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In 2017, my second summer with the boat, I got an overheat warning on my boat. I shut her down and took her to the dealer. Solution was it was low on coolant. Dealer added a gallon or so! and told me he let it run for an hour and never saw a leak. So the past 2 summers I keep a close eye on the coolant level. It “consumes” about 1 cup every 2 weeks or so. Is this normal? If it’s anything like my automobiles I never need to add coolant. What are others experiencing?
Quick addition to my thread. Owners manual says “ Check engine coolant “DAILY”! Failure to maintain the coolant at proper level can cause engine damage..... Does this imply Inmar knows these engines consume coolant??
You shouldn't be losing that much coolant, there has to be a leak somewhere. Do you have a heater? I think that's a common place to have a leak, and it would leak there even if you're not running the heater, the coolant is always circulating through it, at least that's my understanding.
Thanks for the suggestion! Looked at my heater box under seat on port side. 2 heater hoses enter the box and there was a puddle underneath. I’m going to tighten the clamps and see if that’s it. Unfortunately I already have the boat winterized so I can’t test it. Thanks again for the great idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by schwan
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRHRSH
I had a small leak on the heater pump housing, really hard to spot until it got really big, check the hoses and the bottom on the pump too.
I will! What do you mean by “ the bottom on the pump”?Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
Thanks
I had the same problem. Leak at the heater. Tightened the hose camp and it has been good all year.
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There's a small circulation pump, port side engine compartment near the back. Has 2 hoses on it to/from the heater.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRHRSH
Got it! So I would think that pump only runs when the heater switch is on, circulating coolant to the heater box. Makes sense since I had a lot of heater users last weekend, which explains the coolant drop. Thanks for the helpQuote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
Update on the coolant loss! I saw a puddle under the circulation pump for the heater, thanks to parrotthd for the tip. It’s mounted on the port side rear of the engine compartment. At first I thought it was the fittings and hose clamps which seemed loose. But after tightening and running the engine I saw a slow drip UNDER the pump. That’s where the impeller housing is so it looks like a pump failure. Dealer will warranty, BUT since it’s past 3 yrs. “parts only, no labor”. Well it’s a 15 minute job to replace so no big deal. As mentioned by Schwab the pump runs ALL the time, not just when the heater switch is turned on. I guess this is so you get instant heat. So this baby has been running for over 300 hrs. Just a caution to others to keep an eye on your coolant and if you are adding frequently....look here!
SHURFLO 94-800-00 Model 4008 Repair Parts-Complete Upper Housing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ4F4V2..._hcU7QPBPCXaJ7
Cheaper than buying a new pump.
Good idea! Thanks for the link. This one is under warranty, but I’ll keep that link for future failures.Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
I wonder if I could re-wire the circulating pump for the heater so I can control when the pump runs? I could use one of the extra switches provided on the dash. The only reason it runs all the time is to provide instant heat when the heater is turned on. But it wouldn’t take that long for the hot coolant to get to the heater box when the pump is turned on. And we use the heater very little so why should the pump be running continuously? Any thoughts?
Don't do that. The engine cooling system requires circulation of coolant through the heater loop. Turning the pump off will stop the flow of coolant through the heater loop and will likely cause an engine overheat.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRHRSH
Just seems like a poor design, this pump housing has cracked and recently started blowing fuses. Ive been running without it off and on, waiting for the season end to replace it. Not having issues with overheating rather we need heat!Quote:
Originally Posted by Engine Nut
I don’t believe that is true. When I ordered the boat the Heater was an option ( $800.00 one!) and all they do is create and extra loop of heater hose circulated by the pump. Then all those boats without a heater should overheat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Engine Nut
Boats that don't have a heater have a hose loop that connects the heater supply and return so there is always circulation through the system.
So ALL the boats have the circulating pump and a loop of heater hose, just in case people want to add a heater? It doesn’t seem that a loop of additional heater hose would add much cooling?Quote:
Originally Posted by Engine Nut
He works for indmar.. Lol.. My guess is it helps circulation from the head to the block.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRHRSH
Update, returned from the dealer today with a “ reflash” of my boat. Frozen hrs at 250 jumped to 396. I was provided with a new heater circulating pump and horn ( mine died). I am doing the labor as my warranty is parts only at this point. Dealer clarified that boats without the heater have a hose loop as Enginenut stated but don’t have a circulating pump. I’m still not sure how this loop enhances cooling. Looks like I’ll be replacing the circulating pump every 400 hrs. or so.