make use of the woofer chnl? The factory amp is capable of 400W to a 2 ohm woofer. Factory woofer is a 4 ohm, so only receiving 200W. That amp is only going to deliver 250W rms to each Rev-10.

Curiosity....i Am running the kxma800.5 with 6 cabin speakers. What rms rating am I getting to each speaker (kicker 6.5) with this set up? Seems like it would be low..

The 800.5 will deliver 50W rms to a 4 ohm speaker. This is a good wattage for a average in-boat setup. You would have to nearly double the wattage to each speaker, to begin to hear an audible difference in volume.

id spend extra funds on upgrade speakers before I upgraded the wattage.

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Originally Posted by MLA

The 800.5 will deliver 50W rms to a 4 ohm speaker. This is a good wattage for a average in-boat setup. You would have to nearly double the wattage to each speaker, to begin to hear an audible difference in volume.

id spend extra funds on upgrade speakers before I upgraded the wattage.

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That's the plan after the tower is done is to upgrade to the revo 6.5. Now that I'm just beginning to put a little meaning to the output numbers on the amps I was curious if the amp I have will somewhat do the revo 6.5s justice Expecially since there's 6 of them.

I was looking at my current set up tonight and a noticed the "rem" wire connection. Is this something that I can splice into with a new amp? Also, this is a very vague description but there was a black wire the same size as the rem wire that was tied in with the main ground wire on the amp. What is it? I'm assuming it is necessary on the new amp so can I splice into this as well? (This is all factory installed)

I know these are super basics ignorant questions but I am learning tons as I began with zero knowledge of audio setup. You have been extremely helpful in this endeavor. I have also seen your name come up consistently on many others forums about audio with great advice. Thank you for the time you spend to respond.

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That's the plan after the tower is done is to upgrade to the revo 6.5. Now that I'm just beginning to put a little meaning to the output numbers on the amps I was curious if the amp I have will somewhat do the revo 6.5s justice Expecially since there's 6 of them.

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The OEM speaker uses a .5" hybrid "W" tweeter. The Revo uses a full dome 1" tweeter. This will be a noticeable different, even without a change in amp wattage.

From above:
"I was looking at my current set up tonight and a noticed the "rem" wire connection. Is this something that I can splice into with a new amp? Also, this is a very vague description but there was a black wire the same size as the rem wire that was tied in with the main ground wire on the amp. What is it? I'm assuming it is necessary on the new amp so can I splice into this as well? (This is all factory installed)"

MLA or someone with more knowledge than me can chime in about the remote wire. It is low amp signal so a simple splice is probably no problem but on my 16 Mojo I used a simple relay to have the remote wire trigger 2 different amps as a precaution. Also, I had the black wire you speak of left over at the end of my stereo system build (actually it was yellow/black striped) and although I couldn't find the purpose, it does need be grounded at the distro block with other grounds. At least that is what I remember.

I believe that black with a yellow stripe wire is a common/ground for the head unit to amp.

On this topic - anyone recall the length of RCA cables needed from the head unit to amp location on a Mojo?
I’m adding an amp & need another pair of rca’s. I hope a 17’ cable will do it.

I can't remember exactly what I ordered, but I think you'll need more than 17'. I'd go with 22 to 25' lengths to be safe.

I went with 25' and it was plenty. Not sure I had 8' left over tho. I would guess 20' would be as far as you could stretch it

I’ll order 23’ cables then. Much appreciated

Just in case anyone is searching for an answer

23’ RCA cables are just about perfect for a mojo when routed from the helm, around the bow & to the AMP racks.
I had about 2’ of excess & simply managed the excess wiring with a few zip ties.